josephsc

Well... that's it. My power-steering rack is toast -- I've been running my rack without the pulley belt in "manual" mode for the last two years due to a leaky high-pressure line, but now my PS rack is also leaking from behind the boot.

I know a true manual rack is an option (I've even collected all the necessary parts over the years) -- but I want the quicker ratio of the PS rack.

So how does one go about capping the PS rack to create a disabled power steering rack? I thought about running a hose from the inlet to the outlet on the rack and keeping it full of fluids, but that's not going to do any good without the rack leaking, right? Should I disassemble it and pack it with grease (if so, what kind)?

Keith E.

I found the post by DanG especially informative...
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...highlight=Attn
Also, there is a technical article on flyinmiata.com:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php
I also used the info available at Rennbay.com
In the Miata site, they mention cutting a gasket, ours just comes out pretty easily. With that out, and grease in everything, turning is only noticable at very low to stopped speeds. Like, not having enough pressure in the tires. I tried it without shimming the interior of the gear section, but the 15 degree slop was unacceptable. You must open the gear section and shim.

DanG

I just rebuilt my own rack. So knowing what know now, I'm going to make some changes to that post. Since its so easy to remove the piston (two snap rings), doing that will allow you to just fill & cap the pressure cylinder without having to make a transfer line (since the cylinder isn't pumping anymore.

josephsc

Thanks for the pointers -- once I get the rack off, I'm going to look into greasing it up (like the Miata guys), rather than using ATF for lubrication (b/c of the leak) and then capping.

Jon Moeller

SOB, now you tell me.

Does the piston have any affect on locating the rack in the housing? That was my only concern after reading the Miata write-up. If not, I'll be ditching an AN Line, pronto.

-Jon

DanG

The rack should be about 99.9% supported by the two plastic bushings and the pinion/yoke. Any radial loading on the piston itself equals metal to metal in the pressure chamber. Not tolerable. So removing it should be fine. And yes, I guess smathering the rack with a bunch of white lithium or blue/black moly (axle) grease should be fine. The bushings and seals were designed to be used with ATF, but I think a decent grease would keep them working.

Jon, sorry about not letting you know ahead of time. Sometimes the pistons are actually sweged onto the rack, and they can't be easily removed. Also, I didn't disassemble my valve since I'm still going to use it powered, so I'm not sure if the bolts you installed will do the job we were hoping for. I'll take a picture or two today to try and clear up the description.

Jon Moeller

Thanks, Dan. I'll probably go back in and pull the piston. I'll toss it on the parts shelf as a "just in case".

Pics would be appreciated, but I think I'm covered, if you don't get a chance.

-Jon

DanG

Jon, refer to Travis' tutorial on rack rebuilding for the pictures of the "piston assembly". Look at step 6 specifically. Remove both snap rings, both washers, the piston, and any orings.

http://www.rennbay.com/psrsealkitfull.html