Kirkvw72

So I put the car up on my lift, take all the under body stuff off, remove the sway bar support, remove the main motor mount bolt, and ATTEMPT to remove the two 13mm upper motor mount bolts. After an hour plus of trying and almost shredding one with a 13mm flex-head wrench and rounding a corner with a open-ended wrench...I gave up and put the car back together. BTW, this mount has never been replaced (all the bolts still had their factory paint). Any ideas??

Clint's 944

I'm not sure if you can do it with a 951 but...I got mine out on the N/A with a super long extension + flexi and socket from the top of the motor on the drivers side. Passenger side I used 13mm box wrench from underneath.

Did you try some PB blaster?

bsbiker

Good Tools! Snap-On tools are expensive but worth it. They grab the flat side of the nut, not the point as a Craftsman tool will do. Also, the swivel sockets will work at extreme angles. FYI. Good Luck!

Kirkvw72

Good idea about coming at it from the top. I just ran out there and looked but the manifold is basically blocking the top of the mount. I could even get my hand to the bolt! What is PB blaster?

SD Porsche Fan

PB Blaster is like WD-40 on steroids! Truely great penetrating fluid.

http://www.pbblaster.com/

Kurt R

I'm stuck right now too trying to figure out what to do on the passenger's side. I'm either going to try dropping the crossmember (along with the engine) and see if I get a better angle on it, or remove the exhaust manifold. On the back of the passenger's side I can turn it with a flat wrench, but not enough to get another grip on it.

Clint's 944

You could also try the following, it worked for another part of the car when I just could not get anything in there.

If you have an extra 13mm wrench, cut it down to about an inch or so so you can have some turning movement. Take another closed end wrench and slip it on the end....voila...serously angled box wrench!

Warning!!! I did this when I fabbed a new flange connecting Bursch headers to a factory cat. The third bolt ended up top dead center. I couldn't reach it with anything!

austin944

I raised the engine just a little to gain more maneuvering room, and left the crossmember loosely bolted in on the driver's side so I didn't have to struggle getting it back on. Didn't want to jack it up too far for fear of breaking something in the drivetrain.

Mike1982

The best way too is to put PB blaster on it and let it sit. If you can, put PB blaster on, let it stand for like 30 mins, spray more on, sit another 30, etc. I did this for some bolts I never thought I would get off and worked good. After this process (which is long) make sure you have a GOOD fit on the bolt (all the way down on the bolt, no weird angles if possible) then give it one really good smack to break it lose, then should come right off.

Zero10

I was able to get at the top on the D/S by removing the big heat shield, and on the P/S, I used 3 wobble extensions, and a 13mm socket. From there I used a 1/2" - 3/8" adapter, and my 24" 1/2"-drive breaker bar. Broke mine free, and IMO they were very very very stuck.
That said, use some PB blaster, let it soak a couple times, and go back at it with whatever method you feel is best.

Kirkvw72

Thanks for all the replies! I was very bummed out to not get it done and It will be a few week until I feel like spending the time on it again. I need to get some wobble extentions...I feel they will give me the best torque on the bolt. I am also thinking about just paying someone to do it!