Replacing trans today
#1
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Hey guys, I am finally getting around to it (hopefully I'll still have a job today since I can't make it in. No rides and no car
) but I have a few questions. I'm following the procedure on Clarks garage and I'm stuck here:
# Remove the covers on the bottom of the transaxle bellhousing.
# Roll the rear wheels until the drive shaft retaining bolts (2) are accessible through the opening in the bottom of the transaxle bellhousing. You'll have to engage the clutch pedal to roll the wheels.
# Mark the position of the clamping sleeve on the drive shaft so that they may be reassembled in the same orientation.
# Using an 8 mm Allen head socket remove the clamping sleeve bolts.
1st- There are no covers on the transaxle bellhousing (the transmission I assume) 2nd- Rolling the rear wheels and looking everywhere does nothing but move the CVs....can't see where any openings are....can anyone show me a pic or describe better where I should look?
Thanks
Mike
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# Remove the covers on the bottom of the transaxle bellhousing.
# Roll the rear wheels until the drive shaft retaining bolts (2) are accessible through the opening in the bottom of the transaxle bellhousing. You'll have to engage the clutch pedal to roll the wheels.
# Mark the position of the clamping sleeve on the drive shaft so that they may be reassembled in the same orientation.
# Using an 8 mm Allen head socket remove the clamping sleeve bolts.
1st- There are no covers on the transaxle bellhousing (the transmission I assume) 2nd- Rolling the rear wheels and looking everywhere does nothing but move the CVs....can't see where any openings are....can anyone show me a pic or describe better where I should look?
Thanks
Mike
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I think the "openings" mentioned is just one opening, actually. It's on the bell housing part of the torque tube, and should have a rubber "dust cover" that you can pull out. I think its about 5 inches across and shaped like a trapazoid.
If you pull that cover out, or if you don't have one in there at all, you can look in the bell housing and see the torque tube, and the coupler that connects the two shafts. Spin the wheels so the shaft turns until you can see the 8mm allen bolts that tighten the coupler. The bolts need to come ALL the way out of the coupler for it to slide free.
If you pull that cover out, or if you don't have one in there at all, you can look in the bell housing and see the torque tube, and the coupler that connects the two shafts. Spin the wheels so the shaft turns until you can see the 8mm allen bolts that tighten the coupler. The bolts need to come ALL the way out of the coupler for it to slide free.
#3
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ill tell you what I did when i took mine apart. Put a stick in front of the seat to hold the clutch in all the way. THen put the car in gear. This way when you turn the back wheels, it turns the driveshaft but not the motor. Then lay under the car and turn the wheels w/ your foot or hand and itll line up where the opening is to get to the alan bolts. Mine had a rubber cover i think over the hole but many are missing them.
#4
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Why are you replacing the tranny? I ask b/c my first R&R was due to a blown ring and pinion. I couldn't turn the torque tube b/c the gears were stuck together. Wasn't pretty. I ended up having to start the car and pop the clutch to get the torque shaft to turn. BTW, no need to mark the orientation as you're putting in a new tranny.
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IIRC, there are two covers. One is a round rubber piece on the torque tube. The other is a trapezoid rubber piece on the bell housing. Behind each is an 8mm allen bolt on the torque tube coupler (you'll need to turn the turque tube to expose the bolts).
When I swapped my tranny, it helped to have a really short extension (about an inch) to get at the bolt on the transmission side.
When I swapped my tranny, it helped to have a really short extension (about an inch) to get at the bolt on the transmission side.
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David, I would be more than happy to help you wrench, and turbo removal is something I know very well!! However, I am in Albany and you are like 3.5 hours away from me. . .
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#10
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Originally Posted by MichelleJD
BTW, no need to mark the orientation as you're putting in a new tranny.
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Hey guys, saw that right after I posted. I can find only 1 allen bolt when I turn the wheels (and then the coupler doesn't even turn that much...maybe 70* in each direction) Also- I spun that one allen bolt for 5 minutes and it just won't come out. Is it very long or something?
Michelle- My R&P is why I'm replacing the trans...and I can't get the car to start anymore (unrelated problem..hopefully not a big one)
Ted- I have a new phone + different number, I'll PM you the new one and then I'll grab yours. The car is still sitting (now it has the whole garage to itsself and its on jackstands) and if its not done by Wed...I'll have a day to devote to it instead of 20 minutes here and there.
Thanks guys!
Mike
Michelle- My R&P is why I'm replacing the trans...and I can't get the car to start anymore (unrelated problem..hopefully not a big one)
Ted- I have a new phone + different number, I'll PM you the new one and then I'll grab yours. The car is still sitting (now it has the whole garage to itsself and its on jackstands) and if its not done by Wed...I'll have a day to devote to it instead of 20 minutes here and there.
Thanks guys!
Mike
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Ashton, yes they are the same, but it can be a little tricky to make sure the splines are lined up with teh grooves, if you know what im saying. its just to eliminate any ?'s.