cheapest paint? guards red
04-15-2007, 10:09 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by David Boutelle
all i can say is if a Maaco tipe paint job would make you happy then take your car there .it will be red! and it will be cheep! but it will not hold up to the weather very will .if you want your body guy to do the refinishing then i would go with a lower mid grade paint like limco #3 or duponts full thane the kit ,color, hardener , and reducer should cost about 150 dollars . when buying a paint job ,its like buying wine ,do you like you wine in a box or a good french wine?you still get drunk just one taste better . glasurit paints are all the same price whether its red , white , black , green ,ext. about 125 dollars a QT. it will hold up to the weather for about 10 years with a cheeper paints you might get 3 years . you get what you pay for!
where do I get this:
" limco #3 or duponts full thane"
04-18-2007, 08:33 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by David Boutelle
look in your phone book under auto body paint, equip, and supplies . also the person doing the work on your car should now were to get paint.
04-18-2007, 11:05 PM
#34
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ok first off , i get 20 to 30 off list from my jobber (paint store) because i own a shop and becouse , in business you mark up supplies . so that is what , i do pay for limco # 3 for a GAL. kit in red !you would pay as a custom 179. 28 if i was doing the job .but i only do custom work and would never do that kind of a job for the reasons why i replyed to before . i cant tell you what a jobber near you would charge for the same thing . if you cant spend 175 bucks on paint now then save money untill you can or get low grade limco #1 which off the top of my head would cost you as an end user some thing like 130.00 bucks . lad , i can not tell you what you are going to pay . you have to do the leg work and get your best price. i can only recommend what i would do.
04-19-2007, 11:17 AM
#35
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Originally Posted by alordofchaos
I have a red '86 - that's a single stage (no clear coat), right?
So - I should not spray any kind of a clear coat over it afterwards? Just wax?
I have a red '86 - that's a single stage (no clear coat), right?
So - I should not spray any kind of a clear coat over it afterwards? Just wax?
Originally Posted by Porschefile924
Definately DO NOT spray clear coat over a waxed surface...
<j/k>I meant, "So, I should not spray any kind of a clear coat over it after buffing it" - thanks for the advice,Dave & Geof, and the warning against being stupid (cause you never know
, stranger things have happened...)
04-20-2007, 08:26 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by 944J
I got dupont chromabase for $487 (enough to do the whole car). This is supposed to be the top of the line dupont paint.
04-21-2007, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Burma Shave
Chroma Premier is their top of the line(aside from their euro brands), but isn't worth the extra money as they cut back on the pigment to binder ratio shortly after it went to market. You can achieve similar results with chromabase by adding 1oz. of urethane catalyst per ready to spray quart of base coat. This helps with resistance to chipping and also metallics will lay down a little smoother. The trade off is the base will be a little gummy when it flashes so you can't nib trash before clearing or recoating. Your unused base will not keep as long either. Fwiw, I use DuPont's Chromasystem and love it.
I just got it because it wasn't that much more than "fullthane" which they said was mid-tier paint...
04-22-2007, 01:10 AM
#40
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944 J its a very good thing that you stepped up and got good paint ! what clear did you get ? I like duponts 7900s clear but all Duponts coatings are good . like burma shave states the cromma premier is duponts top of the line base . the premier covers 1/3 better its all the same tints (colors) but thay change ther balancer and binder and it makes it a higher solid paint . goes down nice ! I hope you plan to seal the car first , or you will use a lot more base color .Red is very transperent . for a cleaner paint job use a tack rag and tick off the car before you start start to spray . then tack off after you seal and each coat of base color , wate between coats untill you can tack off the car this is called flash time . DO NOT! try to tack off the clear coat ! after you srpay your first coat of clear wate untill you can touch the clear , thats on the masking tape ,you should leave a finger print and NO clear should be on your finger ,now its time for your next coat of clear. this helps in not getting runs . best of luck !
12-23-2017, 01:14 AM
#41
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I would have to disagree with the "shinier, lasts longer, more uv protection" statement. I painted cars for two years full time. I've seen a lot of base/clear cars from the 90's where paint under the clear has faded drastically in color, or clear has chipped off to oblivion. Yet My original single stage '87 944 buffed out to look Brand New... you can buff clear all day long but it won't bring that color back like single stage does. ( All it's really doing is cutting the top layer down to expose new paint) Maybe clears are getting better though... the best thing about clear is the ability to let pearl shine underneath to appear "deep". But as for a solid color with no pearls, I'm shocked at how good my single stage 30 year old Porsche looks..
