carhopper

I finally got my 2.5" test pipe. Yes 2.5", it was only $325 from Pelican Parts. The car sounds very raspy now and I can hear the whine of the turbo. I cranked my boost from 13psi to 14psi and noticed a nice difference. When I tried 15psi, I didn't notice much so I put it back. I have read that the stock turbo and injectors won't produce much more power above 14psi. What do you guys think. I do have a dual port WG and performance bypass valve so it's holding boost pretty well.

WesM951

I don't have any expertise, but I'm running 15psi on stock injectors with a test pipe and APE Stage II chips. Heck its even super rich! The numbers are in my sig.

carhopper

Nice, I have almost the same setup. My RHP before the test pipe was 227hp. I haven't pulled apart the ECU to see what chips are installed if any. The previous owner said that he "thought" there was a chip set. I should check this before I go crazy with the boost.

FSAEracer03

I'm running stock turbo and injectors and have it set at 18-19psi peak, bleeding off to 14 at redline... it's pushing 300bhp and a peak torque close to 400ft-lb.

They can definitely make power past 14psi

95Juan

you need to be 100% sure that you have an aftermarket chipset if you're going to be running above stock boost.

if you havent blown up by now, i'd assume you are, but i'd find out sooner than later.

i'm running 16-17psi on 951Max chips, no cat, and a 3Bar FPR. boost should come on sooner and stay stronger with no cat in.




FSAE racer- what mods do you have to run that kind of setup? dyno charts? i'm not calling you out, i'm just curious.

Andial951

pics?

BKiller

I must be confused about what a test pipe is exactly. I thought it was simply a piece that replaced the Cat in the exhaust system... It must be much more than that for $325!!!

95Juan

the 951 market is small, and aftermarket parts makers are few and far between compared to jap imports and even 911's.

vendors can charge whatever the market will bear because there's really no competition......


which is why we pay like, 400 bucks for a chipset.

carhopper

$325 is for the cheapest pipe available. If you want a 3" stainless test pipe, they are 550-850 depending on the manufacturer.

KuHL 951

If you want to stay with 2.5" just take your cat pipe section into a shop and have V-bands welded outside the cat. Then have them make up a straight section to match the V-bands. It's sure cheaper than a real TP, you retain the SS construction, and makes it so much easier to swap in if you have smog inspection like we do. Most shops here won't do it on the car but they will if you bring the pipe in separate...legality thing I guess.

FSAEracer03

95Juan, it's a simple bolt-on car with a good motor. It has a test pipe, wrapped headers, a different (though non-beneficial) intake, chips, MBC, a 3bar FPR, and a shimmed wastegate. That's really all that effect the power.

Here's a dyno chart from a lower boost setting...


That's 285hp, and 367 ft-lbs with a 15% loss. I have a little more boost in there now.

Andial951

Steve,

Im trying to picture what your saying but Im having a hard time. You got a pic?

95Juan

i think what steve is picturing is just like any other V-band thing.

they cut off the flanges, and make the cat match V-bands instead.

then, they go and make a pipe that's as long as the cat for easy-in-easy-out.

right?

KuHL 951

You win the Silver Tuna. Just picture cutting, not torching, a stock cat off at the first outside welds. Have the flanges for a V-band clamp welded on to both ends of the cat and where the pipes were cut. You can leave the OE downpipe flange as is. Have the shop weld you a straight section to replace the cat with a V-band flange at each end. Remove 2 clamps and you can swap the cat with a straight section pretty quick.

WesM951

Guys,
This is a test pipe.