928 brake bias valve on 951 - can it cause rear brake drag?
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I've owned my car for 2 years and the previous owner had a 928 bias valve installed to give more power to the rear brakes, close to 50/50. He said this modification helped him brake later while at the track. When I jack the car up and spin the wheels, the front wheels spin freely but the rears require some force to turn. I'm trying to figure out if this is caused by the 928 bias valve, or if my rear calipers are sticking and need rebuild. But then, what would the odds be of both my rear calipers needing rebuild, while the fronts being fine? Should i removed this 928 bias valve? I mainly use the car for commuting, with a few autocrosses thrown in.
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
The bias valve seems to be pressurizing the rears even without the pedal down...you probably want to remove that.
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
The bias valve seems to be pressurizing the rears even without the pedal down...you probably want to remove that.
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By applimificating an extraneous use of the scientific method to extrapolate from the supplied data a hypothesis. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![](http://www.virgilanti.com/journal/images/genius2.jpg)
Or just think about it. The cars don't usually do that, do they? Now with a 928 valve it does. Hmmm what could the cause POSSIBLY be.
And please tell me you checked the e-brake.
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![](http://www.virgilanti.com/journal/images/genius2.jpg)
Or just think about it. The cars don't usually do that, do they? Now with a 928 valve it does. Hmmm what could the cause POSSIBLY be.
And please tell me you checked the e-brake.
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Well if you have the rear of the car up, I would think the rears would be harder to turn since you are spinning both sides (LSD test anyone?) vs simply spinning one wheel. That is not to say there is no drag in your rear caliper, but I do not think it due to the bias valve. I have a 33Bar bias valve in my car (I installed it) and the rears took the same effort to rotate before and after install.
HTH
HTH
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Unless the bias valve is broke or clogged in a weird way - it shouldnt hold pressure in the rear brake lines. You should check your EM brake and make sure it isnt dragging, before you pinpoint the bias valve as the perpatrator. Although if it's easy enough to take out - it certainly does get rid of one "hypothesis."
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#8
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A bias valve just sets the cross sectional area for hydraulic pressure going to the front, and to the rear brakes. When your foot is off the brake pedal, the valve isn't doing anything.
The real test to see if the brakes are dragging is to feel your wheel after driving for a while. If the wheel is much hotter than it should be, it means the brakes are dragging.
The real test to see if the brakes are dragging is to feel your wheel after driving for a while. If the wheel is much hotter than it should be, it means the brakes are dragging.
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It wont be the rear proportioning valve. The 928 valve is the 5/33 bar valve. Absolutely fine to leave it on the car. No way the brake system can retain pressure after the pedal is released. Look elsewhere for your problem.
If the brakes are actually hanging up, check the calipers.
If the brakes are actually hanging up, check the calipers.
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Originally Posted by Riff
Well if you have the rear of the car up, I would think the rears would be harder to turn since you are spinning both sides (LSD test anyone?) vs simply spinning one wheel. That is not to say there is no drag in your rear caliper, but I do not think it due to the bias valve. I have a 33Bar bias valve in my car (I installed it) and the rears took the same effort to rotate before and after install.
HTH
HTH
Crack a bleeder screw on the rear calipers; easy way to check if they are holding pressure.
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Have you checked the E brake yet? I haven't seen that question answered. This is common with a misadjusted e brake, or one that isn't fully disengaged due to...ummm...ahh... driver..um...error.
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Originally Posted by ehall
Have you checked the E brake yet? I haven't seen that question answered. This is common with a misadjusted e brake, or one that isn't fully disengaged due to...ummm...ahh... driver..um...error. ![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
![ducking](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/icon107.gif)
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Originally Posted by V2Rocket_aka944
By applimificating an extraneous use of the scientific method to extrapolate from the supplied data a hypothesis. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Or just think about it. The cars don't usually do that, do they? Now with a 928 valve it does. Hmmm what could the cause POSSIBLY be.
And please tell me you checked the e-brake.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Or just think about it. The cars don't usually do that, do they? Now with a 928 valve it does. Hmmm what could the cause POSSIBLY be.
And please tell me you checked the e-brake.
-Joel.
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Originally Posted by ZPmadA
I'm positive the e-brake was not on because I remember double checking the handle. I will check if its out of adjustment this afternoon while doing that caliper test.