apierce918

hatch on the new car is leaking like a siv, and is in need of either A. a reseal, or B. a 968 hatch replacement... preferably B, but since they are hard to come by, I am going to reseal it, or try. and if i fail, replace it.

has anybody followed the write up on pelican parts?

any horror stories, dashes of hope, things to look out for?

thanks!

ehall

There is a good write up on Pelican about this, in the tech DIY area. I'm getting ready to do this as well. I also have the first part of a write up from the KCWS guys. It's a word doc I can send you. Other than not pulling a boneheaded dropping of the hatch, I really don't see what will be difficult about the job technically.

apierce918

yeah, i have the writeup from both, i did look in the search some i just wanted some more input from others that have tried following them. So far, sourcing them seems kinda steep, and worth it to try it first as long as i can get my car in the garage in case she is hatch-less for awhile

ehall

That's kinda my thoughts on it as well. If you can source a hatch, it always seems to be across the country, and can't be shipped, or is close and 1800 bucks. I just need the time and materials to do the job. I may pick up some of those big assed suction cup thingy's as well. If you do yours first, post up in this thread etc. I'll do the same. Maybe we can contribute some good info for other folks.
E

mbonner

Well I took my separeted 944 hatch to the local glass guys with a printed out plan from Paragon or who ever it was, and they put some sealant into the gap between the top of the hatch glass and the frame and it lasted about a week. My problem was the hatch shocks were not holding the hatch up, so I bought new ones, they are too much, and on closing the hatch, pulled the glass away from the top of the hatch. Right now I have a strip of duct tape across the top of the glass to prevent water getting in and it works 100% but looks like hell.
I was thinking of getting a 951, but with all the aggravation I've had with this 944, I think I'll buy a good Mazda RX7 Turbo II. I have a Mazda 85 GSLSE which is mildly tweaked and will run rings around the 83 944 I have and it has no issues. It's reliable! And cheap to maintain.! Just keeps zipping along, no problems like the 944 which costs like hell every time I turn around.
Mikie

yellowline

I had my local glass shop reseal my hatch, after I was impressed with the job they did with my windshield. I needed to adjust the fit of the hatch, but the adhesive has held for 6 months. It hasn't squeaked or rattled until recently (10 degree weather, fair enough)

I guess that route of a recommended local shop is hit-or-miss, but it's worth a try.

ehall

Obviously they didn't read the instructions or they would have removed the galss from the frame, ensured that the frame was straightened out, and clamped it for 24 hours while the sealant set. Did you actually read the instructions? lol

mbonner

I read the instructions, indeed, and handed a copy to the glass shop foreman, but I think the were worried they would break the glass if they removed it from the frame. Wrong shop I guess...
Mike

PorscheDoc

I keep talking about finishing the writeup and sealing another hatch, but I've had my hands full with a few other 944's right now. I am planning on doing this soon!

apierce918

its such a good write-up too.. its just ends at a critical point! unless you have a version that is further along then the frame and glass being cleaned and ready to go back together. even if it isnt a full write-up, a quicky on here with what sealants you used would be nice

PorscheDoc

The sealants are posted in the writeup

1. The "glue" to use is 3M "Window-Weld Primerless Super Fast Urethane Auto Glass Sealant", part #08609... comes in a cartridge gun tube of 10 fl. oz. One tube will do one hatch.
2. The primer for the hatch frame is 3M Super Fast Urethane Primer, Part #08608. Thoroughly cover the area to be glued with this stuff, and follow the directions as to temp, application and time.
3. Use 3M Glass Cleaner, part #08968 to clean the glass prior to priming it.
4. Prime the glass with 3M Super Fast Urethane Primer, part #08608. This provides for UV protection of the bond, which is most likely the reason why the bond failed in the first place.
5. Clean up using 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner (great for removing old decal and pinstriping glue residue, too)... part #08984 or 08986.