KLR

I had a slow leak in my right rear (about 4 psi per month) that became a very big leak (about 20 psi in one week) after an auto-x last month. Fortunately, I was already planning to replace all 4, so I marvelled at my luck and figured no big deal.

I just put on 4 new tires, and it's back. At first it was about 4 psi in a month. I had the tire remounted last week and had them check for leaks -- then I drove about 100 miles on it. No problems. I just drove it again today for about 75 miles and heard a hissing noise right as I got out of the car (at home, fortunately). Sure enough, it was deflating before my eyes. It seems to be coming from a spot where the bead meets the rim. Is my phone dial toast? I've heard tire guys mention something called bead sealer.

What is this bead sealer of which they speak? Could it solve my problem? Are there any drawbacks? I need the car to be functional and fully reliable by Oct. 8-9, so if I need to buy a new wheel, the sooner I know, the better.

bearone

probably an out of round wheel.

87951

Steve PH

Have you checked the tyre valve? Its far more likely to be a shagged valve than the wheel rim.

Luis de Prat

Ditto. I have the exact same problem and today, pushing the valve stem I could hear the air leaking.

Cheapo tire places reuse your old valves. Could be the case here. I know it's what happened to me.

bearone

when you said you put tires on i figured a tire shop or did you do it yourself?

any time i've bought tires, gone in for a repair/flat on a warranty, they've changed out the valve stem which is the weak link.

KLR

All work done at high end p-car wrenches. Multiple new valve stems, that's definitely not the problem. I could hear it leaking from a spot where the bead meets the rim this time (I literally could hear the hissing and see it deflating). Does anyone know what "bead seal" is and whether that would have any impact on my issue? Or have a 16x8 late offset phone dial for sale?

Luis de Prat

It's a sort of paste that is brushed on the inner edges of the tire when mounting it to ensure a tight seal with the wheel. Usually leaves a waxy residue that you can rub off.

jmporsche944

If I were you, Id just buy a new phone dial.. theres a problem with the wheel if its not sealing correctly, and messing with bead seal every time you want to change your tires is going to be a PITA.

KuHL 951

I had a slow bead area leak on an old Maxima. They said the tires were very hard to seat due to the combination of alloy wheel and that specific model of tire. When they finally agreed to replace the tire it turned out to be a fair size chunk of the bead had torn off the tire during mounting. This effectively prevented the tire from ever sealing correctly; new tire problem gone. I wouldn't immediately assume it's the wheel if I was you. I always use the metal shorty stems that have a nut to tighten the stem. I've never had a leak from a valve stem since and you can transfer them from wheel to wheel if you want.

Mighty Shilling

will those metal valve stems fit phonies?

KuHL 951

I have metal stems on the CC's, PD's, CCW's, and Kosei's. You just need to find the right type of stem that fits the wheel. Some have a concave washer that spans the recessed area on Pd's and CC's, others use a flat washer under the nut for flush type wheels. When the hole is on a curve it can be dicey though. Not all tire shops will have the right metal stem so it's a good idea to source them first if you are buying tires. I think I got mine at Summit Racing, they had both types. Usually ant tire shop that carries a good selection of aftermarket wheels will have what you need.

Mighty Shilling

Thanks...as you may know, I'm refinishing my phonies, and I'd prefer the metal stems over the rubbers.

Scott at Team Harco

You've gotten some good advice so far - so I felt it appropiate to throw in my 'cheap ***' method of dealing with problem-child rims. Being that I have a dozen sets of wheels and tires - I also have dozens of wheel and tire issues.

I often use black silicone sealer around the offending area of the rim and tire (same concept as the bead sealer). This is probably NOT the best method. It is just something us rally people do to get things back together. A new wheel IS the best solution.

AndyK

Hey Neal -

If the rim is out of round, a "cheap" way to fix it is to send it to Rim and Wheel Works in MA. I will be sending 2 of the D90's there this winter, since they are way out. Not leaking though. Rim and Wheel Works fixed a bend Phone Dial I had already had re-painted. Got it back looking like new, all for $75.

KLR

Update -- I just sent all four wheels out to Wheels America to be straightened and repainted. I figure that since I've had this problem with two tires, multiple mountings, and with multiple valve stems, it could only be the wheel. One of my front wheels has a big flat spot as well, so I'm sure that all four probably need it. I was planning to do this next year (the three year anniversary of my Wurth's refinish), but I figure it's a bit silly to keep screwing around given this problem. As always, thanks for the help guys.

Andy -- thanks for not pointing out that I'd have been better off buying those 968 wheels last month!