Review: Rennbay Headlight (Re)wiring Kit
#76
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I installed my Rennbay Wiring Harness last night. I have to say, there is quite an improvement! I'm not using stock lighting however, I have some H4 Ebay Specials instead (which actually aren't that bad, and are much brighter over stock even without the new wiring, and look really cool at night). There is also essentially no engine struggle or cluster dimming when I turn the headlights on now, something that happened before when I turned the headlights on. The battery gauge barely moves ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Like I said, I'm very impressed with the quality of the product and the service I received, but I have to say, not with any disrespect to Travis, that it was not just a simple "plug and play" installation.
This could of course be partially my own ignorance and/or inexperience, but I had disassembled the airbox, unclamped the J-boot and swung the AFM out of the way and began undoing the alternator cover screws...only to find there is one retaining screw on the underside of the alternator that is IMPOSSIBLE to reach from above. So I had to reassemble everything and come back to it later, because I had to drive the car up on my ramps, remove the skidplate, disconnect the alternator cover vent, and reach up at the screw, and loosen it 1/16 of a turn at a time, as was only permitted.
I finally got the cover loose (but not off, it was VERY stuck, and I won't risk breaking it), and I was able to reach a wrench in there and slowly loosen the positive cable. Mounting the relays was simple, but routing the wiring took much trial and error to figure out where to zapstrap the cable, and allow enough slack for the cables when the lights went up and down.
I'm not bitter at all here, and I'm really grateful for the product, but after a combined total of 6 hours to install the kit, I was exhausted.
By the way, in the photos from the first review, it shows the alternator cover off. Does anyone leave the cover off all the time? Does anyone else have any issues getting the cover off? The cover leads to a vent, that runs up inside the fender and aims downward...what is the point of venting the alternator like this?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Like I said, I'm very impressed with the quality of the product and the service I received, but I have to say, not with any disrespect to Travis, that it was not just a simple "plug and play" installation.
This could of course be partially my own ignorance and/or inexperience, but I had disassembled the airbox, unclamped the J-boot and swung the AFM out of the way and began undoing the alternator cover screws...only to find there is one retaining screw on the underside of the alternator that is IMPOSSIBLE to reach from above. So I had to reassemble everything and come back to it later, because I had to drive the car up on my ramps, remove the skidplate, disconnect the alternator cover vent, and reach up at the screw, and loosen it 1/16 of a turn at a time, as was only permitted.
I finally got the cover loose (but not off, it was VERY stuck, and I won't risk breaking it), and I was able to reach a wrench in there and slowly loosen the positive cable. Mounting the relays was simple, but routing the wiring took much trial and error to figure out where to zapstrap the cable, and allow enough slack for the cables when the lights went up and down.
I'm not bitter at all here, and I'm really grateful for the product, but after a combined total of 6 hours to install the kit, I was exhausted.
By the way, in the photos from the first review, it shows the alternator cover off. Does anyone leave the cover off all the time? Does anyone else have any issues getting the cover off? The cover leads to a vent, that runs up inside the fender and aims downward...what is the point of venting the alternator like this?
#77
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It took me about 2.5 hours to install mine in my 951S. That included taking off the MAF, IC pipe, teh back of the alternator cover, attaching and running the harness (easy with the exception of the positive on the back of the alternator), removing and installing the new headlites and putting back the MAF and IC pipe...
#80
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Originally Posted by Friendan
By the way, in the photos from the first review, it shows the alternator cover off. Does anyone leave the cover off all the time? Does anyone else have any issues getting the cover off? The cover leads to a vent, that runs up inside the fender and aims downward...what is the point of venting the alternator like this?
There's a lot of debate as to whether the vent is truly necessary or not, but the general consensus is that it will help provide better voltage output and prolong the life of the alternator.
And wow! I'm amazed that you were able to put the line from the relays to the alternator on without pulling the alternator out. When I was trying to put it all together, I had to remove the alternator and attach it, then drop it back in.
#81
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Finally drove the car at night last night. Big difference! I can actually see where I'm going now. A nice improvement over the dim candles the car had before...
#82
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Anyone install this kit into an S2? I need to locate the alternator terminal and also would like to know any suggested routes for the passenger side light cable. Thanks.
#83
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I've been considering this project for some time now. Anyone ever installed one on an early n/a...an 83 by anychance? It was a pain to get the alternator back in last time and I would prefer not to do it again, but this looks like it would really help because I drive at night often. Also, what did you do to secure the relays to the car? I don't really want to drill holes into my frame.
#84
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I'm going to install mine soon. I feel a bit silly asking this but the last connection has me confused. Where exactly is it? It sounds like it has to routed to some mysterious tunnel. lol
#85
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Originally Posted by swimmingly
The vent for the alternator helps cool it. There are diodes in there that determine the voltage output of the alternator. As they get hot, the voltage output of the alternator decreases. You've probably noticed this if you've watched the voltage output of the alternator when your car is idling.
There's a lot of debate as to whether the vent is truly necessary or not, but the general consensus is that it will help provide better voltage output and prolong the life of the alternator.
And wow! I'm amazed that you were able to put the line from the relays to the alternator on without pulling the alternator out. When I was trying to put it all together, I had to remove the alternator and attach it, then drop it back in.
There's a lot of debate as to whether the vent is truly necessary or not, but the general consensus is that it will help provide better voltage output and prolong the life of the alternator.
And wow! I'm amazed that you were able to put the line from the relays to the alternator on without pulling the alternator out. When I was trying to put it all together, I had to remove the alternator and attach it, then drop it back in.
The voltage regulator is tasked with regulating the output voltage. These semiconductors have a very tight tolerance as far as heat is concerned, and heat has very little effect on their output...However, their lifespan is reduced at high temperatures, therefore justifying the cool air vent.
The reduction in output at idle is a result of pulley rpm.
Party on!
#87
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Hey Mark.
If you are referring to the long lead that goes over to the passenger side headlamp you just follow the routing of the stock wiring. In the turbo I believe it winds its way through the front bumper. If you find a better way to run it you should have plenty of length there to put it just about anywhere. With the high temp wires and sleeve, heat should not be an issue.
If you are referring to the long lead that goes over to the passenger side headlamp you just follow the routing of the stock wiring. In the turbo I believe it winds its way through the front bumper. If you find a better way to run it you should have plenty of length there to put it just about anywhere. With the high temp wires and sleeve, heat should not be an issue.
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Oh, sorry. The signal connector plugs into your OEM drivers side headlight connector. It takes the signal from your stock wiring to work the relays which control the new circuit.