Clearcoat repair?
11-27-2006, 12:11 PM
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Clearcoat repair?
I have a feeling that the answer to this is that I need a new paintjob, but I figured I'd ask anyway...
My '86 944 has large areas (such as the entire roof and other approx. 1 foot by 2 foot sections) where the clear coat is gone. The paint isn't in bad shape, but it's totally flat.
Is there any way to re-apply the clearcoat in a way that will look halfway decent? I've seen cans of spray-on clear coat at the parts store, but it was hard to tell if it could be used to repair large areas or if it's just intended for applying to a fresh paint job.
It doesn't need to look great, but I'd like to get a little of that shine back...
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Jeff
My '86 944 has large areas (such as the entire roof and other approx. 1 foot by 2 foot sections) where the clear coat is gone. The paint isn't in bad shape, but it's totally flat.
Is there any way to re-apply the clearcoat in a way that will look halfway decent? I've seen cans of spray-on clear coat at the parts store, but it was hard to tell if it could be used to repair large areas or if it's just intended for applying to a fresh paint job.
It doesn't need to look great, but I'd like to get a little of that shine back...
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
Jeff
11-27-2006, 01:00 PM
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What color is your car? My understanding is that most of the "basic" (non-metallic) colors are single-stage types with integral clearcoats. The metallic colors have a seperate clear, which can fail independently of the base coat (I have this problem on my '85 right now).
The correct solution is (unfortunately) to respray the entire car on a two-stage setup. If the clear is losing adhesion in one area, you can bet it's going to lose it soon in other areas, so best to have the whole thing redone at once.
If your car is a base color like guards red or alpine white or one of the non-metallic colors with a single-stage integral clearcoat, you can probably just color-match and redo the panel in question. Are you sure it's a clearcoat failure and not an oxidization issue?
The correct solution is (unfortunately) to respray the entire car on a two-stage setup. If the clear is losing adhesion in one area, you can bet it's going to lose it soon in other areas, so best to have the whole thing redone at once.
If your car is a base color like guards red or alpine white or one of the non-metallic colors with a single-stage integral clearcoat, you can probably just color-match and redo the panel in question. Are you sure it's a clearcoat failure and not an oxidization issue?
11-27-2006, 01:39 PM
#6
Mine did the same thing - after 20 years it happens. I have a Ruby red metallic 84, which was garaged most of its life. I'm just going to have the car repainted, but I have thought of just re-clearing those areas. the problem is the clear on mine is just almost like a powder that will come off on your hand if you wipe it across the area.
11-27-2006, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by xsboost90
did it flake off or is it just faded? If its faded you may be able to buff it out. If its flaking- yeah time for paint.
BTW, It's a medium blue color (not sure what the official name is)...
The clear coat seems pretty durable where it's still on... Do you guys think it would look like total crap if I just sprayed on another layer of clear?
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11-27-2006, 03:06 PM
#8
Three Wheelin'
Yeah, I wanted to see if it was a buffable single stage...but that's clearcoat failure. i wouldn't clear individual areas, I don't think it would match up well, and it may be more of a pain when going to repaint. Good luck with it,
Steve
Steve
11-27-2006, 05:32 PM
#10
Nordschleife Master
It really does depend on the condition of the paint. If the paint is looking pretty bad then a new paint job might be in order. Do a 4 stage on it (clay, cleaner, polish, wax). If it comes out looking good afterwards you could respray just the roof if you don't have the $$ for the whole car right away. Normally if your roof is bad then there are other areas like the hood that could use attention.
Last edited by Keithr726; 11-27-2006 at 09:37 PM.
11-27-2006, 08:09 PM
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Hey;
Anytime clear peels off, the whole thing needs redoing. Simply spraying clear over something will just give you a different type of ugly.
If you want it to look like it is supposed to, it has to be resprayed.
Anytime clear peels off, the whole thing needs redoing. Simply spraying clear over something will just give you a different type of ugly.
If you want it to look like it is supposed to, it has to be resprayed.
11-27-2006, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by RedlineMan
Hey;
Anytime clear peels off, the whole thing needs redoing. Simply spraying clear over something will just give you a different type of ugly.
If you want it to look like it is supposed to, it has to be resprayed.
Anytime clear peels off, the whole thing needs redoing. Simply spraying clear over something will just give you a different type of ugly.
If you want it to look like it is supposed to, it has to be resprayed.
11-28-2006, 09:51 AM
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the clear on my linned 89 is cracking. I showed it to our regions concours chairman at an autox a few weeks back. he thought it was from a car wash. then he saw it was all over. from ten feet the car looks great.
hey DanXS, if I come out to florence for a week and promise to help every evening from say 4:30 to 11:30 pm how much for a quickie respray? i wonder if the mileage reimbursement money will cover the materials? I wonder if it will be dry for the 700 mile ride home!
hey DanXS, if I come out to florence for a week and promise to help every evening from say 4:30 to 11:30 pm how much for a quickie respray? i wonder if the mileage reimbursement money will cover the materials? I wonder if it will be dry for the 700 mile ride home!
11-28-2006, 12:23 PM
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I have those same fine scratches everywhere also. One detailer told me is was under the clearcoat and cracking of the basecoat and someone else told me that was unlikely if it is the original paint (which I have).