Yummybud924

Man this really sucks, I had my water pump nuts and bolts soaking for 2 days in PB blaster and smacked all of them with a small wrench. they all came out pretty easily but one of the lower ones did not open and I tried turning a little hard and snap it basicly broke flush with the block (1-2 mm sticking out).

I'm screwed now I have everything removed and this stupid bolt broke off basicly flush with the block and I have no way to get it out.


Does anyone know what I can do? I'm thinking of finding a mobile mechanic to come over and take it out but I'm scared they'll just do more damage and not get it out.

I've read that you can drill it out but I've never tried something like this aso I don't want to screw things up more.

sharky47

I wonder if you could weld a nut on the end of the part sticking out........we are restoring a Sherman tank here at the shop and we have used this method ALOT to get rounded-off bolts and stuff out to great success.

Yummybud924

I doubt you can weld anthing too it....it's such a small bolt and it's almost flush with the block.

Plus I don't weld . I think drilling it out is the only way but I'm too scared to try this, also it's really tight in there so I'm not sure a drill would even fit in there and it would be very hard to see where you are drilling.

I don't see any other choice though. I think I have to find a pro who will come over and remove it for me but I don't know where to find someone.

Yummybud924

everything was going fine with my wp/ tb replacement until this.... Now I may have to wait weeks until I find someone to help me get it out.

josephsc

I would try either an "Screw Extractor" or a "Drill Out". What I do is

- center punch the bolt so that you're able to drill straight.
- make a small hole in the bolt with a drill -- doesn't have to be all that big -- just enough for the extractor to fit. Using a left-handed drill bit (hard to find) can help dislodge the bolt already. A "90 degree drill attachment" may be needed if you don't have enough work space.
- insert a screw extractor or drill out. I like to place it with a manual drill/tap holder, rather than with an electric one. The idea is to let the extractor get enough bite on the metal material around the hole you created so you can turn the bolt. You're be turning it counter-clockwise. I don't like an electric drill b/c you could end up just making a bigger hole.

But if you make the hole too large, or if the extractor does catch, then you could be looking at trying other solutions, like welding a nut, or tapping in a bigger hole. Good luck.

Yummybud924

thanks for the info but I'm thinking of just having a pro do it, I don't want to make a biggermess.

I'm in Richmond BC not sure where to look for a mobile mechanic, or anyone on this board want to help me?

thanks

Headhunter

You can always pull the fan shroud and radiator for extra space. That doesn't take up much additional time.

Yummybud924

I have removed the fan but not the radiator. I don't think it would be a good idea for me to try and extract it witha drill.

there still like 2 mm sticking out and I can hold onto it with cutters or pliers but its not much grip so I doubt it can work. I have some tissue with pb blaster soaked on it for now until I figure out what I can do.

Yummybud924

question about the method mentioned by joseph. Do you need a left handed drill to do this? just asking because that's what I read when I did a search. I don't have a drill but I could go and buy one and carefully attempt this. Canadian tire also has screw extracters. I'm guessing you just need a reversible drill.

ELLSSUU

Don't need a reversable drill. You drill the hole into the stud with a smaller bit. Put in the hand screw extractor which you turn in reverse and hope that it bites into the stud.

I did this exact procedure to one of my seat studs and it worked well. The other botched stud I notched with my dremel and put a screwdriver into it to turn loose.

If you need a picture to help understand just say the word.



BTW, this may be much easier with the radiator out of the way. I know it's a pain in the butt but that's Porsche ownership sometimes.

josephsc

2 mm is quite a bit -- almost a whole thread, no? I'd milk that for all it's worth first. Maybe try to get a good locking plier on there.

If you do drill -- a left-handed drill bit (and reversible drill) is optional. I just like to maximize my chances of success -- and minimize the chance of an additional mess.

Another thing that helps is to Dremel the area flat before center-punching -- just to make sure you get the drill point started right.

If we weren't talking about the engine area -- I'd also say applying heat helps. But I wouldn't unevenly heat the engine block.

ELLSSUU

Here's what I used on the seat stud along with a hand drill bit holder:


http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/...rwinProd100503

Bit holder:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes

Yummybud924

thank for the info.

yes Ellsuu pics would be great. Where would I get a "hand screw extractor?, I would have to find a really small extractor for that bolt.

I'll go buy the smallest, corded (lighter) drill at canadian tire tomorrow and try and extract it.... I'm scared of sliipping and damaging the aluminum block or drilling a bigger hole.

canadian tire has both "easy out' and screw extractors, I'd probably have to find the smallest one (smaller than the 6mm bolt).

ELLSSUU

See above. Looks like the correct name for it is "Steel Tap Wrench." Good Luck and practice your curse words over to Canadian Tire.

ELLSSUU

BTW, josephsc is right. Try vice grips on the little portion sticking out and see if that helps. Also it's much easier to drill into if you have a flat surface to start on. If it's an angle and you have to drill try to file it flat or the bit will try to walk on you.

Good Luck!

BTW, per Canadian Tire's website:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortmen...romSearch=true

http://www.canadiantire.ca/assortmen...romSearch=true

You will ofcourse also need a small hard drill bit.