Steering rack rebuild
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Looks like I am going to rebuild by steering rack. Do I need any special tools to do this? Especially to get the new seals to fit correctly. This will be my biggest adventure yet on my 87' 944. Any hard lessons learned you can offer?
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Its like an initiation, painful but rewarding...;]
Some lessons...
====== Ten Things to Know before Attempting to Reseal Your Steering Rack =====
1) It is moderately difficult to get the rack out of the car and this provides potential for a fair amount of exasperation. Its even worse on the turbos. Even if things go very well, it will take over an hour just for removal. Another hour (plus) to get the rack re-installed. Expect to double this time if you haven't done it before. yes, there are people that can do if faster.
2) Unless you have a hydraulic test stand, you'll have to re-install the rack in order to test for leaks and to make sure the rack works. If problems arise, you may have to remove it a second time to correct. This sucketh greatly.
3) Its possible that once you get the rack apart, you will find that you need parts, part that are not included in your reseal kit. ZF, (a German company with a long name) makes the rack and pump for our cars. ZF will not deal with anyone other than Porsche dealers for mini-parts. This means that your source for parts is very limited. No, the popular reseal kits that are currently on the market do not include all of the little parts. Yes, extracting those parts is needed to do a reseal and yes, extraction often damages them.
4) The new seals are delicate and can be easily damaged during installation, ordering replacements will postpone re-assembly.
5) Some tools are needed, a clean place to work, a way to clean up the rack and parts, some sort of vice, and a variety of sockets, extensions and tools to replace the seals.
6) Some machine work is needed to polish the main shaft. If the main shaft is not defect free, your reseal will probably last about a month.
7) It is easy to make mistakes in inspecting/reassembling the rack. Mistakes cost time and money.
8) There is a chance that you will need to have the steering re-aligned after reinstalling the rack. There is a very good chance that your steerling wheel will not be centered and will require an additional adjustment.
9) With so many law suits over the past few years, it is difficult to find people willing to refit hydraulic hoses. Any parts purchased from the dealer will be expensive.
10) Steering racks are a relatively simple mechanism but one which relies on hydraulic pressure. Many "reseals" fail because problems with particulate contamination are not corrected. This is one reason that even "professionally rebuilt" racks are warranted for only 12 months.
=====================================================
More here...Bruce
Some lessons...
====== Ten Things to Know before Attempting to Reseal Your Steering Rack =====
1) It is moderately difficult to get the rack out of the car and this provides potential for a fair amount of exasperation. Its even worse on the turbos. Even if things go very well, it will take over an hour just for removal. Another hour (plus) to get the rack re-installed. Expect to double this time if you haven't done it before. yes, there are people that can do if faster.
2) Unless you have a hydraulic test stand, you'll have to re-install the rack in order to test for leaks and to make sure the rack works. If problems arise, you may have to remove it a second time to correct. This sucketh greatly.
3) Its possible that once you get the rack apart, you will find that you need parts, part that are not included in your reseal kit. ZF, (a German company with a long name) makes the rack and pump for our cars. ZF will not deal with anyone other than Porsche dealers for mini-parts. This means that your source for parts is very limited. No, the popular reseal kits that are currently on the market do not include all of the little parts. Yes, extracting those parts is needed to do a reseal and yes, extraction often damages them.
4) The new seals are delicate and can be easily damaged during installation, ordering replacements will postpone re-assembly.
5) Some tools are needed, a clean place to work, a way to clean up the rack and parts, some sort of vice, and a variety of sockets, extensions and tools to replace the seals.
6) Some machine work is needed to polish the main shaft. If the main shaft is not defect free, your reseal will probably last about a month.
7) It is easy to make mistakes in inspecting/reassembling the rack. Mistakes cost time and money.
8) There is a chance that you will need to have the steering re-aligned after reinstalling the rack. There is a very good chance that your steerling wheel will not be centered and will require an additional adjustment.
9) With so many law suits over the past few years, it is difficult to find people willing to refit hydraulic hoses. Any parts purchased from the dealer will be expensive.
10) Steering racks are a relatively simple mechanism but one which relies on hydraulic pressure. Many "reseals" fail because problems with particulate contamination are not corrected. This is one reason that even "professionally rebuilt" racks are warranted for only 12 months.
=====================================================
More here...Bruce
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Bruce,
Thanks for the awesome reply. I may rethink the rebuild myself. Looks like no room for any area but a lot of opportunity for frustration. What do you think about buying a rebuilt rack??
Derek
Thanks for the awesome reply. I may rethink the rebuild myself. Looks like no room for any area but a lot of opportunity for frustration. What do you think about buying a rebuilt rack??
Derek
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I think it was Zims that someone mentioned a few months back as having a pretty good deal - Sorry I don't remember the details but thought it was a pretty good at something like $250. I'm sure someone will chime in with better info...Bruce
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I'll match that with a rack off a 130k 1989 NA for $50 in Atlanta, GA. Car wasn't running when I got it but the rack cleaned up real nice and I don't think it leaks.
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The reseal isn't all that bad. It does take time though.
Our kits have the two plastic seal backings (not supplied anywhere else) that tend to get messed up when removed. We also replace single seals if you end up killing one trying to get it in. As for the wear on the actual rack and having to machine it, that shouldn't be a problem unless the rack has been sitting / unused without fluid for some time. Without the fluid lubricating the shaft, it tends to rust and not make a good seal once rebuilt. When caught right away and not run dry a self rebuild is just as good as buying a rebuilt rack.
The other thing mentioned is cleaning out the system. This is a good idea, as is replacing the fluid reservoir before installing a new rack. The gunk that ate up the old seals is still floating in the system and hanging in the built in filter located at the bottom of the reservoir. A clean power steering system is a happy power steering system.
Our kits have the two plastic seal backings (not supplied anywhere else) that tend to get messed up when removed. We also replace single seals if you end up killing one trying to get it in. As for the wear on the actual rack and having to machine it, that shouldn't be a problem unless the rack has been sitting / unused without fluid for some time. Without the fluid lubricating the shaft, it tends to rust and not make a good seal once rebuilt. When caught right away and not run dry a self rebuild is just as good as buying a rebuilt rack.
The other thing mentioned is cleaning out the system. This is a good idea, as is replacing the fluid reservoir before installing a new rack. The gunk that ate up the old seals is still floating in the system and hanging in the built in filter located at the bottom of the reservoir. A clean power steering system is a happy power steering system.
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I just started putting the rennbay seals into my 928's rack. It's actually a pretty easy job if you're careful. Take pictures of every subassembly, every step you make, every part you take off, and note which part goes where and in what direction and arientation. The biggest problem with this job is keeping everything clean (well, this is an issue for me since I'm working in the driveway) and remembering how exactly to put it back together.
I'm using Travis' tutorial/instructions on the ps rack job, located at his website http://www.rennbay.com/psrsealkitfull.html
Hey Travis, I had a question about this actually - where does that white ring go? Also, do you know where I can find a snap ring for the main shaft, since one of mine was in 6 pieces.
I'm using Travis' tutorial/instructions on the ps rack job, located at his website http://www.rennbay.com/psrsealkitfull.html
Hey Travis, I had a question about this actually - where does that white ring go? Also, do you know where I can find a snap ring for the main shaft, since one of mine was in 6 pieces.
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You do not want a mechanic to do the reseal. In my experience, mechanics replace parts. We, as owners, fix them. If you did get a mechanic to do the job it is likely he would rush through it and when he got something wrong and it gushed fluid... he would tell you that he told you it was a bad idea.
Arash, you have an email.
Arash, you have an email.