Kelly Chiu

And am wondering how do you break it in? Also the engagement point is so low and sudden that I am bucking the car getting underway. I have gotten to used to driving with a used/worn clutch. Any pointers for the above?

Also for you people in SoCal, Strictly German in Pasadena did the job for 1360 including tax and flywheel resurfacing. Good deal yes?

IMB951

Sounds like a very good deal. Almost half of what I paid to have the job done, although I had all the hidraulics replaced as well. I do remember having a very low engagement point at first, and I actually took it back to my mechanic and asked him about it. He made a small adjustment to an actuator on the ?master? cylinder under the clutch pedal and made it feel much better, with the grab coming at the top of the pedal for easier engagements.

Be sure to watch the adjustment because if you tweak it too far, the clutch wont completely engage and will slip. This happened to me and wasn't a big deal when I found out what was wrong, (I thought at first I got a bum clutch ). Just test it out a few times around the block before leaving the vicinity.

unsigned

I'm almost done replacing the clutch myself. If I could have had it done for $1400, I would have done that... Good deal!

SKooT1027

well one way to break it in nice and fast is just do a bunch of burnouts up and down the block

When i changed my clutch I just drove around like normal, using the car basically as if nothing had changed. I never really thought about breaking it in, but I noticed after a week or two or normal driving it felt even better then when it was just put in, so i assume that broke it in nicely.

When I did the job I didnt touch the catch point (basically because I dont know how to adjust it), so mine is still pretty high like it was before. I would love to lower mine a little, but I have to figure out what Im doing first and whats involved to see if its worth it.

L8 APEKS

Hey Kelly...awesome! I just called them on a whim for an estimate. I already have the clutch and flywheel sourced. They only want $660 labor!!! I'm gonna have mine done over there in a couple weeks I think. Thanks for the post, I cant' wait to get my Centerforce in!!!

83na944

The part of the clutch that wears, the lining, is not very thick. I doubt it's much more than a quarter of an inch thick. The engagement point shouldnt't change.

If the clutch pedal is significantly lower, then I suspect there is air in the hydraulic line that should be bled. If it's higher then the pedal needs to be adjusted.

Mike C.

I don't recall ever reading anything in the FSM or otherwise about breaking in the clutch. Should you avoid smokey burnouts? Yes, but of course you should always avoid them....

Kelly Chiu

I have a power bleeder at home, where should the air be released for the clutch? I understand that the brakes and clutch share the same fluid resevoir, where is the bleed screw for the clutch system?

Also Sean, they can turn you around in 2 days, yours should probably go in faster as there is less stuff to remove.

L8 APEKS

Just bleed your brakes as normal AFAIK...I just bought a brand new power bleeder and you're more than welcome to drop by and grab it.

As for braking in...YES, clutches have a similar break in to brake pads. Easy stop/go driving for the first tank of gas or so should MORE than cover it. They can glaze over just like brake pads if they aren't broken in...so no smoky burnouts or excessive slipping from drag launches!

I can't wait to get my clutch in now...soooon! Just a couple more weeks!

FletchDM

The bleed screw for the clutch is on the clutch slave cylinder, which is down on the clutch housing... just above the starter. It's easiest to get at if you remove the starter first. The Clark's Garage write-up is quite good.

-David

nine-44

It sounds like it's out of adjustment, be sure there is no preload tho, that would lead to premature death of the throwout bearing. There's not much as far as breaking in a clutch, especiallty with a fresh pressure plate and refinished flywheel. No wear pattern to match it to. All new parts, everything is smooth and prolly a few runs around the block and it's as worn in as it's going to get as far as beak-in period.

83na944

Just to make it clear, you attach the power bleeder to the brake fluid reservoir, add brake fluid to the power bleeder, pressurize, attach a hose to the clutch bleeder valve, open the valve and let the fluid flow until there are no bubbles in the fluid.

The only difficult part is actually getting to the bleeder valve, even with the starter removed.

Kelly Chiu

Okay I drove it home and even managed to stall it once, are these symptoms for a air pocket in the clutch?

The pedal seems to reboud rather abruptly, it springs back with allot of force. Also the pedal engages about 1/4 of the way from the fully depressed position. The last time I had this much difficulty driving a 944/951 was when I test drove one in Chicago the day after learning how to drive a stick. I do remember when I first got the car about 2 years ago that the engagement point of the clutch was rather high. Maybe this is normal and I am just not used to driving on a new clutch? This is all rather embarassing really.

I will probably give it another go early Saturday so there will be no cars.

83na944

If there is air in the hydraulic system, the air must first be compressed before the fluid can operate the slave cylinder. So you press down on the pedla it travels some to compress the air then actuates the clutch. If you pump the clutch pedal (not while you're moving) the pedal should engage higher if there is air in the line.

Otherwise, if the engagement is too low, there are some adjustments that you can do to the pedal.

Since you don't have a lot experience with a clutch, it's hard to tell if the engagement point is correct. I can tell you that the stock 944 clutch is very smooth. Actually a good car to learn to drive a manual transmission.

jonnybgood

You really should not be having this much difficulty with a fresh clutch done by a shop. Take it back and they should adjust it or bleed it for you. Don't start doing anything yourself until you give them a chance to correct the problem. If something is screwed on their install they will just say you f'ed it up. Sounds like you have a good shop there and they should take care of you.