Where there's smoke, there's oil (pics)
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
UPDATE: Where there's smoke, there's oil (pics)
I knocked out my first oil change on my 88 this past weekend (thanks for all the handy tips on the site, BTW. it was a snap) and I spotted something that didn't look too good. There was oil leaking from the back of the cam housing and down onto my exhaust. See pics (yes, that's a Pampers box catching the oil....it was the only box I had laying around).
From reading past threads and seeing where this is coming from and how it's leaking, I'm guessing it's the rear cam housing gasket? It's not a really bad leak (yet) but it's definitely enough to make pretty smoke when I'm sitting still in traffic or at a light. Assuming it is the gasket that needs replacing, is this what I remove to get to it? Pretty simple?
From reading past threads and seeing where this is coming from and how it's leaking, I'm guessing it's the rear cam housing gasket? It's not a really bad leak (yet) but it's definitely enough to make pretty smoke when I'm sitting still in traffic or at a light. Assuming it is the gasket that needs replacing, is this what I remove to get to it? Pretty simple?
Last edited by MJDore; 06-24-2006 at 11:41 PM.
#3
Rennlist Member
Yeah its a pain in the ***, I opted to just remove the cam tower to change the gasket instead of dealing with hard to reach bolts. I used a cork gasket with gasket sealer on both sides, and didnt tighten it tight, just snug, then retorqued it a little bit. If you compress that gasket it WILL leak, and you will have to do it again. Good luck with it.
-Jeff
-Jeff
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by jmporsche944
Yeah its a pain in the ***, I opted to just remove the cam tower to change the gasket instead of dealing with hard to reach bolts. I used a cork gasket with gasket sealer on both sides, and didnt tighten it tight, just snug, then retorqued it a little bit. If you compress that gasket it WILL leak, and you will have to do it again. Good luck with it.
-Jeff
-Jeff
Thanks for the feedback, guys. Did anyone have any luck finding one of these at an auto parts store? I'd hate to buy a dollar part and pay 6 bucks for S&H.
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
So, after a week's vacation I finally got around to replacing this gasket. I'm not totally convinced it's stopping my leak, though. It looks to me that oil is still coming out though it's hard to tell if it's still burning what had come out before. Are there other gaskets in this same area that are prone to leak?
We were careful not to overtighten this cork gasket and we used the proper sealer. Frustrating.
We were careful not to overtighten this cork gasket and we used the proper sealer. Frustrating.
#6
Rennlist Member
Cam tower seal (the one that goes all the way around the base of the red cam tower in your picture) or rear balance shaft seal is typically the issue. The latter is better in a sense, as it can usually be repaired with only a smear of yamabond. Replacement is pretty much an engine out procedure, so the low rent solution is the only rational option. Cam tower seal should be put off if possible until the belts need to be done anyway. It's roughly $700 in labor, the cost of the part is de minimus.
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by KLR
Cam tower seal (the one that goes all the way around the base of the red cam tower in your picture) or rear balance shaft seal is typically the issue. The latter is better in a sense, as it can usually be repaired with only a smear of yamabond. Replacement is pretty much an engine out procedure, so the low rent solution is the only rational option. Cam tower seal should be put off if possible until the belts need to be done anyway. It's roughly $700 in labor, the cost of the part is de minimus.
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#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Can anyone point me towards the rear balance shaft seal so I can wipe it down and check it? Pics or guides anywhere? I just checked Clark's Garage and didn't see anything. Thanks.
#10
If it is the cam tower leaking, you can do that without pulling the engine easy. I think someone meant to do the lower balance you would have to pull the engine, althought I have resealed them before without pulling the engine. Its location is on the pass. side of the engine right above the oil pan gasket. Its a long square type cover going about 3/4 the length of the block and has a circular disc on the back end of it.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
This is definitely coming from the area of the cam tower. I am going out to wipe and spray everything off to test it again now that it has cooled off overnight. I'll report back.
Any risk in driving it as long as I contiually check and add oil? (Other than the friendly smell).
Any risk in driving it as long as I contiually check and add oil? (Other than the friendly smell).
#12
Instructor
Thread Starter
I just wiped down everything and started her up. It got wet with oil pretty quick. It looks to me like its leaking in the EXACT same spot it was before. I'm beginning to think we didn't put the rear gasket on properly or overtightened it. I'm headed to NAPA right now to buy a gasket kit and we're going to try to make our own. Anyone done this before? When we installed the last cork gasket we used hi-tac to seal. Bad move?
Thanks, guys.
Thanks, guys.
#13
UAE Rennlist Ambassador
Rennlist Member
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The rear balance shaft seal would not leak and cause oil to go so far to drip on the headers, unless it is leaking like a running tap water.
It is either the rear camshaft seal, or the camshaft gasket. Parts for both are ~$10, and if you pull the tower, put in 20-30 miniutes to remove the camshaft housing.
The three 10mm bolts for the rear gasket are torqued at 6 Ft/lbs, and there is only on way the gasket can be installed. Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry, and the manual did no call for any sealants to be used, so i installed mine dry. Double check the torque on thos ebolts after a few minutes. 3+ months and no leaks from that seal for me.
If you pull the housing, torque the 6mm allen heads to 14 f/lbs, and the top 6 plugs at 30 ft/lbs.
You would need to remove the timing belt off the cam gear and retension the belt if the camshaft housing is to get off.
It is either the rear camshaft seal, or the camshaft gasket. Parts for both are ~$10, and if you pull the tower, put in 20-30 miniutes to remove the camshaft housing.
The three 10mm bolts for the rear gasket are torqued at 6 Ft/lbs, and there is only on way the gasket can be installed. Make sure both surfaces are clean and dry, and the manual did no call for any sealants to be used, so i installed mine dry. Double check the torque on thos ebolts after a few minutes. 3+ months and no leaks from that seal for me.
If you pull the housing, torque the 6mm allen heads to 14 f/lbs, and the top 6 plugs at 30 ft/lbs.
You would need to remove the timing belt off the cam gear and retension the belt if the camshaft housing is to get off.
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well, after a further look using a mirror to see up under the housing while the engine was running, we can tell it is definitely not coming from the newly installed rear cam gasket. It's pouring out right from the first allen head bolt on the left (under the 'P' in 'PORSCHE'). It has to be the cam tower gasket. More than I want to chew off so she'll go the mechanic first thing in the AM.