Paint Polishing
11-08-2005, 11:32 AM
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Paint Polishing
Well, after spending the summer painting the car, I'm now in the process of wet-sanding and polishing the paint. It is taking me forever though, as I don't have much free time right now. However, I am really happy with the results and thought I'd share a little of what I learned. The process I'm following is:
1) I use a fine nib file to flatten dust specks. (Click here for nib file info)
2) I wet sand with 1500 with a small foam block. (Obvious, but important) I make super sure the surface is completely clean before starting and between each step of wet sanding, buffing and polishing. A spray bottle with 50/50 mix of rubbing alcohol and water works good, with lint free disposable towels for drying. I use lots of water with a little bit of dish soap in it to lubricate when sanding. Also, I found it is really important not to let any corners of the paper drag in the finish, as this leaves behind slightly deeper scratches that you don't really see until later (and then have to go back and re-do areas). I kept the sandpaper strip a little narrower that the length of the foam block, to keep the edges and corners under control.
3) Wet sand with 2000 grit.
4) Wet sand with 2500 grit (you will see a bit of gloss and reflection by now).
6) I chose Sure Finish polish based on reputation [EDIT: There are obviously other good choices...], and have been delighted with this product. You actually use the same product for each stage, but just change pads. (Click here for Sure Finish) I start with the wool pad, making sure it is well dampened. To do this, I prepare the wool pad for the first time by running a few ribbons (6" long) of polish into the pad by running the pad VERY slow. When I start buffing, I use a dime-size drop of polish at a time, and buff until it is ALMOST gone. I have another spray bottle available, of water only. When the polish is almost gone, I spray the panel where I'm working and buff some more. Once the pad is seasoned, I'm finding that I will add a dime of Sure Finish and then buff with several re-wets with no additional polish added. It's a feel thing I guess. I found I need to be very picky at the wool pad stage. I find that the surface has to already look close to perfect before going on to the foam pads. The foam pads don't do much [EDIT: There are much firmer cutting pads available in foam too, and they WOULD do more...I just meant the medium and low density pads that I have...], so one really needs to get the sanding scratches out with the wool pad (the nature of the clear probably has an effect here. I find my Glasurit is already quite hard). Even though I have tons of clear to work with, I still tape the edges of the panels just in case. I found that the speeds that work for me are 1000-1200 rpm. I think you really need a quality variable speed buffer to this work right (DeWalt or Makita are good).
7) Next, I polish with the Sure Finish and the medium density foam pad (1200-1300 rpm).
8) Finally I polish with the Sure Finish and the soft pad (1600 rpm).
Any tight areas that the pad doesn't do I do either by hand with a microfiber polishing cloth or with a 3" dia. pneumatic mini-buffer.
I find that the paint is virtually perfect at this point (under fluorescent lights and incandescent point sources). The ulimate final step is to use a quality randomn orbit polisher (Porter Cable is the the brand of choice apparently), but I won't do that until the car is done.
Here are some pics of how it is looking. (I keep the parts of the car I'm not currently working on covered with masking paper to keep them clean).
1) I use a fine nib file to flatten dust specks. (Click here for nib file info)
2) I wet sand with 1500 with a small foam block. (Obvious, but important) I make super sure the surface is completely clean before starting and between each step of wet sanding, buffing and polishing. A spray bottle with 50/50 mix of rubbing alcohol and water works good, with lint free disposable towels for drying. I use lots of water with a little bit of dish soap in it to lubricate when sanding. Also, I found it is really important not to let any corners of the paper drag in the finish, as this leaves behind slightly deeper scratches that you don't really see until later (and then have to go back and re-do areas). I kept the sandpaper strip a little narrower that the length of the foam block, to keep the edges and corners under control.
3) Wet sand with 2000 grit.
4) Wet sand with 2500 grit (you will see a bit of gloss and reflection by now).
6) I chose Sure Finish polish based on reputation [EDIT: There are obviously other good choices...], and have been delighted with this product. You actually use the same product for each stage, but just change pads. (Click here for Sure Finish) I start with the wool pad, making sure it is well dampened. To do this, I prepare the wool pad for the first time by running a few ribbons (6" long) of polish into the pad by running the pad VERY slow. When I start buffing, I use a dime-size drop of polish at a time, and buff until it is ALMOST gone. I have another spray bottle available, of water only. When the polish is almost gone, I spray the panel where I'm working and buff some more. Once the pad is seasoned, I'm finding that I will add a dime of Sure Finish and then buff with several re-wets with no additional polish added. It's a feel thing I guess. I found I need to be very picky at the wool pad stage. I find that the surface has to already look close to perfect before going on to the foam pads. The foam pads don't do much [EDIT: There are much firmer cutting pads available in foam too, and they WOULD do more...I just meant the medium and low density pads that I have...], so one really needs to get the sanding scratches out with the wool pad (the nature of the clear probably has an effect here. I find my Glasurit is already quite hard). Even though I have tons of clear to work with, I still tape the edges of the panels just in case. I found that the speeds that work for me are 1000-1200 rpm. I think you really need a quality variable speed buffer to this work right (DeWalt or Makita are good).
7) Next, I polish with the Sure Finish and the medium density foam pad (1200-1300 rpm).
8) Finally I polish with the Sure Finish and the soft pad (1600 rpm).
Any tight areas that the pad doesn't do I do either by hand with a microfiber polishing cloth or with a 3" dia. pneumatic mini-buffer.
I find that the paint is virtually perfect at this point (under fluorescent lights and incandescent point sources). The ulimate final step is to use a quality randomn orbit polisher (Porter Cable is the the brand of choice apparently), but I won't do that until the car is done.
Here are some pics of how it is looking. (I keep the parts of the car I'm not currently working on covered with masking paper to keep them clean).
Last edited by 500; 11-08-2005 at 02:46 PM.
11-08-2005, 11:33 AM
#2
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another...
11-08-2005, 11:34 AM
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Last one...
11-08-2005, 11:59 AM
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Wow.
Just... wow.
It's a thing of beauty... <sniff> Got some dust in my eye...
Just... wow.
It's a thing of beauty... <sniff> Got some dust in my eye...
11-08-2005, 12:51 PM
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The black cars I have owned had paint just like that. After you would wash it...Black Gold! Dragon flies and mosquito's would dance over it thinking it was water!
Then I would run it down the street to dry the rotors...and realize that all my hard work lasted just as long as it takes to start the engine....every little spec of dirt shows up!
Thanks for the write-up. Keep us updates as to what Orbital you use....
Then I would run it down the street to dry the rotors...and realize that all my hard work lasted just as long as it takes to start the engine....every little spec of dirt shows up!
Thanks for the write-up. Keep us updates as to what Orbital you use....
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11-08-2005, 12:58 PM
#8
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My God...that is absolutely stunning. Care to share as thorough a write-up on your original painting process? My black car was resprayed and I would like to address a few areas where orange peel and poor surface prep was less than stellar. Again that is beautiful.
11-08-2005, 03:26 PM
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Awesome looking pics!
That sure looks like it's better than brand new!
Just think, after 10 minutes on the road, it'll have it's first chip, I'm sure. Oh well, enjoy, nonetheless.
That sure looks like it's better than brand new!
Just think, after 10 minutes on the road, it'll have it's first chip, I'm sure. Oh well, enjoy, nonetheless.
11-08-2005, 05:58 PM
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OK! You've posted pics of the bathroom mirror, now put some up of the car! 
When can you fly over and make mine look like that?
When can you fly over and make mine look like that?
11-08-2005, 06:45 PM
#15
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Thanks for the nice feedback. It's always nice.
It's very true a lot of what has been said here. Black is very fussy. I actually would not choose a black car, its just that I found this one for a good price and then I did not want to change the color. It was all a slippery slope that started with just wanting to fix things up and now I agree that I will probably be worried everytime I take it out of the garage (whenever I actually get to that point). I will at least get the entire front end done in StoneGuard, but it is just a car anyway...
Hey Steve (Kuhl951) I have pics and stuff from the painting process and I may be able to help with suggesting some ways to fix up the areas you mention. Having said that, there are a bunch of others on here who have already done this at least as well as me (if not better) and may also be able to help (Dan (XSBoost90), Andrew (Wizkid918), Macfreak007, Percy951 just to name a few). I would suggest maybe posting some pics of what you're up against. I'll try to collect together a write up of what I did over the course of the project for you as well, just might take me a while.
Andrew, is your car in wax yet? I'd love to hear how that has turned out...
It's very true a lot of what has been said here. Black is very fussy. I actually would not choose a black car, its just that I found this one for a good price and then I did not want to change the color. It was all a slippery slope that started with just wanting to fix things up and now I agree that I will probably be worried everytime I take it out of the garage (whenever I actually get to that point). I will at least get the entire front end done in StoneGuard, but it is just a car anyway...
Hey Steve (Kuhl951) I have pics and stuff from the painting process and I may be able to help with suggesting some ways to fix up the areas you mention. Having said that, there are a bunch of others on here who have already done this at least as well as me (if not better) and may also be able to help (Dan (XSBoost90), Andrew (Wizkid918), Macfreak007, Percy951 just to name a few). I would suggest maybe posting some pics of what you're up against. I'll try to collect together a write up of what I did over the course of the project for you as well, just might take me a while.
Andrew, is your car in wax yet? I'd love to hear how that has turned out...