andy was that with a turbo? would it matter with a turbo?

 

That intake sucks.

Better to put in a new paper element. In that regard...

Anyone have data, or link to same, on which paper filter is least restrictive?

Better yet, anyone ever dyno test them?

 

the less restrictive is the K&N

power...probably not noticeable even to a dyno. but it might be there. more air = less pressure drop through filter= more pressur ein intake manifold = more power

and the uber small microns of dust that get though arent going to hurt your car.

 

I bought a cone & adapter like that last year. It has made the engine sound a little louder (sounds better, in my opinion). However, I have definitely lost power. When the engine bay temps are still low, like when the car is just turned on, there's no difference, but when it's warmed up I can feel the loss of power. The car's top speed is currently only 135mph! I'm certain that if I put the stock airbox back in (which I will now do immediately) it can do the listed 145. I also notice slower accelerations, but I don't have numbers for that.

What I really want is an airbox with the top cover off, and a scoop in the hood, a la 924 CGT.

Arash

 

Dude...You're missing the point.

You put that filter in area that has NEGATIVE airflow. All filters need positive induction to generate realistic HP from airflow. Where you've located your filter is a negative airflow area (near the wheel well down by the street).

If your idea was sound..Porsche would have located the intercoolers on the 951 in the SAME area. They didn't --- for a reason -- there is NO positive airflow there. The 951 IC (intercooler) is mounted behind the front bumper which is where the MOST airflow is generated - the grill on the bumper is the input area - forcing COOLER air from the ground into the IC as the car picks up speed.

It amazes me how folks create these HOME BREW solutions and think that they've out smarted the factory. The factory has wind tunnels and computers (even back in the 80s) to calculate where on the car max airflow is generated. For most cars, it's the front bumper and right where the windshield meets the hood (an air dam effect). That's why most factory AC inputs are located just under the hood right before the windshield.

I wouldn't be surprised if your set-up TAKES AWAY HP when you put it on the dyno.

With respect to K&N conefilters, I'm gonna set up a MAF trap on my 951 to keep the cooler air around the filter and the hot engine air at bay. I also own a MY 2000 Audi S4 bi-turbo, a few years ago, I ripped out the factory airbox and put in the EVOMS (K&N cone filter based) intake. WHAT A MISTAKE!

I did some REAL TIME logging via VAG-COM (an PC based aftermkt data logging tool) and found that my timing (and performance) was completely F*CKED up due to HOT AIR flooding the intake. This week I bought a STOCK Audi S4 airbox from eBay and RIPPED OUT the EVOMS (HOT AIR - K&N) intake.

In my opinion, K&N cone filter intakes are SNAKE OIL - Don't believe the HYPE!


Note: the oil required to lubricate K&N filters has been known to F*CK up Bosch MAF units on Audi S4s. I'm sure there are similar cases with other turbo cars.

 

I think YOU'RE missing the point.

omg.... why dont you take a gooood looong look at the 944NA intake system and rethink what you just said.

"You put that filter in area that has NEGATIVE airflow. All filters need positive induction to generate realistic HP from airflow. Where you've located your filter is a negative airflow area (near the wheel well down by the street)."

if you had taken time to look (or it wouldnt surprise me if youve EVER even SEEN an na intake system.
the ALL powerfull ALL knowing factory put a snorkel right down into the fender WHERE I HAVE MY FILTER to get air....


"It amazes me how folks create these HOME BREW solutions and think that they've out smarted the factory."

HA! you mean like vitesse kits and guru chips for your car?! WTF are you thinking. if the factory wanted more power they would have put a bigger turbo and injectors and changed the ingition and fuel maps at the factory.

your also not getting that when the car is moving...the air in the hood is pretty much what it is outside..also there IS airflow in the the fenders. but the point is the power isnt gained from the "cold" air. its gained from the velocity and resonance im trying to get from the diameter and length of pipe.

 

================ JY response =========================
Sorry son - but you are CLUE-LESS!

On internal combustion engines POWER IS ALWAYS GAINED from DENSER (COLDER) air. This is true TURBOS (even more so) and normally aspirated engines - YES - I am repeating myself for EMPHASIS. Again, that's why the factory tries to locate air intakes as close to front bumpers as possible (BECAUSE OF MUCH MORE POSITIVE AIRFLOW THAN INSIDE THE FENDER WELL). Other alternatives are air (scoops), and/or NACA ducts in the hood, as close to front bumper as possible. With respect to your "velocity" point, if the intake pipe is TOO LONG, you WILL LOSE ANY EXPECTED GAINS expected from velocity. This why many filter manufacturers build intake pipes that create a venturi effect, I heard no mention of this in your home-brew solution.

After reading your statements, I don't expect to see any performance gains (you'll probably exeperience a loss ) from your set-up, unless you LIE when you post your results.

I'd love to see BEFORE (original factory intake set-up) and AFTER (your home brew solution) dyno nbrs. Also, I'd love to see time slips for BEFORE and AFTER runs at a track. Only AFTER seeing the results of these tests, would I believe ANY numbers that YOU produce for YOUR home-brew solution. If you can't afford track time, get a GTECH PRO (around $300-$500) and produce time slips from this device.

Unless, you do the aforementioned tests to your home-brew set-up, you are "on the pipe", and need to stop trying to pass that $hit around.

==================================================

 

Save your money and keep it stock.

Stop for a second and THINK - if there is so much controversy, is it worth the effort?

Wow.

 

i may be wrong, but i dont think the air filter is going to let you go 10mph faster. and i would be surprised, a lot. if you had a stock N/A up to 145. "maybe" in the salt flats, and "maybe" at redline in 5th. but i think you will run out of desert before your car hits 145.

either that or you dont have stock wheels, and your speedometer is giving you a false sense of speed

 

Renntards.

 

JY the factory intake for NA's adn Turbo is the same. That is inside the left front fender well.

Campeck's intake is different in a few ways to the factory.

1) No Air bix Plenum like the factory intake
2) Longer Pipe from the intake source than stock
3) Intake is closer to the ground that stock in the fender well
4) Cone filter vs flat filter.

I have found the stock air box set-up to be rather good. Probalby not perfect, but difficult to improve on with proper fab and design work. Campeck does have one of the better home brew solutions.

He takes air from cool place where there is know high pressure. Same pressure as what the factory box sees (probably). He is using longer tubing and if done right could get a measure of resonance tuning for some potential gain.

Their are two major draw backs. Is the tube the right length? That cannot be determined with out either detailed analysis or extensive dyno testing. The second is construction. Taking some "pipe" and putting an intake together is hap hazard. The idea way is to use a properly made up pipe with smooth internal flows. The difficulty is that such pipe is very hard to make at home. Easy with $100k of injection molding tooling however.

 

wheres geo when i need him.

i dont want to argue with you...you know nothing.

 

Airbox volume is a good thing. Cone filters are a neccisary evil on cars that cannot run a proper airbox.
Airbox volume reduces the vacuum spikes at the filter, even if it was a bit restrictive it's no big deal with some airbox behind it. Besides, consider the size of that filter versus the size of your intake valve.
If you feel you have to 'do something' to make your car faster buy some decent tires and some track time (with instruction.)

-Joel.

 

Concise.

Guys, stop regurgitating something you read in a book - once you have some personal insight and experience, then open your mouths.

 

Our stock (except for exhaust system,which I doubt gained us as much as a single hp) 944 NA (euro) did an indicated 148mph...with 195/65-15 tires. If the speedo is off,say 5%,you'll still get 140mph...but as you say,it took 1.5 miles of straight,deserted highway to get there. Then,we flipped the lights up,and lost an (indicated) 12mph.