Not a happy camper: oil smoke - now with comp #'s
08-05-2005, 06:08 PM
#33
Jane Bond 007
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So what damage would a blown turbo seal do? Do I need to have it rebuilt or buy a new one? WOuld a blown seal (can't stop thinking about Kip Adotta - "leave my private life out of it and fix the damn thing!") smoke more under boost? It seems the less the rpm's, the more the car smokes. That's a bit counter-intuitive to me. 
08-05-2005, 06:23 PM
#34
Campeck Rulez
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maybe the higher the revs..the faster your going...and the smoke is diluted with the swirling air in the back of the car more so you cant see. maybe it smokes the same all the time?
that oil you see there is hardly enough to cause what your saying. if its smoking that bad and it was a turbo seal those pipes would be coated good.
that oil you see there is hardly enough to cause what your saying. if its smoking that bad and it was a turbo seal those pipes would be coated good.
08-05-2005, 06:25 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Ok its really unlikely to be a headgasket. A bad headgasket would not cause all cylinders to get oil, the passages are only in certain places, I would have to look at a gasket to be more specific.
The problem is most likely to be poor ring seal or valve stem seals. 120 psi is very low, I always see over 130, sometimes up to 150 on a good motor. That indicates rings. Look in the bores with a boreoscope and check for scratches. When the rings break they scratch. Edit, have you changed the combustion chamber size at all (different pistons, rods, crank?) I did not take into account that you may have lowered compression the healthy way.
Who rebuilt the head and are you sure they installed the valve stem seals all the way? It is tricky to get them tapped down far enough. That would cause the smoking.
Good luck
"that oil you see there is hardly enough to cause what your saying. if its smoking that bad and it was a turbo seal those pipes would be coated good."
I trust you have experience with this Campeck
The problem is most likely to be poor ring seal or valve stem seals. 120 psi is very low, I always see over 130, sometimes up to 150 on a good motor. That indicates rings. Look in the bores with a boreoscope and check for scratches. When the rings break they scratch. Edit, have you changed the combustion chamber size at all (different pistons, rods, crank?) I did not take into account that you may have lowered compression the healthy way.
Who rebuilt the head and are you sure they installed the valve stem seals all the way? It is tricky to get them tapped down far enough. That would cause the smoking.
Good luck
"that oil you see there is hardly enough to cause what your saying. if its smoking that bad and it was a turbo seal those pipes would be coated good."
I trust you have experience with this Campeck
Last edited by mark944turbo; 08-05-2005 at 06:28 PM. Reason: campeck
08-05-2005, 06:33 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by mark944turbo
The problem is most likely to be poor ring seal or valve stem seals. 120 psi is very low, I always see over 130, sometimes up to 150 on a good motor. That indicates rings. Look in the bores with a boreoscope and check for scratches. When the rings break they scratch.
Who rebuilt the head and are you sure they installed the valve stem seals all the way? It is tricky to get them tapped down far enough. That would cause the smoking.
Good luck
Who rebuilt the head and are you sure they installed the valve stem seals all the way? It is tricky to get them tapped down far enough. That would cause the smoking.
Good luck
A leakdown will give a better idea of engine condition, if rings or valve stems are a problem it will show, if not then they can be ruled out.
Did you prime the turbo before starting ??
08-05-2005, 06:38 PM
#38
Three Wheelin'
David, bad valve stem seals and or guides will not show up in a leakdown or compression test. They are blocked off when the valve closes, and that is when the said readings are taken.
Drive a little more, pull the intake manifold, and look at the backs of the intake valves. If they are wet with oil (not fuel) then you have found your problem, valve stem seals and or seats.
Drive a little more, pull the intake manifold, and look at the backs of the intake valves. If they are wet with oil (not fuel) then you have found your problem, valve stem seals and or seats.
08-05-2005, 08:20 PM
#39
Jane Bond 007
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WOuld a problem with the valves come on suddenly? There was no build-up to this. I drove it for nearly 1000 miles with no burning oil, then took it for a drive (albeit the first with boost) and now burning oil. Ashton - my first thought was the same as yours, but I specifically watched to see if it was "diluted" in the air. When I let off the gas to change gears, the rpm's dropped and a larger puff of smoke appeared. There was no appreciable change in speed. I believe that it nearly goes away at around 3500-4000 rpm; around turbo spool-up revs.
David - crankcase is vented to a Lindsey crank breather. AOS was drilled for more output. New seals in the AOS. Also, I forgot to open the TB when I did the test (don't know how I could w/o another person or remote starter) so that may account for the lower numbers. However, there was not one iota of difference b/t cylinders. Ring seating does not strike me as a sudden thing. I believe I would have been burning oil since I cranked it. I checked the tail of the car yesterday and there was only soot from the rich running condition. Now it's covered with oil.
Mark - I did not lower the compression the healthy way
The bore and stroke are original. The only internal mods were lightened and perp drilled crank and thermal coating on the pistons.
David - crankcase is vented to a Lindsey crank breather. AOS was drilled for more output. New seals in the AOS. Also, I forgot to open the TB when I did the test (don't know how I could w/o another person or remote starter) so that may account for the lower numbers. However, there was not one iota of difference b/t cylinders. Ring seating does not strike me as a sudden thing. I believe I would have been burning oil since I cranked it. I checked the tail of the car yesterday and there was only soot from the rich running condition. Now it's covered with oil.
Mark - I did not lower the compression the healthy way
The bore and stroke are original. The only internal mods were lightened and perp drilled crank and thermal coating on the pistons.
08-05-2005, 08:34 PM
#40
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Originally Posted by MichelleJD
WOuld a problem with the valves come on suddenly? There was no build-up to this. I drove it for nearly 1000 miles with no burning oil, then took it for a drive (albeit the first with boost) and now burning oil. Ashton - my first thought was the same as yours, but I specifically watched to see if it was "diluted" in the air. When I let off the gas to change gears, the rpm's dropped and a larger puff of smoke appeared. There was no appreciable change in speed. I believe that it nearly goes away at around 3500-4000 rpm; around turbo spool-up revs.
David - crankcase is vented to a Lindsey crank breather. AOS was drilled for more output. New seals in the AOS. Also, I forgot to open the TB when I did the test (don't know how I could w/o another person or remote starter) so that may account for the lower numbers. However, there was not one iota of difference b/t cylinders. Ring seating does not strike me as a sudden thing. I believe I would have been burning oil since I cranked it. I checked the tail of the car yesterday and there was only soot from the rich running condition. Now it's covered with oil.
Mark - I did not lower the compression the healthy way The bore and stroke are original. The only internal mods were lightened and perp drilled crank and thermal coating on the pistons.
David - crankcase is vented to a Lindsey crank breather. AOS was drilled for more output. New seals in the AOS. Also, I forgot to open the TB when I did the test (don't know how I could w/o another person or remote starter) so that may account for the lower numbers. However, there was not one iota of difference b/t cylinders. Ring seating does not strike me as a sudden thing. I believe I would have been burning oil since I cranked it. I checked the tail of the car yesterday and there was only soot from the rich running condition. Now it's covered with oil.
Mark - I did not lower the compression the healthy way
The bore and stroke are original. The only internal mods were lightened and perp drilled crank and thermal coating on the pistons.I have had valve stem seals pop........and you can get some WILD smoking.
BUT in your case you have oil in your throttle body, a little pool in the pipes.
Only 2 places where that can come from.......but you have a lindsey catch can..........So that leaves only turbo seals.
08-05-2005, 08:48 PM
#41
I vote for the turbo seals. I just don't see how rings or valve stem seals would fail so suddenly. And since it really is oil and not anti-freeze I just can't believe it's the head gasket. I am fairly certain that there is only one oil pressurized passage through the head gasket located near the number 4 cylinder. If the HG blew to the point that this passage is dumping oil number 4, I just can't imagine that you would see no evidence of oil in the coolant. Is the turbo new? Hopefully it has a warantee...
Good luck Michelle.
Good luck Michelle.
08-05-2005, 09:11 PM
#42
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Is your catch can open to atmosphere ?? I think this is what Special Tool's question relates to.
If so I suggest you route a hose back to the j-boot ( do a search under Moroso ) the turbo will not drain very well without a vacuum pulled on it, if can is open then no vacuum on crankcase or the turbo.
Did you use a restrictor at the turbo oil inlet ?
Could just be as simple as flooded the turbo with oil
If so I suggest you route a hose back to the j-boot ( do a search under Moroso ) the turbo will not drain very well without a vacuum pulled on it, if can is open then no vacuum on crankcase or the turbo.
Did you use a restrictor at the turbo oil inlet ?
Could just be as simple as flooded the turbo with oil
08-05-2005, 09:32 PM
#44
Jane Bond 007
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David:
What are you refering to. The catch can has a filter that sits on top, but it's not fastened to the canister at all. Is that what you mean?
The turbo is oiled in the same fashion as the stock turbo - no mods there. Also, I no longer have the j-boot as I have a MAF and SFR hard pipes. Where should I route it?
What are you refering to. The catch can has a filter that sits on top, but it's not fastened to the canister at all. Is that what you mean?
The turbo is oiled in the same fashion as the stock turbo - no mods there. Also, I no longer have the j-boot as I have a MAF and SFR hard pipes. Where should I route it?
