83 944: what was the OEM clutch setup?
#1
83 944: what was the OEM clutch setup?
What type of clutch would have come in a 1983 944 from the factory? Is it a solid or a rubber centered design? Curious how long an original clutch would hold up on an 83 944 that has very low miles (35K) that hasn't been driven hard. Would it wear out just from age and not miles (rubber center deteoriating, etc)? What might be the symptoms to look for other than slipping (which it is not doing)? I'm talking about the clutch/flywheel assembly itself, not the hydraulics.
#3
It's rubber centered. The rubber will dry out and crack with age. I replaced my original last year. When the center part goes there is a lot of runout (play) in the engagement. Clutch won't necessarily slip.
#5
I got 161K out of the rubber centered unit on my 83. There was still plenty of friction material on the disc when the rubber center failed. The first symptoms are increasing driveline play from throttle lift and acceleration. It might even sound like it's coming from the rear as the ring and pinion gets abused. Once the rubber really fails the steel tabs (limp-home mode) will make a loud metallic clunk until they shear off commpletely and you are stuck with no option other than a tow home or to a shop. You can check yours by putting your finger in the clutch inspection hole and feeling for rubber dust or chunks. At your mileage only heat and weather exposure would cause you an early failure. Until it feels funny I would just leave it alone.
#7
It may last a good while longer if driven gently - just don't count on it. If you are concerned about being stranded, it is more likely that you will get warning signs like lots of slop in the drive line, rattling noise under decceleration, difficult shifting (if rubber chunks wedge themselves between pressure plate and clutch disk and/or flywheel). The good news is that the rubber clutches do have a limp home mode if the rubber shears - 3 small metal tangs will still grab and transmit power. Some people report they have driven a long time like this but it is supposed to be bad for the transaxle due to increased vibration to the input shaft.
Trending Topics
#9
Rather then starting a new thread this one may be a good place to ask. Where is the inspection hole and does anyone know if you can get anything in there to look and see if you have a rubber center and what the condition of it is. I don’t know if any of the previous owners ever changed the clutch. I have no records and have not been able to talk to the previous owners. My car was a product of a divorce. I bought it from a guy who only had it for a month. He bought it from the wife in the divorce and wanted to turn it into a full fledge race car until he priced out what it would cost to have someone set it up like that for him. So he just turned around and sold it to me.
#12
Originally Posted by TheMAXX
Rather then starting a new thread this one may be a good place to ask. Where is the inspection hole and does anyone know if you can get anything in there to look and see if you have a rubber center and what the condition of it is.
My 85.5 had 118K on it when I bought it, the rubber centered clutch was also broke on it. That was attributed to the rather young PO that I bought the car from... Not only was the clutch crapped out, but so was #2 con rod bearing (found that out after driving the car less than 20 miles after purchase). The clutch is really easy to replace when the motor is out of the car, ask me how I know
#13
Another easy way to tell if the rubber center is bad: Jack up the car, put it in neutral. Remove the large rubber cover on the rear torque tube to transaxle housing. Grab the driveshaft at the coupling and try to twist it either way. Any movement more than a very little is too much. If the rubber is shot or cracked you can usually feel the limp-home tabs contacting when you rotate it. If it just moves a little then you going to have a failure sooner than later.