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Oh crap I broke a water pump bolt

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Old 07-31-2006, 08:04 PM
  #16  
AR10
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Heating the bolt will not hurt the engine in any way. I have done this many times. Just use a very small tip on a oxy-acety. torch and heat the bolt only
just barely red. Allow to cool and it will usually screw right out with locking pliers.
Old 08-01-2006, 04:48 AM
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Yummybud924
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well I decided to try and remove it myself, will give it a shot tomorrow, hopefully I won't just cut a bigger hole / cut into the blow.

I bought a corded mastercraft drill, smallest one I could find, hopefully it will fit without removing the radiator.

also got a file, centre punch. then I got the smallest Screw extractor I could find #1 1/8" to 1/4" extractor it says that you first drill a hole into the screw or botl with a 5/64" bit then you insert the extractor into the pilot hole/ with open end or adjustable wrench turn extractor to the left.

not sure what they mean by a open end wrench to turn the extractor.

hard part is to drill exactly in the middle of the bolt.

hopefully I won't screw it up worse.
Old 08-01-2006, 05:33 AM
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Well... it doesn't have to be EXACTLY the middle -- but you do want to be near the center, and drill straight. What you are trying to avoid is drilling at an angle and screwing up the threads. This can also become an issue if the smallest screw extractor isn't quite doing it, and you want to go one size bigger. It's hard because once you start drilling, the drill doesn't like to change directions. The center punch is used to get you started right.

Not sure why the direction says "open end wrench", but I also use this:
Originally Posted by ELLSSUU
Good luck!
Old 08-01-2006, 07:04 AM
  #19  
89magic98
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I had this much left....
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Old 08-01-2006, 07:06 AM
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89magic98
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...wound up getting snapped off after playing with it for a while.

Took out the radiator fans, drilled out the bolt, cleaned out the threads with plenty of WD-40 and a tap...
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Old 08-01-2006, 09:25 AM
  #21  
ELLSSUU
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Originally Posted by Yummybud924
not sure what they mean by a open end wrench to turn the extractor.

hard part is to drill exactly in the middle of the bolt.
If your's is like mine then the backend of the extractor has a square tip. This "can" be used to turn the extractor with a wrench. I say "can" b/c I found it to put uneven pressure on the extractor and made it harder to set into the stud. Your results may vary.
Old 08-01-2006, 09:44 AM
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Your best bet would be left hand bits(cut in the opposite rotation as normal). Do a search and you will see that many people have broken extractors and made there lives much more troubled than they were before. Good luck. I am having cold chills and flash backs right now.

Cheers, Josh
Old 08-01-2006, 01:32 PM
  #23  
Laust Pedersen
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Originally Posted by 89magic98
That brings back scary memories. My WP bolt looked exactly like that. So instead of trying to remove it, I made an internally threaded stainless tube, screwed it halfway on to the broken bolt with Loctite, slightly enlarged the corresponding WP hole and eventually secured the WP in that location with a short bolt screwed into the tube.
It still works well.

Laust
Old 08-01-2006, 01:40 PM
  #24  
ShApE
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i would say get a bolt that will thread on to the 2mm u got then fill the center of the bolt with weld and unscrew it.
Old 08-01-2006, 03:11 PM
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Yummybud924
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sorry I think I was exagerating it's more like 1mm sticking out..... I first try drilling a small pilot hole through the centre.

I didn't know extractors break so easily, as long as it breaks not flush then you still have something to hold onto.....
Old 08-01-2006, 03:48 PM
  #26  
Jay W
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If the screw extractor breaks off then you cant drill it back out because it is stuck in there and it is really hard metal. Breaking off the extractor is the last thing you want to happen. Be very careful.
Old 08-01-2006, 09:53 PM
  #27  
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Using a left-handed thread drill bit sometimes helps too, after heating, pounding to loosen, etc. Getting a drill in place is tough sometimes too so I use a 45 degree angle drill attachment. These are pesky bolts to get out...and they frequently break. Bummer.

Harvey
Old 08-01-2006, 11:37 PM
  #28  
Mike C.
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I ran into this situation and did have success with a careful application of propane torch to the aluminum surrounding the bolt. The idea is to try and expand the aluminum with minimum heat to the bolt. Another possiblility would be to just leave the damn thing and use plenty of red RTV on the gasket surfaces. I'll bet you can live without one bolt. If you do try to drill & re-tap, by all means try to grind it flat first. I think with such a small diameter bolt, it might be better to forego the easy out and just drill it out as best you can and re-tap the threads. If the hole gets sloppy you can probably go to an oversize thread/bolt.
Old 08-01-2006, 11:43 PM
  #29  
mark944turbo
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I second the opinion of just leaving that bolt off. Especially if it is one that is close to a bunch of others, I have done this before with no problems. The best gasket maker is called "the right stuff" a gm product available at most auto parts stores. Coat both surfaces with this stuff and use a factory gasket and odds are you will be fine. Make sure the surfaces are cleaned with brake kleen and a razor blade.

I have never had any success with screw extractors. Usually when something is stuck enough to break a bolt, it is too stuck for a wimpy extractor. The exception is when the friction/corrosion under the head of the bolt was what was holding it up. When the head breaks off, this disappears, and sometimes what is left will come out easily (by hand). But when the corrosion is in the threads, its bad news trying to use an extractor.
Old 08-02-2006, 05:33 AM
  #30  
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I thought about just leaving that bolt out but I'm kind of worried as it's near a coolant hole and there are no bolts near it.

heres a pic of the bolt that broke off (not my pic but it's the same one). the one with the nut on it and it's next to that coolant passage.


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