944SuperCar

Nice!
How's the power?
How does it feel?
Do tell!!!!
A super charger should make the engine produce a hell of a lot of power.

pormgb

The power feels good; I now have a different car. I don't know how it compares to a turbo but there are allot of elements to consider when talking about performance. The older Paxton superchargers perform better when they spin up, if I’m getting this kind performance from my mild configuration, I can’t imagine what a setup that produces 6 to 8 pounds is like. The car pulls of the line quite well but the best performance is at 3k and over, the performance sometimes shocks me because I’m still programmed to the performance of my 944 before the conversion. I have a 98 BMW 528i which pulls quite well and has lots of torque, when I used step out of my 528i and into my Porsche it used to feel slow, that is not the case now.

jlturpin

This is something I did 5 years ago. Eary 944. Used RRFPR, and aquimist. I pushed up to 8psi with H20 injection safely only using fuel pressure increase, 5psi fuel pressure to 1 psi manifold pressure. I got greedy and put the 11-12 psi pulley and toasted the rings. Fun while it lasted, but sold the SC system to someone here on rennlist back in 2000. May give some you DIY guys some ideals. I have pretty detailed photos of the entire system, click on the link to my photos in my signature if interested. It made boost by 1500 RPM, at whatever pulley size was on it. It was an autorotor twin screw, oil pressure fed system. I was made by a swedish company (compressor)

pormgb

Today I finally installed the air filter; it was quite a job due to the lack of space below the brake booster. I was able to use and existing cone filter that I used for my 944 before I supercharger it, the whole unit is made up of a 90 degree 3.5” rubber hose with 3” extension that attaches to my filter with a small length of 3” aluminum pipe, I’m really pleased with the out come. I’m also still tuning, take a look at my setup.

L8 APEKS

jlturpin,

Opcon Autorotor, also known as a lysholm. Most efficient blower on the planet, positive displacement too (Paxton is centrifugal...gotta wait for the boost as it's more depenedent on RPM). Only factory application I know of here is the Mazda Millenia S.

I was running the 20psi pulley on my last Corrado...fun stuff, and buttloads of TQ for a 1.8L! That looks like an expensive setup between the manifold and blower. Very nice though.

inactiveuser92616

This system was very recently sold on ebay by a guy in evergreen CO.

Mark Lue

Pormgb, congrats on what you have achieved so far. It's nice to see a fellow UCR member breaking ground. You got my curiousity going could I have a look at the setup? If you don't mind.

nine-44

Have you checked the TPS yet to see if it is putting a WOT signal out? IIRC in WOT the DME cuts the O2 out of the loop as far as calculating mixture. That being the case, becareful while tuning, the DME won't compensate at this point, it runs from the maps.

pormgb

No I dont mind you having a look at my setup, where are you located?

pormgb

Yep, my WOT signal is working fine because my Mafterburner senses the 0v when the WOT switch is closed. To be honest I haven’t driven the car to activate WOT, I can’t find enough road. I also have a second map that is activated when the WOT switch is closed but based on Wink’s comments the AFM is not used. The car is actually running quite well, I had to remove my air filter because it doesn’t flow enough to supply the SC, I have to look for a really small good flowing filter. I se what you mean about the DME maps being used at idle and WOT, form Winks site I understand the AFM is only used from above idle to WOT, this means my WOT map doesn’t really do any thing, to make sure I don’t run lean at WOT I will have to adjust my FMU to provide enough additional fuel.

nine-44

My understanding was that there is one signal wire into the TPS. Two out, Idle and WOT. No signal is read as mid throttle. In case of failure, it will resort to the mid throttle maps and can limp home. As far as the AFM, I understand that it is always read(actually it will die with no signal). The O2 is cut from the loop in WOT however, and runs only from the look-up maps. This is what I know of the Motronic system.

pormgb

Yep, I believe the TPS works the same way. I actually forgot to connect mine and the motors hovered around 1500 rpm at idle. With regards to the AFM (Now Ford Lightning 90mm MAF) I can remove from the SC and the engine runs fine until you try to increase engine speed, but if I disconnect it the motor dies. This is actually good for me because I can manage my fuel/Air ratio all the way to the red line. I’m not sure about Winks statements below, may be I’m reading them wrong.


If the "idle switch" is closed, then the idle maps are used. These maps are not load dependent so the output of the AFM is not used. Only engine rpm determines the proper fuel and ignition advance.


If both "idle switch" and "full-load switch" are open, then the part throttle maps are used. Most of your driving will be using these maps. The throttle open 90° and the Partial-Throttle Maps are used for over 85° of it. These are large 12 X 12 maps.


If the "full-load switch" is closed, the WOT maps are used. Again, these maps are not load dependent so the output of the AFM is not used. Only engine rpm determines the proper fuel and ignition advance.

nine-44

Hmm, don't beleive I've heard or seen that about the AFM being cut out of the loop on Idle and WOT. I could be wrong. I know messing with the AFM at idle(pulling it open or closed) it messed with the engine, died a few times. Haven't had a chance to do much under WOT conditions. I also know that on startup, the DME must realize an AFM signal to idle or run, otherwise it will start for a sec and die. Dunno man.

pormgb

I have just completed the installation of an 82 924 Turbo nose panel, there was more to this than I expected, was almost a job from hell. To complete this installation I had to remove existing sheet metal for the new panel, I then weld four tabs with screws to allow the panel to be bolted in, the 924 panels are welded. The panel looks real nice and I even had some paint left over for when I painted my Euro Spoiler, this saved me having to go and buy a new paint kit. The nose panel cost me $150 on Ebay and is in quite good shape, I’m really exited that I can now get lots of air to my intercooler. The car is on jack stands at the moment, I’m adding tubular headers and a Magnaflow rear muffler with a 3.5” SS tail pipe. Its really quite easy to make your own system, my only challenge is adding a flange to the cat pipe so I can bolt it to the Bursche headers.

Scott M.

I'm drooling over your project. Keep the updates coming.