Clutch pedal stuck to floor..
#1
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Hey guys, sometimes my clutch pedal *drops* to the floor.. hafta fish it up with my toe, and it always "pops" back up. Not that it's "going to the floor" under pressure, it actually DROPS under the slightest provocation. WTF???
Anyone else have this happen?
LLG
Anyone else have this happen?
LLG
#2
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your slave needs rebuilt or replaced....possibly the master.
when erins car started doing that-at the first autox- i knew that was the problem. New mc and rebuilt the slave and she's good as gold now.
you may try just flushing it out real good first, the junk settles in the slave and makes it stick.
when erins car started doing that-at the first autox- i knew that was the problem. New mc and rebuilt the slave and she's good as gold now.
you may try just flushing it out real good first, the junk settles in the slave and makes it stick.
#7
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I know I always add this, but, check the hose that runs between the two also. It's half rubber, half metal,
my rubber part was all blistered and squishy (hate when that happens
). If you're gonna change stuff, change that too if it looks questionable.
my rubber part was all blistered and squishy (hate when that happens
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#8
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The hose failed on me en route to rookie club race, what a gusher...
Anyway, try bleeding it properly first. My '88 did this when I bought it. Took two good bleeds to get it, but PRESTO! - Totally fine thereafter.
The clutch cylinders do have a tendency to fail over time, but try the bleed first. If you have the pressure bleeder (Motive), it's even easier. Let's assume you're gonna do it the old fashioned way with a helper:
1) Keep reservoir VERY full during the bleed. The hose to the clutch is kinda high up on the reservoir. Suck air into it and you will need a beer to get over the frustration.
2) Remove the negative battery cable before fishing around for the clutch slave bleeder valve. It's very close to the starter and will scare the crap out of you when you ground out the hot lead with your little 7mm Craftsman wrench (ask me how I learned this!).
3) You will hear a lot about "raising the rear of the car higher than the front". No offense to anyone here, but I NEVER have done this and NEVER have had a problem bleeding the clutch in the 50+ times I've bled the 944 and 968.
4) Beyond that, you have to get under there. I prefer driving the front wheels up onto those black plastic Rhino ramps. Stable, no scaring jacking, a matter of personal taste. For my money, just ramp the front of the car, lock the parking brake, and slide under. Jack stands will work, but they make me bloody nervous.
5) Then it's just press-the-pedal-down-and-hold-while-you-open-the-screw-hold-pedal-down-and-close-screw method.
If a good bleeding doesn't cure it, then you are likely going to need to go "surgical" as noted above.
Good luck!
Anyway, try bleeding it properly first. My '88 did this when I bought it. Took two good bleeds to get it, but PRESTO! - Totally fine thereafter.
The clutch cylinders do have a tendency to fail over time, but try the bleed first. If you have the pressure bleeder (Motive), it's even easier. Let's assume you're gonna do it the old fashioned way with a helper:
1) Keep reservoir VERY full during the bleed. The hose to the clutch is kinda high up on the reservoir. Suck air into it and you will need a beer to get over the frustration.
2) Remove the negative battery cable before fishing around for the clutch slave bleeder valve. It's very close to the starter and will scare the crap out of you when you ground out the hot lead with your little 7mm Craftsman wrench (ask me how I learned this!).
3) You will hear a lot about "raising the rear of the car higher than the front". No offense to anyone here, but I NEVER have done this and NEVER have had a problem bleeding the clutch in the 50+ times I've bled the 944 and 968.
4) Beyond that, you have to get under there. I prefer driving the front wheels up onto those black plastic Rhino ramps. Stable, no scaring jacking, a matter of personal taste. For my money, just ramp the front of the car, lock the parking brake, and slide under. Jack stands will work, but they make me bloody nervous.
5) Then it's just press-the-pedal-down-and-hold-while-you-open-the-screw-hold-pedal-down-and-close-screw method.
If a good bleeding doesn't cure it, then you are likely going to need to go "surgical" as noted above.
Good luck!
#10
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I'm dealing with this exact same problem. The turbo's clutch pedal had been getting soft on me and was dropping to the floor in cold temps. It's been my daily driver while the NA is in the body shop and I was planning on bleeding this weekend, but alas, it didn't make it to the weekend. Drove to work on Wed but couldn't drive it home. Had no actuation left...couldn't get it into gear or out if the engine was running (shifter moved freely if engine was off). Had to get a tow home.
Going to try a good bleed or two this weekend and it that doesn't work. Hopefully that will do it.
Going to try a good bleed or two this weekend and it that doesn't work. Hopefully that will do it.
#11
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my master had a slight leak... then my slave had a slight drip. I never had my clutch fall to the floor as I replaced both as soon as I noticed the slave was going. Havent had a problem since.
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Since i can't access the car from underneath, i am taking the car to a garage tomorrow and replace the following:
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Intermediate Hose
I also understand that if the hydrolic system is weak (leaking/bas fluid), cold weather puts more stress on the system.
Clutch Master Cylinder
Clutch Slave Cylinder
Intermediate Hose
I also understand that if the hydrolic system is weak (leaking/bas fluid), cold weather puts more stress on the system.
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It's amazing how much cursing a vehicle can cause in so short a time! Just had my clutch done and was enjoying the feeling of driving without hearing every articulation of the clutch when my pedal dropped and stayed there. It is now on ramps awaiting attention. Unfortunately, without a garage, gravel ground gets ugly at 30F. I guess I should plan on replacing all of the part then? The master/slave and line between?
#15
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Use the search funtion, there are dozens of threads with this information.
Replacing the clutch slave and master cylinders is not difficult or expensive. And yes, replace them both or you will have to bleed the system again when you replace what you didn't this time. Buy a good power bleeder or make one from a garden sprayer, the pump kind.the
Replacing the clutch slave and master cylinders is not difficult or expensive. And yes, replace them both or you will have to bleed the system again when you replace what you didn't this time. Buy a good power bleeder or make one from a garden sprayer, the pump kind.the