Spark plug wires, cap and rotor. *FINALLY DONE*(pics)
11-10-2005, 09:57 AM
#31
Race Director
Originally Posted by SoCal Driver
That's no fun! Where would all of the "My Car Will Not Start" threads come from?
11-10-2005, 12:55 PM
#32
Nordschleife Master
Antonio, i think you are one of the few people who has a car that has that sticker on the cam housing still!
I am not sure about having to remove that bolt to get that brass collar off. On my '87 n/a the cap and rotor slid right off, no fuss at all.
I am not sure about having to remove that bolt to get that brass collar off. On my '87 n/a the cap and rotor slid right off, no fuss at all.
11-10-2005, 01:15 PM
#33
Instructor
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You don't have to take the second screw off to get the brass piece off. The 2nd screw holds the adapter shaft to the cam gear. The rotor is held onto the adapter shaft by the screw you already took off. All you have to do now is just muscle that brass piece off.
11-10-2005, 08:25 PM
#38
Race Car
Spray it with some WD-40, then rap on it a few times with a hammer, re-spray, and let it sit for a few minutes. Wipe the outside dry, and try to twist it with a pipe wrench (Doesn't need to be a big one). If it doesn't come free easily, use a thin flat-head screwdriver or chisel, and go down the back side of it, against the collar that it sits inside, and pry it off. Worked every time for me. Now, on installation of the new one, use some anti-sieze or grease on the outside of the shaft that the rotor slides on, but be careful not to get any on the threads for the small allen bolt, or else it may work itself loose. Don't use any loctite on re-installation, or you will regret it...
11-10-2005, 09:41 PM
#39
Drifting
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Ok, i finally got the thing of.
Had to work it left and right a couple times but it came of. Everything looks clean, i re-installed the new rotor and now i have a new problem. I cant get the distributor cap to lock in place. I haven't even attemted to lock the bottom one yet. Almost tired everything i know but the thing wont lock.
Any ideas?
Had to work it left and right a couple times but it came of. Everything looks clean, i re-installed the new rotor and now i have a new problem. I cant get the distributor cap to lock in place. I haven't even attemted to lock the bottom one yet. Almost tired everything i know but the thing wont lock.
Any ideas?
11-10-2005, 09:52 PM
#41
Nordschleife Master
They are a pain in the butt to get on as they are spring loaded and only lock in a certain position.
Its tough to explain how its done, but hold the cap infront of you like you were putting it on. Position both of the locking arms so they are pointing to the left. The cap will fit into its position. Now the tricky part is pushing in the top screw in all the way, while continuing to push in, rotate the screw counter-clockwise until it stops. Do the same for the bottom. The top and bottom screws will lock at different points, the top one only rotates maybe a 1/4 turn, the bottom about 3/4 of a turn. I find it helps using a stubby screwdriver.
Its tough to explain how its done, but hold the cap infront of you like you were putting it on. Position both of the locking arms so they are pointing to the left. The cap will fit into its position. Now the tricky part is pushing in the top screw in all the way, while continuing to push in, rotate the screw counter-clockwise until it stops. Do the same for the bottom. The top and bottom screws will lock at different points, the top one only rotates maybe a 1/4 turn, the bottom about 3/4 of a turn. I find it helps using a stubby screwdriver.
11-10-2005, 11:14 PM
#42
Race Car
You will swear a lot installing the cap, and you will then stop for a while, scratching your head wondering why they would design the thing in such a terrible fashion, and why is that stupid headlight bar right in the way, and then you will go at it again, and eventually get it. I guarantee, the second time is easier.
11-11-2005, 12:16 AM
#43
Drifting
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This is by far the hardest thing i have done to the car but i got it done.
I started the car hoping nothing was going to blow up and it didn't, idled right around 850-900 rpm. I didn't drive it yet to make sure everything is fine under full boost
but i will this weekend.
The worst part of the whole thing was the bottom screw of the distributor cap.
I APPLAUD all you guys that change the clutch, do the timing belt, rebuild the engine etc all by your self.
I really appreciate all the help and suddgestions everyone gave, it was very helpful. I cant think of another place you can get on and have "live" help 24/7 on a 20 year old car.
Again thanks everyone, the help is very much appreciated.
Heres a couple pics of the finished product
Antonio
I started the car hoping nothing was going to blow up and it didn't, idled right around 850-900 rpm. I didn't drive it yet to make sure everything is fine under full boost
but i will this weekend. The worst part of the whole thing was the bottom screw of the distributor cap.
I APPLAUD all you guys that change the clutch, do the timing belt, rebuild the engine etc all by your self.
I really appreciate all the help and suddgestions everyone gave, it was very helpful. I cant think of another place you can get on and have "live" help 24/7 on a 20 year old car.
Again thanks everyone, the help is very much appreciated.
Heres a couple pics of the finished product
Antonio
11-11-2005, 02:04 AM
#45
Race Car
Looking nice.
Haha, honestly, some days doing a distributor cap is just as hard as dropping an engine. There was once I spent almost 2 hours trying to get that stupid thing on. Of course, I didn't have the righ ttools, and in the end it took some real creativity, but still, 2 hours!
Haha, honestly, some days doing a distributor cap is just as hard as dropping an engine. There was once I spent almost 2 hours trying to get that stupid thing on. Of course, I didn't have the righ ttools, and in the end it took some real creativity, but still, 2 hours!