loose mirror
05-05-2006, 07:20 PM
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loose mirror
Help! my drivers side rearview mirror is flopping arourn on my 89 944 N/A. The base is secure but it seems the spring pivit is broken inside. What are my options? Has anybody fixed these?
I took off the door panel and tried to remove the mirror but could not figure out how to unplug the wires. where do they unplug?
Thanks
I took off the door panel and tried to remove the mirror but could not figure out how to unplug the wires. where do they unplug?
Thanks
05-06-2006, 12:11 AM
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Mine was the same way, but I just had to re-tighten the thing (foud a writeup). You actually don't have to remove the pannel, just do a search here on how to, but in short, you just take the mirror (glass) out by turning a plastic gear with a slim screw driver and then you can see the screws that hold everything in place. I had to re-connect all the wire during the process, bt that's the hardest part. Good luck.
05-06-2006, 07:49 PM
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In the sig - no need to search.
If the spring is actually broken, then you'll need to replace it. Although I can't imagine "that" spring ever breaking. Might take it off and use it to hold up a building somewhere - but actually break? Nah. More likely it's come undone.
Anyway - look in the 968 Aero Mirror Upgrade for photos and other needed info on how to take the flag mirrors apart.
If the spring is actually broken, then you'll need to replace it. Although I can't imagine "that" spring ever breaking. Might take it off and use it to hold up a building somewhere - but actually break? Nah. More likely it's come undone.
Anyway - look in the 968 Aero Mirror Upgrade for photos and other needed info on how to take the flag mirrors apart.
05-06-2006, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by redspitster
Where can I find a link to the 968 aero upgrade info?
Thanks
Thanks
05-07-2006, 01:48 PM
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The base is tight. It is the upper housing that is flopping around on the base. I took a look inside the base and it looks like the spring has come undone. I am just not sure how to put it back together
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05-07-2006, 02:34 PM
#8
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The spring is probably fine, it's the bolt that goes through the spring to compress and hold the assembly together that's probably loose. Lots of cussing and an 8mm hex driver is what I think it took me to get it back together. In my case, the mirror had to come off the car...
05-07-2006, 02:49 PM
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I asked the same question yesterday. How do you get the wiring harness through the hole in the bolt??????? I need to fix it ASAP, I am not wanting to take it to the shope. Mine is completely apart but don't know how to get the wires out without cutting them. Not going to do that.
05-07-2006, 03:07 PM
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Have you visted clarkes garage to see what he says about this stuff?
http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Tools
Small Flat Tip Screwdriver
Electrical Connector Pin Removal Tool
Metric Socket Set and Ratchet
Procedure - Early 944 (pre-1985.5)
Very careful pry the mirror glass away from the mirror drive mechanism using a flat tip screwdriver. The glass is held in place by three push pin connectors. The mirror glass can be easily broken if you pry to hard on the glass.
Once the glass is separated from the drive mechanism, disconnect the heater wires from the back of the mirror and set the glass aside so it isn't accidentally broken.
Using the appropriate size socket and ratchet, remove the three bolts that hold the mirror drive mechanism to the mirror housing. In the picture below this is shown using a mirror that has been removed from a car, but it works the same with the mirror on the car.
When you have the drive mechanism separated from the housing you'll find an electrical connector for the drive mechanism. Disconnect the mechanism and set it aside.
If the mirror housing is to be removed from the car, you'll have to remove the electical connector plug from the wires so that the housing will slide over the wiring harness. To do this you'll need an electrical connector pin removal tool. This is available at Radio Shack or most electronic supply stores. Using the tool push the pins, one at a time, out of the plug.
Rotate the mirror toward the front of the car and you'll find an Allen head bolt underneath the mirror housing. Remove the Allen head bolt and the mirror housing will slide off of the wiring harness.
Procedure - Late Model 944s (1985.5 and Newer)
NOTE
The mirror glass is attached to the mirror housing via a bayonet style locking ring. The locking ring has several teeth, one of which has a tab that locks into the bayonet mount. The locking ring is disengaged by inserting a flat tip screwdriver into the teeth and pushing the handle of the screwdriver to the left as you face the mirror (which rotates the locking ring counter-clockwise).
On the bottom side of the mirror near the center you'll find a small hole. Insert the small flat tip screwdriver into the hole and rotate the sliding locking ring (as described above) that holds the mirror glass in place.
Remove the mirror glass from the housing, disconnect the wire (mirror heating from the back of the mirror, and set it aside.
Remove the three bolts that hold the motor assembly in place and remove the motor.
Mark the orientation of the wires in relation to the indent on the motor plug. This will make the installation of the mirror go much smoother. Using a pin removal tool, press the female pins out of the motor electrical connector.
Turn the mirror housing on the base enough to expose the mounting screws. Remove the mounting screws and lift the mirror off the door.
Feed the motor wires down through the base of the mirror as it is lifted off the door.
Installation is the reverse of the removal. If you forgot to mark the orientation of the wires before removing them from the electrical connector plug, the drawing below and table below will help you determine the correct orientation of the wires. The wire orientations shown in the drawing is looking at the back side of the plug.
Clark's Garage © 1998
http://www.clarks-garage.com/
Tools
Small Flat Tip Screwdriver
Electrical Connector Pin Removal Tool
Metric Socket Set and Ratchet
Procedure - Early 944 (pre-1985.5)
Very careful pry the mirror glass away from the mirror drive mechanism using a flat tip screwdriver. The glass is held in place by three push pin connectors. The mirror glass can be easily broken if you pry to hard on the glass.
Once the glass is separated from the drive mechanism, disconnect the heater wires from the back of the mirror and set the glass aside so it isn't accidentally broken.
Using the appropriate size socket and ratchet, remove the three bolts that hold the mirror drive mechanism to the mirror housing. In the picture below this is shown using a mirror that has been removed from a car, but it works the same with the mirror on the car.
When you have the drive mechanism separated from the housing you'll find an electrical connector for the drive mechanism. Disconnect the mechanism and set it aside.
If the mirror housing is to be removed from the car, you'll have to remove the electical connector plug from the wires so that the housing will slide over the wiring harness. To do this you'll need an electrical connector pin removal tool. This is available at Radio Shack or most electronic supply stores. Using the tool push the pins, one at a time, out of the plug.
Rotate the mirror toward the front of the car and you'll find an Allen head bolt underneath the mirror housing. Remove the Allen head bolt and the mirror housing will slide off of the wiring harness.
Procedure - Late Model 944s (1985.5 and Newer)
NOTE
The mirror glass is attached to the mirror housing via a bayonet style locking ring. The locking ring has several teeth, one of which has a tab that locks into the bayonet mount. The locking ring is disengaged by inserting a flat tip screwdriver into the teeth and pushing the handle of the screwdriver to the left as you face the mirror (which rotates the locking ring counter-clockwise).
On the bottom side of the mirror near the center you'll find a small hole. Insert the small flat tip screwdriver into the hole and rotate the sliding locking ring (as described above) that holds the mirror glass in place.
Remove the mirror glass from the housing, disconnect the wire (mirror heating from the back of the mirror, and set it aside.
Remove the three bolts that hold the motor assembly in place and remove the motor.
Mark the orientation of the wires in relation to the indent on the motor plug. This will make the installation of the mirror go much smoother. Using a pin removal tool, press the female pins out of the motor electrical connector.
Turn the mirror housing on the base enough to expose the mounting screws. Remove the mounting screws and lift the mirror off the door.
Feed the motor wires down through the base of the mirror as it is lifted off the door.
Installation is the reverse of the removal. If you forgot to mark the orientation of the wires before removing them from the electrical connector plug, the drawing below and table below will help you determine the correct orientation of the wires. The wire orientations shown in the drawing is looking at the back side of the plug.
Clark's Garage © 1998
05-07-2006, 04:23 PM
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Seeing how my floppy mirror included the PO throwing some caulk in there too... the wires were in pretty bad shape so I actually cut them loose then reconnected them. They were all skinned to the copper.
06-04-2006, 07:05 PM
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Just wanted to resurrect this thread to say thanks. I fixed my floppy mirror in 45 min. thanks to a quick search here. Haynes was useless on this topic. Unless I had a full copy of the repair manual (which I don't) I do not think there would have been any way to have affected this repair. Enter rennlist. Five minutes to get the search right and I get real experience and tips to get me started and in this case I wind up with a detailed procedure which gets the job done with little fuss. All I had to do was be carful and improvise when I didn't quite have the right tools.
So.. my two bits. For a late model (85.5+) I used the "Clarks" procedure linked to by SchnellerUmsetzer". I would disagree with the following:
"Once the glass is separated from the drive mechanism, disconnect the heater wires from the back of the mirror and set the glass aside so it isn't accidentally broken." - You don't have to remove the heating wires and separate the mirror from the motor assembly. The heating wires are long enough to drop the mirror out of the way so you can access the three mounting bolts with no problem. The whole assembly is out in less than 5 minutes after you get the mirror loose from the motor.
Use full tip (hopefully) - To access the bayonet ring slots more directly; tilt the mirror all the way forward (bottom of mirror as far back into the housing as possible). Get a flashlight and have a look up through the hole and you can see the slots in the ring. Then have a look in the gap between the top of the mirror and the housing and you should be able to see how the bayonet ring works. It is quite simple bayonet mechanism as there are no catch tabs to break off - it catches four posts on the motor assembly and rotates clockwise to clip under the posts. Counter clockwise rotation releases the posts. Done.
The hollow bolt connecting the flag housing to the base is pretty sturdy. Most likely the bolt has simply backed out of the threaded hole. I can see how the housing could become stripped but in my case it was not. Once the wires are out and you have both the flag housing and the base removed from the door, you will need th re-tighten the hollow cheese head bolt back into the flag housing. This will take some serious effort as the spring pushing against the bolt is large. I used a big bastard phillips head screwdriver which I had to lean into big time to get the first threads to catch. I had to give it 90% of my body weight and I'm a fair size.
Next time it will take me 20 minutes start to finish. See you then.
So.. my two bits. For a late model (85.5+) I used the "Clarks" procedure linked to by SchnellerUmsetzer". I would disagree with the following:
"Once the glass is separated from the drive mechanism, disconnect the heater wires from the back of the mirror and set the glass aside so it isn't accidentally broken." - You don't have to remove the heating wires and separate the mirror from the motor assembly. The heating wires are long enough to drop the mirror out of the way so you can access the three mounting bolts with no problem. The whole assembly is out in less than 5 minutes after you get the mirror loose from the motor.
Use full tip (hopefully) - To access the bayonet ring slots more directly; tilt the mirror all the way forward (bottom of mirror as far back into the housing as possible). Get a flashlight and have a look up through the hole and you can see the slots in the ring. Then have a look in the gap between the top of the mirror and the housing and you should be able to see how the bayonet ring works. It is quite simple bayonet mechanism as there are no catch tabs to break off - it catches four posts on the motor assembly and rotates clockwise to clip under the posts. Counter clockwise rotation releases the posts. Done.
The hollow bolt connecting the flag housing to the base is pretty sturdy. Most likely the bolt has simply backed out of the threaded hole. I can see how the housing could become stripped but in my case it was not. Once the wires are out and you have both the flag housing and the base removed from the door, you will need th re-tighten the hollow cheese head bolt back into the flag housing. This will take some serious effort as the spring pushing against the bolt is large. I used a big bastard phillips head screwdriver which I had to lean into big time to get the first threads to catch. I had to give it 90% of my body weight and I'm a fair size.
Next time it will take me 20 minutes start to finish. See you then.
