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Krikit Belt Tension Tool - LOOK WHAT GATES RUBBER HAS TO SAY

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Old 04-18-2020, 04:25 PM
  #46  
ste1999
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Originally Posted by Legoland951
It appears your balance shaft belt is touching the idler roller in the picture (below and to the left of the gauge). It is supposed to have 0.7mm space between the belt and the roller. This is why people have the whine on their belt assembly as the roller is not made to turn all the time. This is not common knowledge as I have seen shops that charge $100+/hour doing the same thing.
Hi, thanks for the input. I thought that belt contact was allowed for according to the Porsche WSM? See their image. Interested in your opinion though

Steve



Old 04-18-2020, 04:37 PM
  #47  
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To keep it all simple, my understanding is that the idler roller for the balance shaft belt is to keep the face of the balance belt from moving less than 0.7mm and was something I read more than 25 years ago so I don't even remember exactly where. The tension is set with the tension pulley and the idler is to keep from deflection of more than 0.7mm but not spinning all the time. This has worked well for the belts I have done in the past, which numbers in the 100s without any premature failure so it's a practice I stuck with. The belt roller whine will magically disappear every time. I don't believe a 0.7mm gap will do any damage to the balance shaft belt more than a 0 gap causing the idler roller bearing to wear out and seize. The idler bearing is smaller and weaker than the other bearings in the belt assembly also convinces me that it is not meant to spin all the time.

Last edited by Legoland951; 04-18-2020 at 05:32 PM.
Old 04-18-2020, 05:40 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Legoland951
To keep it all simple, my understanding is that the idler roller for the balance shaft belt is to keep the face of the balance belt from moving less than 0.7mm and was something I read more than 25 years ago so I don't even remember exactly where. The tension is set with the tension pulley and the idler is to keep from deflection of more than 0.7mm but not spinning all the time. This has worked well for the belts I have done in the past, which numbers in the 100s without any premature failure so it's a practice I stuck with. The belt roller whine will magically disappear every time. I don't believe a 0.7mm gap will do any damage to the balance shaft belt more than a 0 gap causing the idler roller bearing to wear out and seize. The idler bearing is smaller and weaker than the other bearings in the belt assembly also convinces me that it is not meant to spin all the time.
Interesting. I might leave this as is for running in when I do start this engine but then adjust to no contact at the planned belt check after the engine has done a few miles,

Steve
Old 04-18-2020, 06:23 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Legoland951
To keep it all simple, my understanding is that the idler roller for the balance shaft belt is to keep the face of the balance belt from moving less than 0.7mm and was something I read more than 25 years ago so I don't even remember exactly where. The tension is set with the tension pulley and the idler is to keep from deflection of more than 0.7mm but not spinning all the time. This has worked well for the belts I have done in the past, which numbers in the 100s without any premature failure so it's a practice I stuck with. The belt roller whine will magically disappear every time. I don't believe a 0.7mm gap will do any damage to the balance shaft belt more than a 0 gap causing the idler roller bearing to wear out and seize. The idler bearing is smaller and weaker than the other bearings in the belt assembly also convinces me that it is not meant to spin all the time.
This is where I got the idea it’s ok for the idler to “preload” the belt above, it’s the previous WSM page





Old 04-18-2020, 06:42 PM
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I know this is the official method. I have seen too many belt whines from doing it. The idler does nothing to add tension at 0mm clearance and the only thing it does is to control deflection. I rather have a slight more deflection and less bearing wear/whine, which could cause the roller to seize, which is something I have seen. Then the belt will rub on a non spinning roller possibly causing belt breakage. In a car I bought in the past, the balance shaft belt broke causing the timing belt to derail resulting in bent valves. The idler roller was seized.
Old 04-19-2020, 01:56 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Legoland951
I know this is the official method. I have seen too many belt whines from doing it. The idler does nothing to add tension at 0mm clearance and the only thing it does is to control deflection. I rather have a slight more deflection and less bearing wear/whine, which could cause the roller to seize, which is something I have seen. Then the belt will rub on a non spinning roller possibly causing belt breakage. In a car I bought in the past, the balance shaft belt broke causing the timing belt to derail resulting in bent valves. The idler roller was seized.
When I opened the covers on this restoration I found a broken balance belt, though whether it failed due to just age who knows, it was more than a decade old. Think the idler was still mobile tho. I realised I had been lucky, the timing belt was fine. Question of where it goes as it fails... Anyway the input on this is interesting and I’ll slack the idler by a small amount when in there next, sooner if there’s a loud whine on startup of course

Steve



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