500

Antonio,

That car is in awesome shape. It looks like it came out of a showroom less than a year ago!

Antonio951

Thanks for all the compliments on the car, i try my best to take good care of it and enjoy every drive i take in it.

Now to the problem,

I couldn't get the rotor of any other way than breaking it.
There is a metal(brass?) piece i cant remove. Im assuming it needs to be removed because the new rotor does not slide on and it already has that metal piece in it.
ANY help would be great,
Been breaking my back for an hour trying to get this thing of with pliers wrench etc but it doesn't budge.

Techno Duck

Have you tried vice grips or maybe Channel-Locks?

Friendan

Antonio, that car has a serious case of H-O-T.

Seriously though, I plan on replacing all of those components pretty soon too, I'm in a similar position to you in terms of my familiarity with those parts. By the way, where did you finally purchase all of those parts, and how much did they set you back, if you dont mind me asking?

I have a related question; I was looking on Pelican at the rotors, and they sell the Bosch replacement rotor, and then they sell the OEM rotor that includes a "shaft" that they refer to that attaches to the rotor.

Does anyone know how often this needs to be replaced, if at all, and if I would be ok just getting the Bosch unit?

aribop

Shoot some WD-40 in there and then use a pipe wrench by twisting and pulling at the same time. It's worked for me.

Manning

The few times I replaced the rotor on my car the replacement came with the entire sleave, not just the plastic and brass bit. You had to remove the little bolt that the arrow is pointing at in this picture and yank the whole thing off, then slide on the new and replace the bolt with a bit of loctite.

Porsche-O-Phile

The brass piece is part of the new rotor assembly. Rip that sucker off there.

Good idea to place something in the "hole" behind it so any brass chunks don't end up in the timing belts, but I'm paranoid like that.

Looks gorgeous!

SoCal Driver

Turn the engine over clockwise till you find the screw that holds the adapter on. Take the screw out. Hex head. Then the adaptor will come off easy. Don't mess it up as you may have to use it again.

CCCP

I used some robogrip pliers. The trick is to twist and pull, you're gonna need to get some pliers that'll allow you to really get a good grip on the shaft though. And when you go to put on the new rotor put on a little bit of grease on the adapter.

SoCal Driver

Here is a split image of both sides. You may have to take off the aluminum cover to get to the screw.

89magic98

Am I the only one who removes one spark plug wire at a time when replacing them? In other words, don't disconnect all 4 spark plug wires, then install the new ones. Do them one at a time so as not to mix them up.

SoCal Driver

This bolt.

SoCal Driver

That's no fun! Where would all of the "My Car Will Not Start" threads come from?

Techno Duck

There is a handy little diagram on Clarks-Garage that shows the firing order. If you think about it long enough you can usually figure out the firing order, just note that the #1 plug goes on the bottom right and the rotor turns clockwise when your facing it. 1-3-4-2

Another solution if its really stuck on good, use a dremel with a cutoff wheel to carefully split the brass collar in two.

Antonio951

Thanks for all the help,
This think is hard to get of.
Im a little confused, do i need to remove the other bolt or can i just somehow get that freaking brass piece of without unscrewing anything else?
Per clarks garage im on the right track, it even says that the rotor might break and that brass piece is hard to get of.
I cover the area im working around with a towel incase i drop a screw or something, and
i bought the wires for 95 from pelican and about 50 for the rotor and cap from paragon.

I also drew a little diagram on where the wires go before i removed them. But its pretty hard to mess it up because the wires are different lengths and there is a sticker with a picture of the distributor cap on top of the timing belt housing(?) with nrs to the cylinders.

When i get home today i will try everything you guys have suggested and see how far i get. Hope to get this thing of soon!

Thanks for all the help so far.

Antonio