Supachink

Hey guys,

I recently began to continue work on a motor that my brother had been building to put in his 83, but since that shell left, i figured id replace my leaky 84 motor with the one that was being built. Pretty much everything is done with the exception of the timing and balance belts, and putting the manifolds back on, clutch and flywheel then dropping the motor in. my question is I began to follow the instruction on clarks garage for installing the timing belts and when i began to set the motor to TDC it would not move, im talking no budging feels like its stuck on something. If i loosen teh crank bolt, eveyrhting turns okay, but hte moment i begin to put any torque on the crank bolt it all locks up? This doesnt seem right to me? any clue what could be causing this problem or if its just normal and im overlooking something? Secondly does anyone have a diagram, not sure if its vaccum or cooling lines or both, but for the larger diameter hoses that run under the manifold and such, i replaced all of the small ones with the linsey kit, but the larger diameter ones are all garbeled together in a box and im not sure what connects to what.

Thanks,
Greg

Porsche-O-Phile

Flywheel lock? Car in gear?

PaulStewart

Be careful about turning the crank while the timing belt is off, you will bend valves.

The front pulley drives the oil pump, when you loosen the bolt, are you sure the crank is turning or just the pulley?

Techno Duck

There will be some resistance on the crank as you turn it due to the compression of the motor, take the spark plugs out and it will turn easily.

If its completley locked and wont turn, then i would make sure you dont have a flywheel lock in or anything binding on the flywheel.

What exactly was done to the motor during its rebuild?

PaulStewart

Once you free it up, take the plugs out and gently turn the crank so that all pistons are not at top dead center. (All four pistons must be part way down in their bores.) If you feel resistance, stop and turn the crank the other way.

Then set the camshaft timing.

Then gently turn the crank back to TDC again stopping if you feel resistance. (You want to turn it so that 1 and 4 move upwards and 2 and 3 move downwards.)

Install your flywheel lock and install the belts.

Supachink

motor is out of car on a stand, there is no flywheel lock. I was in process of installing timing belts, there are no plugs in the motor, its basically freshly rebuilt. I got an email that possibly one of the gears was installed backwards, because it turns fine when the crank bolt is not torqued down, but hte moment any pressure is put on to that crank bolt it all locks up and doesnt turn. And yes i am sure the entire crank is moving as the pistons are moving up and down and making compression.

As far as what was done, it was a motor out of a automatic car that my brother had traded. everything was pretty much resealed, and redone, the head was milled to be flat, and new valve guides were installed. did install a crankscaper, but i took the time to grind it down correctly to make sure the crank had clearances before putting the oil pan back on.

Airflite40

i say the crank scraper came loose.

how are you torquing the crank bolt with no lock?

Supachink

not full torque on the crank bolt... im saying whenever the crank bolt is tightented even the slightest it makes everything bind, i hightly doubt the crank scraper came loose, when the crank bolt is not in, everything turns freely as it should, when the outer pulley is not attached, just the inner pulley with teh crank bolt in and tight everythign still spins as it should. When the outer pulley is added on, and then the crank bolt is tightened, everything binds up.... it really makes no sense in my mind.

Greg

Ed 944T

When putting the cam tower on a engine, I first make sure that both the crank and the cam tower are at TDC. If this isn't done when mounting the cam tower, it isn't very hard to bend valves, as a matter of fact, it is almost guaranteed.

If you didn't set everything up to TDC first before assembly, you may have found your problem.... Hope this is not so...

75ohm

You've got to use a flywheel lock and you have about 1 tooth of wiggle room on the cam pulley... but anything more than that and you're asking for it...

75ohm

You have anything out of order? https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/256181-help-with-the-ballance-drive-gear.html

Supachink

The motor was set to top dead center when it was put together and the cam tower was installed. Everything was done following steps from clarks garage as per spec and things of that nature. Right now its just that when the oil pump pulley is off of the crank, and the bolt is in and tightened past hand tight, it all spins correctly and everything moves as it should. When the oil pump pulley is added on, and the crank bolt is again tightented past hand tight, everything ceases to move. so the problem lies somewhere witin the crank and oil pump pulley. Someone did mention to me that i may have put the small pulley in that rests behind the oil pump pulley in backwards? Im not sure, i have to swing by and look at the motor tonight and see if that is the case, but how would i tell?

Thanks for everyones help, i really appreciate how kind everyone on this board is,
Greg

Supachink

are the 4th and the 5th picture down the crank gear? If so is that the correct way to install the crank gear, with the flat (lol i know both sides are flat) umm larger side facing out? I think i may have installed it incorrectly. pictures coming soon. . .

thanks

75ohm

Will wait for the pix!

Supachink

here are the pictures, im pretty sure that it is installed backwards now, but i just need soemone else to tell me it is before i go pulling it off.

Greg