Early 944 Transmission Mount Replacement
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: North VA
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Early 944 Transmission Mount Replacement
Hi,
I'm bringing my 944 into my autotech class tomorrow to do the trans mounts. I only have like an hour and a half to get it done, and don't want to find any nasty surprises. I have the new parts, and I've been searching for the procedure to replace the originals. Can anyone affirm my suspicion that the job consists of:
*jacking up the rear
*putting jack under trans and lifting it a bit to reduce the load on the mounts
*pulling off both rear wheels
FOR EACH MOUNT:
*Undoing two bolts from the wheel well
*undoing one bolt from the transmission cross member
*Installation is the reverse of removal.
AND: can anyone tell me what the torque is for the bolts involved in putting the new mounts on?
Thank you, I hope this goes smoothly, it'll be my first time working on it in the shop and I don't want to make a fool of myself, or screw up the job.
-chris
I'm bringing my 944 into my autotech class tomorrow to do the trans mounts. I only have like an hour and a half to get it done, and don't want to find any nasty surprises. I have the new parts, and I've been searching for the procedure to replace the originals. Can anyone affirm my suspicion that the job consists of:
*jacking up the rear
*putting jack under trans and lifting it a bit to reduce the load on the mounts
*pulling off both rear wheels
FOR EACH MOUNT:
*Undoing two bolts from the wheel well
*undoing one bolt from the transmission cross member
*Installation is the reverse of removal.
AND: can anyone tell me what the torque is for the bolts involved in putting the new mounts on?
Thank you, I hope this goes smoothly, it'll be my first time working on it in the shop and I don't want to make a fool of myself, or screw up the job.
-chris
#2
Yeah, it is about that simple. I don't recall the torque specs, but the ones for the bolts into the trans case are not very high.
From when i did mine:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=mount
From when i did mine:
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ighlight=mount
#3
Yup pretty easy. I'm not sure what bolts in the wheel well you're talking about. The mounts bolt directly to the transaxle case and the cross menber. You really don't need to remove the rear wheels - put it up on ramps..
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: North VA
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ok yea, I crawled under there a minute ago to shoot some penetrant on the bolts I will be working with and saw what your talking about, for some reason I thought they bolted somewhere else... Anyways, I dont wanna strip the threads out because its aluminum, so does someone have the correct torque measurements for those bolts?
#7
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I'm just curious - are your mounts worn out? I didn't think transmission mounts ever really wear out. Are you just replacing them as an exercise?
Trending Topics
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: North VA
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well, I replaced them today, the procedure was fairly easy. The old mounts look good, A lot better than yours Manning. They flexed a bit easier than the new ones, so I put the new ones on anyways. The problem is still not resolved.
The problem:
when I accelerate hard, or take off from a hill, or let the clutch out quickly, *to put it simply, whenever there is a large strain on the drivetrain* I get a rubbing bumping grinding noise coming from the chassis of the car. I can feel it in the driver's/passenger's floorboards. Its really annoying. It sounds like something is spinning or vibrating, then comes into contact with the chassis. So I figured maybe it was the transmission mounts were dead, and the torque tube was slamming against the chassis. Guess I was wrong. Anyways, let me know your ideas. I dont lose any power when the noise is made, nor do I lose any torque. Could it be a bent torque tube? Please help, I am baffled.
The problem:
when I accelerate hard, or take off from a hill, or let the clutch out quickly, *to put it simply, whenever there is a large strain on the drivetrain* I get a rubbing bumping grinding noise coming from the chassis of the car. I can feel it in the driver's/passenger's floorboards. Its really annoying. It sounds like something is spinning or vibrating, then comes into contact with the chassis. So I figured maybe it was the transmission mounts were dead, and the torque tube was slamming against the chassis. Guess I was wrong. Anyways, let me know your ideas. I dont lose any power when the noise is made, nor do I lose any torque. Could it be a bent torque tube? Please help, I am baffled.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: North VA
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, I don't. The previous owner had a few secrets up his/her sleeve and had done a lot to it. For example: When we pulled the valve cover off, the head looked brand new. We didn't get any records from them, and my dad didn't do all his homework when buying it. We figured out that it was in an accident once as well, and the P.O put two different style tie rods on there. I would not be surprised if the clutch had been done, but is there an inspection hole somewhere that I can look through? I don't think it is a clutch related problem, because then I would be losing torque and acceleration, and it would only make the sound after shifting, right? cuz I could just be coastin along in second gear, floorboard it, and bam, noises. No rythym to the noise really.
#12
Yeah, sounds like rubber center clutch problem. The clutch has some "limp home" stops in the center, so when the rubber center blows apart you can still, maybe, drive the car home. Scared the poo out of me when my let go.
#14
Yea my original rubber center clutch had similar syptoms when it came apart. You can check it by removing the trapeziodal shaped hole cover from the transaxle which reveals the trans input shaft and coupler to driveshaft. With the car in gear, reach up and grab the coupler and try to turn it both ways. If it feels sloppy and you can rotate a few degrees in either direction, it is a good bet that the rubber center has gone.
#15
Mine had an issue where it wasn't really slipping, but there was alot of slop in the driveline. You'd go along, maintain throttle position, when you let off the transmission would take half a second and then <clunk>.
This is what a clutch with a bad rubber center looks like. Note the split around the center. This is where the play and slop come from.
This is what a clutch with a bad rubber center looks like. Note the split around the center. This is where the play and slop come from.