xsboost90

i wear a 3m disposable paint mask - good for 15hrs booth time - i dont wear eye protection though i prob. should.

The time between coats shouldnt be looked at in time- i should be recoated when the first layer is flashed off- or dry to the touch- if it takes along time then you know you are using to warm a reducer. I love painting w/ mid temp activators on hot days when it flashed within a couple minutes- awsome! You dont need to sand between coats, i do because im a perfectionist - or i messed something up- dont wait more than eight hours to put the next coat on or youlll risk paint flaking down the road. The can says closer to 24hours but trust me- 8 hours tops.

NeoRules

AWESOME answers you guys ROCK...
I may have to create a painting powerpoint after this LOL...
Painting 101 for Porsche Owners....

500

I have generally heard that extending the flash time a little does not cause any heartache. Too little flash time, or too heavy a coat, can cause solvent pop.

I use a forced air system (Neoterik) with a full hood and 50 ft. hose. It is the safest option, although many people seem to do just fine with a good (i.e. new) respirator. I also use a 3M respirator under my hood as a back up. The fresh air system was only a few hundred bucks IIRC. Definitely worth it for my own peace of mind.

NeoRules

What is the best way to see those imperfections that need wet sanding in the color coat?
I tried looking from every angle but until I got outside in sunlight and stood at an angle did the scrub stuff show up.....
Is there a trick to holding a light? Or the type of light (hand held flourescent vs halagon)?

xsboost90

floresent lights usually show the most flaws- or natural light. I was watching a ding doctor guy once removing some dings and he took a large board and propped it up on a ladder next to the car- the reflection of the color of the board made things easier to see. The color coat just put your nose to it and get any dirt/ sand lines etc out best you can...

NeoRules

Cool.. I will go get another flourescent drop light and try that...
Thanks Again dor all ya'alls help

Mighty Shilling

it's been my experience, and it seems that you're understanding this too, that with paint, you've gotta let it "flash" for 10-15 minutes depending on the temp. before you lay down a second coat. it also seems to me that the fisheyes you're getting may be caused by contamination. if there was dust in the air, and it landed on the setting paint, that could be the cause...

but I'm no pro-painter. anywho, for protection, I used one of those nose-mouth masks that's held on by a rubber strap... at first I was goin w/o a mask... 2 breaths and my nose started bleeding (or it was the red paint and it got up my nose...and burned a hell of a lot) but yeah...a respirator is a DAMN good thing.

Kevin Michael

Usually these craters or fisheyes are water contamination. It is rare dust would do it. Dust or dirt in your clear is not that big a deal because all good paintjobs should be wetsanded and buffed. These contaminants sand right out. It will make your paint look very dull, but wit will come back up with proper compound. I use 3m heavy cut and follow with fine, then I buff the hell out of it with 3m's new Ultrafina. Makes a relatively bad job very very nice.

xsboost90

usually fisheyes are caused by oils or petroleum substances- bodyshops wont let you have wd40 within a hundred yards usually if they do any type of paint work. I had one fishey on a fender once, because i had a kerosene heater sitting in the corner, covered up- not running - it had been there for some time. Just that one fender nearest to the kerosene fisheyed. Water will do it too if you have small droplets coming through the gun- looks somewhat different though- best thing to do w/ those is let the paint dry, wipe them off, wetsand and reshoot.

NeoRules

Ahhhhhh So perhaps the milling machine being so close with all it's oily stuff might have caused it....(I use kerosene and other stuff to mill aluminum)
Strange that the stuff should get airborne but hey weirder stuff has happened...
I suspect I need a better water seperator... Even with one in the system I saw water mist come out the hose when I first used it this week.
Maybe I can get one that mounts closer to the gun or I could try and purge the hose before painting...
Hmmmmm....

Matt Romanowski

They make little plastic orange filters that you mount right on the gun.