944 Transmission Mount Replacement
#1
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Hi folks this is my first post as I couldn't find an answer to my query using the Search function. I have finally diagnosed that the clutch judder suffered by my '89 2.7 944 is due to a shot tranny mount (it's not the rubber clutch donut). My question is simple - has anyone replaced this and if they have is it possible to do without dropping the tranny out?
Thanks
Alan
Thanks
Alan
#2
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I doubt it..... too many bits in the way and I don't think its a good idea to hang the Tranny while trying to get to the top of it... my non mechanical 2c based on observation of work done on rear
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#3
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If you mean the mount on top of the transmission to the cross member, I had a tough time.
I ended up dropping the transmission while still attached to the cross member.
Good luck!
I ended up dropping the transmission while still attached to the cross member.
Good luck!
#4
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Yep,
You can replace the tranny mount without removing the whole transmission. I did it a couple years ago - only to find out the original mount was just fine. If I remember correctly, it wasn't a tough job. You should be able to find a step-by-step procedure on the web.
You just need the right tools and a jack under the transmission.
You can replace the tranny mount without removing the whole transmission. I did it a couple years ago - only to find out the original mount was just fine. If I remember correctly, it wasn't a tough job. You should be able to find a step-by-step procedure on the web.
You just need the right tools and a jack under the transmission.
#5
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Originally Posted by Chipster
Yep,
You can replace the tranny mount without removing the whole transmission. I did it a couple years ago - only to find out the original mount was just fine. If I remember correctly, it wasn't a tough job. You should be able to find a step-by-step procedure on the web.
You just need the right tools and a jack under the transmission.
You can replace the tranny mount without removing the whole transmission. I did it a couple years ago - only to find out the original mount was just fine. If I remember correctly, it wasn't a tough job. You should be able to find a step-by-step procedure on the web.
You just need the right tools and a jack under the transmission.
#6
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Are you deffinatly sure that its the mount.???
I had my mount replaced recently because of this very same clutch judder..+ found it wasnt that , that was causing it....
In fact i havnt got to the bottom of the judder YET...
+ ive fitted a new clutch, skimmed the flywheel, had the gearbox o/hauled ie new bearings... the list goes on....
The clutch is a SPEC 1 clutch though + ive found it a bit aggressive for street use...Even after being told that it WOULDNT be any different than stock.....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Aparently its not too difficult to replace the mount , just make sure youve got it supported correctly...Or wear a helmet....
I had my mount replaced recently because of this very same clutch judder..+ found it wasnt that , that was causing it....
In fact i havnt got to the bottom of the judder YET...
+ ive fitted a new clutch, skimmed the flywheel, had the gearbox o/hauled ie new bearings... the list goes on....
The clutch is a SPEC 1 clutch though + ive found it a bit aggressive for street use...Even after being told that it WOULDNT be any different than stock.....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Aparently its not too difficult to replace the mount , just make sure youve got it supported correctly...Or wear a helmet....
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#7
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Replacing the transmission mount is easy peasy. No need to drop the trans.
- support the rear of the car on jackstands - the rear wheels are coming off.
- Support the transmission on a stand, having lifted it slightly with a jack to relieve load on the mounts.
- remove the rear wheels.
- take the nuts off the trans momount bolts. If you get enough 3/8" extensions plugged into each other, you can do this from the passenger wheelwell!
- Use the end of an extension from the same side to drive the mount bolts out. If you balance it right with a jack under the trans, they coem out easily.
- remove the fuel filter bracket.
- remove the transmission mount crossmember [two bolts, one each side]
- withdraw the crossmember through the right wheelwell. I had to disconnect the right lower shock bolt to drop the trailing arm enough to get the crossmember out, but I have 800# springs in the rear. Softer or stock rear suspension will droop enough to clear it. If not, pop the shock bolt off.
Inspect/check the transmount, and remove/replace as required. Reverse the steps to reassemble.
- support the rear of the car on jackstands - the rear wheels are coming off.
- Support the transmission on a stand, having lifted it slightly with a jack to relieve load on the mounts.
- remove the rear wheels.
- take the nuts off the trans momount bolts. If you get enough 3/8" extensions plugged into each other, you can do this from the passenger wheelwell!
- Use the end of an extension from the same side to drive the mount bolts out. If you balance it right with a jack under the trans, they coem out easily.
- remove the fuel filter bracket.
- remove the transmission mount crossmember [two bolts, one each side]
- withdraw the crossmember through the right wheelwell. I had to disconnect the right lower shock bolt to drop the trailing arm enough to get the crossmember out, but I have 800# springs in the rear. Softer or stock rear suspension will droop enough to clear it. If not, pop the shock bolt off.
Inspect/check the transmount, and remove/replace as required. Reverse the steps to reassemble.
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#8
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Hi guys. Thanks for all the replies!! I had a go at removing the cross member last night and all was going well until I came to take the right rear wheel off to slide the cross member out.....and the locking wheel nut had been rounded off!! I eventually managed to get it off by hammering a socket on it and using a bit of heat but I lost a lot of time and it was getting dark.
The next problem is that the brake disc is stopping the cross member from sliding out completely so as APKhaos suggests I might have to drop the shock absorber bolt. I will continue when I get home from work but for today I'm without the old girl
Cheers
Alan
The next problem is that the brake disc is stopping the cross member from sliding out completely so as APKhaos suggests I might have to drop the shock absorber bolt. I will continue when I get home from work but for today I'm without the old girl
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Cheers
Alan
#11
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Just to wrap this thread up, I dropped the shock absorber bolt and was able to get the cross member out without a hitch. Unfortunately the mount was just as good as the one I was putting in (sourced from a Porsche breaker) and it's made no difference at all ![crying](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigcry.gif)
Thanks for the wheel torque settings - seemed about right to me.
Cheers guys.
Alan
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Thanks for the wheel torque settings - seemed about right to me.
Cheers guys.
Alan
#12
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Yep,,
Like i said in a previous post,!!!!!,, ive done exactly the same thing...Only replaced my "old" one with a brand new one....
I shall watch this thread with interest to see if you actually find out whats causing the judder....
Like i said in a previous post,!!!!!,, ive done exactly the same thing...Only replaced my "old" one with a brand new one....
I shall watch this thread with interest to see if you actually find out whats causing the judder....
#13
Rennlist Member
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Replacing the transmission mount is easy peasy. No need to drop the trans.
- support the rear of the car on jackstands - the rear wheels are coming off.
- Support the transmission on a stand, having lifted it slightly with a jack to relieve load on the mounts.
- remove the rear wheels.
- take the nuts off the trans momount bolts. If you get enough 3/8" extensions plugged into each other, you can do this from the passenger wheelwell!
- Use the end of an extension from the same side to drive the mount bolts out. If you balance it right with a jack under the trans, they coem out easily.
- remove the fuel filter bracket.
- remove the transmission mount crossmember [two bolts, one each side]
- withdraw the crossmember through the right wheelwell. I had to disconnect the right lower shock bolt to drop the trailing arm enough to get the crossmember out, but I have 800# springs in the rear. Softer or stock rear suspension will droop enough to clear it. If not, pop the shock bolt off.
Inspect/check the transmount, and remove/replace as required. Reverse the steps to reassemble.
- support the rear of the car on jackstands - the rear wheels are coming off.
- Support the transmission on a stand, having lifted it slightly with a jack to relieve load on the mounts.
- remove the rear wheels.
- take the nuts off the trans momount bolts. If you get enough 3/8" extensions plugged into each other, you can do this from the passenger wheelwell!
- Use the end of an extension from the same side to drive the mount bolts out. If you balance it right with a jack under the trans, they coem out easily.
- remove the fuel filter bracket.
- remove the transmission mount crossmember [two bolts, one each side]
- withdraw the crossmember through the right wheelwell. I had to disconnect the right lower shock bolt to drop the trailing arm enough to get the crossmember out, but I have 800# springs in the rear. Softer or stock rear suspension will droop enough to clear it. If not, pop the shock bolt off.
Inspect/check the transmount, and remove/replace as required. Reverse the steps to reassemble.
How difficult it was to align assy properly to the crossmember?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/.../85-on),%20968
Last edited by mattipuh; 04-21-2009 at 06:09 AM. Reason: pic removed (was tooooo big)
#15
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I just did the same thing last week.
Very easy to do, the tranny rests on the torque tube when completely dropped. Then the crossmember comes out of the left wheelwell, I also had to remove my shock bolt.
Should be the same procedure for the supermounts.
Alan, can you give more example of your clutch judder? and Moook, I have a Spec I clutch also and I get enormous judder but only when the car gets hot after a long ride.
Do you both have this symptom?
Very easy to do, the tranny rests on the torque tube when completely dropped. Then the crossmember comes out of the left wheelwell, I also had to remove my shock bolt.
Should be the same procedure for the supermounts.
Alan, can you give more example of your clutch judder? and Moook, I have a Spec I clutch also and I get enormous judder but only when the car gets hot after a long ride.
Do you both have this symptom?