Planning my first intensive wrench job... ever.
#1
The Impaler
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Planning my first intensive wrench job... ever.
Ok, so I have decided that this winter I would like to do a teardown of my engine and replace all the old seals and generally get to know my car better than I do now. I need advice as to where to start and what to do. I want to learn how to do belt tensioning while im there, but im sure there are plenty of things that I could learn, and problems I could prevent while I do this. Suggestions?
Also, if anyone in this area would like to lend me a hand I'd be willing to come give you a hand with your car anytime as payment.
Also, if anyone in this area would like to lend me a hand I'd be willing to come give you a hand with your car anytime as payment.
#5
RL Community Team
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I'm not in your area, but I can give you an idea of what you'll be getting into. Without getting into too much detail, this is how the typical engine-front job goes. You start by wanted to "do the belts" then you're told you'd be crazy if you didn't change the water pump at the same time. Then while you have the rear belt cover off and you get the water pump off, you've done all the work to access all the engine seals. So why not change them too?
I've only done this 3 times... only... but on a 944 and 968, not a 951. Again, not to go into too much detail (you said you'd do this in the winter, so no sense in getting you overwhelmed), just take a look at your engine. See where the #1 intake header bolts to the block? Everything between that and the radiator will need to come off. It's not that hard, and shouldn't take that long except if it's your first time.
Tips: make sure you have (or borrow) a flywheel lock and a GOOD cheesehead tool (for the cam sprocket bolt). Put parts and bolts in LABELED bags as you take them apart, and take digital pics as you go so you can reference them if you forget something. When you're done, you will be so happy with yourself and with your car. And you'll trust your car more.
I've only done this 3 times... only... but on a 944 and 968, not a 951. Again, not to go into too much detail (you said you'd do this in the winter, so no sense in getting you overwhelmed), just take a look at your engine. See where the #1 intake header bolts to the block? Everything between that and the radiator will need to come off. It's not that hard, and shouldn't take that long except if it's your first time.
Tips: make sure you have (or borrow) a flywheel lock and a GOOD cheesehead tool (for the cam sprocket bolt). Put parts and bolts in LABELED bags as you take them apart, and take digital pics as you go so you can reference them if you forget something. When you're done, you will be so happy with yourself and with your car. And you'll trust your car more.
#7
The Impaler
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice! Also how hard is the 02 sensor? im sure that I need it worse than I think.
I want to reseal the necessaries, and get the whole thing CLEAN. I mean spotless! Are there any parts I should change that might not be new yet at 100k? In my time underneath her I have noticed just general disrepair of many wires (most either out, or in the process of coming of of their rubber tubing) that I would also like to address.
I want to reseal the necessaries, and get the whole thing CLEAN. I mean spotless! Are there any parts I should change that might not be new yet at 100k? In my time underneath her I have noticed just general disrepair of many wires (most either out, or in the process of coming of of their rubber tubing) that I would also like to address.
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#8
Defending the Border
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Rest In Peace
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Rest In Peace
Most usefull tool under a Turbo hood: 17deg reversable gear wrenches, yep, the kind with the reversing lever. Flex style heads would be a bonus.
Expect to have to deal with at least two snapped/stripped bolts.
Start buying parts now.
Expect to have to deal with at least two snapped/stripped bolts.
Start buying parts now.
#9
Race Director
do you have 1500 for parts?
I am planning a rebuid of my Turbo S motor one of these days and figure it will cost me 2.3k just for parts (that does include shocks however).
PS... I have done 3 NA motors, but this will be my first Turbo. Hell once the turbo is off they are really the same thing. Advice. 2 things
1) get a factory manual
2) Don't force anything... if it does not feel/appear right it may not be and forcing it will probably result in some really expensive problem to fix.
I am planning a rebuid of my Turbo S motor one of these days and figure it will cost me 2.3k just for parts (that does include shocks however).
PS... I have done 3 NA motors, but this will be my first Turbo. Hell once the turbo is off they are really the same thing. Advice. 2 things
1) get a factory manual
2) Don't force anything... if it does not feel/appear right it may not be and forcing it will probably result in some really expensive problem to fix.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by FRporscheman
I'm not in your area, but I can give you an idea of what you'll be getting into. Without getting into too much detail, this is how the typical engine-front job goes. You start by wanted to "do the belts" then you're told you'd be crazy if you didn't change the water pump at the same time. Then while you have the rear belt cover off and you get the water pump off, you've done all the work to access all the engine seals. So why not change them too?
I've only done this 3 times... only... but on a 944 and 968, not a 951. Again, not to go into too much detail (you said you'd do this in the winter, so no sense in getting you overwhelmed), just take a look at your engine. See where the #1 intake header bolts to the block? Everything between that and the radiator will need to come off. It's not that hard, and shouldn't take that long except if it's your first time.
Tips: make sure you have (or borrow) a flywheel lock and a GOOD cheesehead tool (for the cam sprocket bolt). Put parts and bolts in LABELED bags as you take them apart, and take digital pics as you go so you can reference them if you forget something. When you're done, you will be so happy with yourself and with your car. And you'll trust your car more.
I've only done this 3 times... only... but on a 944 and 968, not a 951. Again, not to go into too much detail (you said you'd do this in the winter, so no sense in getting you overwhelmed), just take a look at your engine. See where the #1 intake header bolts to the block? Everything between that and the radiator will need to come off. It's not that hard, and shouldn't take that long except if it's your first time.
Tips: make sure you have (or borrow) a flywheel lock and a GOOD cheesehead tool (for the cam sprocket bolt). Put parts and bolts in LABELED bags as you take them apart, and take digital pics as you go so you can reference them if you forget something. When you're done, you will be so happy with yourself and with your car. And you'll trust your car more.
#12
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2003
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o2 sensor is a piece of cake..if it's not rusted in place. I changed mine in ~20 min including splicing the new generic one into the old harness. If it's rusted in place it could take a while to break it free, so times may vary.
#13
Addict
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My three pieces of hard won advise when taking on a project like this:
1. Be highly, over the top, completely **** about putting fasteners into labelled zip-loc bags. Every small sub-assembly get its own bag. There's nothing more frustrating than ending up with extra nuts, bolts and screws.
2. Give yourself plenty of time to get this done. When you start feeling that angry, frustrated, where the heck did I put my BF hammer feeling...just walk away. Much better to calm down, think it through and do it right the first time than to break a bolt or a part.
3. Until you have bled, the car gods will not be satisfied. When you bang your knuckles and start to bleed, don't get angry, be happy knowing that your project can be completed succesfully now that the gods are appeased.
Oh, and like always, Rennlist is your best friend. If you get stuck, just ask, someone here has been there and done that. Pics are always helpful and I find humbly asking for help to be far more successful than demanding answers from this esteemed group of folks. (Not saying that you have, just a word to the wise).
Enjoy!
1. Be highly, over the top, completely **** about putting fasteners into labelled zip-loc bags. Every small sub-assembly get its own bag. There's nothing more frustrating than ending up with extra nuts, bolts and screws.
2. Give yourself plenty of time to get this done. When you start feeling that angry, frustrated, where the heck did I put my BF hammer feeling...just walk away. Much better to calm down, think it through and do it right the first time than to break a bolt or a part.
3. Until you have bled, the car gods will not be satisfied. When you bang your knuckles and start to bleed, don't get angry, be happy knowing that your project can be completed succesfully now that the gods are appeased.
Oh, and like always, Rennlist is your best friend. If you get stuck, just ask, someone here has been there and done that. Pics are always helpful and I find humbly asking for help to be far more successful than demanding answers from this esteemed group of folks. (Not saying that you have, just a word to the wise).
Enjoy!
#14
Have spare water pump bolts in case they are corroded. Anti-seize all the water pump bolts before putting them back in. Have a set of left hand drill bits handy (see last post on snapped water pump bolt).
#15
The Impaler
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the tips! I'm entering the project with about a 2,000$ budget for parts, and im allotting myself all winter to finish it, so I don't think either of those will be a problem. Should I try and find someone to help me do my timing belt since its my first try?