Imo000

Is there actually anything wrong with the engine right now? If you only want to take it a part to learn then don’t do it on a good engine. Since you never done anything like this before, I can understand the eagerness to learn, but that can wear off really fast as soon as an expensive rookie mistake is made. Generally things go wrong all the time so prepare to have this project extended to more than one winter. I would start with small project first (brakes, shocks, exhaust, etc.) then as you become more knowledgeable, switch to tasks that are a little more difficult. As a first ever project, I wouldn’t go head first into a complete engine rebuild.

cruise98

If the engine is healthy, but just leaks, i would just reseal it. Clean it first and try to pinpoint where the leaks are, or you will spend a lot of time and money for no reason. The belts and front seals are the primary sources of concern and oil slicks with these cars. Oh yes, power steering leaks too, but that is a subject for another post. Here is my constantly evolving parts list for reference:

Front Engine re-seal parts list for 1987 and later 8 valve 2.5 liter engines


Camshaft

1 each O-ring 999.701.602.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.045.00
1 each O-ring (flat mylar washer) 944.105.321.00
1 each Spacer 928.105.139.04
1 each Seal 999.113.349.40
1 each Bolt (optional) 999.510.022.08
1 each Toothed roller 944.105.631.04
1 each Smooth roller 944.105.241.03
1 each Rubber seal 928.105.184.00


Crankshaft

1 each Seal 999.113.331.50
1 each Sleeve (oil pump drive) 944.107.161.02
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
1 each Woodruff key (optional) 900.117.036.00


Balance shafts

1 each Seal (upper, cw rotation) 999.113.282.40
1 each Seal (lower, ccw rotation) 999.113.281.40
2 each Spacer 928.105.139.02
2 each O-ring (same as cam) 944.105.321.00
2 each O-ring 999.701.652.40
2 each Woodruff key (optional) N 012.708.2
1 each Tensioner roller 944.102.025.07
1 each Smooth roller 944.102.277.06
2 each Locknuts N .022.149.0
2 each Washers N .011.527.12

Water pump

1 each Water Pump 951.106.021.10
1 each Water Pump Gasket 944.106.132.04
1 each Block off plate (NA only) 944.106.313.00
1 each O-ring 999.707.283.40
2 each Bolt 6 x 20mm (optional) N .014.704.1
2 each Washer (optional) N .011.524.7
1 each Thermostat 944.106.019.00
1 each Support Washer 900.234.160.00
1 each T-stat O-ring 944.106.929.08 or
944.106.929.05
The two items below are only required if the car has never been updated or the parts are damaged or missing
1 each Guard rail (for updated pump) 944.105.210.01
2 each Lock nuts (for guard rail) 999.084.092.02

Spacers and oil pump sleeves should be replaced if they have wear grooves, or burrs which could damage a new seal. Use some fine grade scotch brite to clean up the old ones, but replace them if in doubt. The front crank seal is difficult to install perfectly. I use an old crank gear and oil pump sleeve that I honed the center bore of, and use these two with the crank bolt to press the seal in squarely until flush with the oil pump face. The balance shaft front housings must be removed to properly reseal them.
Oil seals and o–rings must be thoroughly lubricated before installation. I prefer engine oil on seals, squirt some around the inside lip and the area where the spring is, and silicone paste for o-rings (engine oil works too).

Lorax

The engine is very solid as it is... That's something I will take some time to think about.

mwc951

I regret not replacing EVERY cooling system hose when I had the top & front of my engine apart.