$50 DIY paint
#32
Originally Posted by genikz
I would use aersol paint for wheels. They even sell "wheel" paint at some autoparts stores.
#33
Originally Posted by SamGrant951
Yeah I know, just seems like this stuff would be a harder type of paint than aerosol wheel paint...just trying to talk myself out of powdercoat for a set of wheels I dont really care about is all..
I hear consistently good comments about Wurth wheel paint FWIW.
#35
Sam,
I was bored last weekend (waiting for other parts to arrive) so painted a set of scuffed-up phonies (track wheels) white. I used couple coats of the aerosol "wheel" paint and couple more coats of the clear stuff they sell - the wheels came out real nice. This was a one-weekend project. I'll take a pic tonight and post it.
I currently have a rear bumper that needs paint, so I might try to roll-on stuff to see how it comes-out. Sounds interesting.
Chip
I was bored last weekend (waiting for other parts to arrive) so painted a set of scuffed-up phonies (track wheels) white. I used couple coats of the aerosol "wheel" paint and couple more coats of the clear stuff they sell - the wheels came out real nice. This was a one-weekend project. I'll take a pic tonight and post it.
I currently have a rear bumper that needs paint, so I might try to roll-on stuff to see how it comes-out. Sounds interesting.
Chip
#36
A friend of mine (who is now a 944-Spec racer) did this $50 paint job on his 240sx and it turned out quite well. The paint is mostly self-levelling, so it ends up being pretty smooth, but it's going to try to run on curved surfaces, so you have to keep going over it with the roller. It's a little tedious because the paint is very thin, so you need to do a bunch of coats and baby-sit any runs on each one, and usually sand it slightly between coats. And as with any painting, it is vulnerable to crap floating around in the air... somehow he ended up with cat hair in his first few coats. At the very least, do it in a fairly clean area and spray the ground with water so that dust and stuff doesn't end up in the air.
#37
I use the Tremclad quite a bit for coating of railings, etc. First point, on bare steel use a primer to ensure good adhesion and let the primer dry at least 24 hours, longer if possible. Make sure the surface is degreased with mineral spirits, ie varisol. Like the man said thin coats, second coat can be an hour after the first, third should be after 24 hours. Don't put a laquer over top as it will wrinkle the enamel like crazy. I did the wheels on my car with a two part epoxy. The color was prepared by a custom paint store. I used a disposable sprayer which was a good idea because cleaning up after the epoxy was impossible.
#42
i just finished a rustoleum paint job on my 83' a few weeks ago, doesnt look great but it does look 1000% better than it did. Used Smoke Gray. I just put a coat of wax on the newly set paint. I'll post pictures and info soon.
edit* heres a picture i took after i had finished painting and wetsanding. I will take better picture with the final polishing/waxing tomorrow in less forgiving lighting.
edit* heres a picture i took after i had finished painting and wetsanding. I will take better picture with the final polishing/waxing tomorrow in less forgiving lighting.
Last edited by Steve 4001; 08-17-2007 at 04:19 AM.
#43
yeah no thanks- ive sprayed cars with appropriate enamel and i wont use that again either. There is a reason the whole world switched to eurethane paints- UV! I agree, if i had a beater and wanted to paint it and sell it or just whatever it could be interesting, but you wont catch me doing it.
lets see a car turn out like one of these w/ a roller....
lets see a car turn out like one of these w/ a roller....
#44
Originally Posted by Steve 4001
i just finished a rustoleum paint job on my 83' a few weeks ago, doesnt look great but it does look 1000% better than it did. Used Smoke Gray. I just put a coat of wax on the newly set paint. I'll post pictures and info soon.
edit* heres a picture i took after i had finished painting and wetsanding. I will take better picture with the final polishing/waxing tomorrow in less forgiving lighting.
edit* heres a picture i took after i had finished painting and wetsanding. I will take better picture with the final polishing/waxing tomorrow in less forgiving lighting.
#45
i used thinned Rustoleum (as detailed in the moparts thread) sprayed out of a black and decker cheapo paint sprayer. I definitely agree that this is absolutely no substitute for a real single stage and clear coat paint job. The car does not look rennlist Porsche enthusiast acceptable lol. As i did all the prep work there were times where I debated spending the extra cash for a good compressor, good gun, and better paint. But being a broke *** college student with a terrible looking car any improvement would have been acceptable.
The previous owner had the car cheaply resprayed before i bought it. Over time the paint started to chip and peel away. I was so busy working on mechanical problems and school any cosmetic issues got pushed to the back burner.
Here are pictures of the car before to show how terrible it looked:
The previous owner had the car cheaply resprayed before i bought it. Over time the paint started to chip and peel away. I was so busy working on mechanical problems and school any cosmetic issues got pushed to the back burner.
Here are pictures of the car before to show how terrible it looked: