Big E

I think that's the key. Having 2 944's and wanting to do the work myself but never having done a t-belt, there was no way I was going to do it by hand. I did some research and decided, given that I had no previous experience to go on, that I would feel better using "the tool." So I scrounged around until I found one for $400, swallowed hard, and bought it.

Gives me some peace of mind, which is probably the most important thing. But I have no doubt that with appropriate experience, you can get pretty close by hand.

PeteL

I had the opportunity to use both side by side. Once I was convinced that the Kriket is comparable to THE TOOL, I am comfortable with Kriket. I too, think that way too much emphasis on precision over good enough is being placed on belt tension. However if I was paying someone to do my belts, I would expect them to use the proper tools as Porsche intended, similarly if someone was paying me to do their belts I would use THE TOOL.

F18Rep

I'm pretty much with ya on everything said except for maybe 2 little things. Now keep in mind that I sell krikits (everyday) but I'm not so sold on them as some of you. First, using the krikit on the balance belt means using it right at the low end of its ability - not usually a great idea (for any measurement device). And second, I've spent hours trying to make the thing work with the autotensioner equiped cars - I can't do it and have lost many sales because of this. So for 'youse guys' that are using the krikit on 87 and later cars, I sure wish you would clue me in on just exactly where ya place the thing....;] Bruce

KuHL 951

I think it all comes down to there is nothing special about a Porsche timing belt compared to another marque's belt. If you require a tool to make you feel more confident that the job is done right, so be it, it's not a crime. If you can 'feel' a belt that is too tight or loose, adjust accordingly. Can I tell the difference between 28 and 25 I doubt it; can I hear a belt that stresses a bearing I hope so. I'm sure that a perfectlly tensioned belt is the ideal but there are so many factors to prove me wrong I would'nt be able to sleep at night if I worried about it too much. Have I ever had a belt fail (trust me I'm old)? No. I'll continue to stick with instinct and results until I'm proven wrong...I promise to eat crow when that day comes though. All my valves are straight, my pistons remain unscathed, and I defer to the Gods of Good Luck for the past 40 years. I'm done.

Skip

Completely agree! And, there is no smooth side to the balance belt - taking a measurement from one of the cogs is, uh, well I do it anyway I messed around with the belts on the two engines I have out of cars right now and could easily trick the kricket on the low side but not so easily on the high side. Since the balance belt really sings if overtight, it becomes a sound and feel thing. If a shop were doing this, I'm sure they don't have the time or patience to "feel" it out - or, gasp, let the engine run for 20 minutes. So, they set the tension using the "tool". Problem is, as has been pointed out here - though, not so much with the balance belt - you can change the tension simply by rolling the engine over a few times. Yes, we are supposed to do this, but how many actually do? It's only the balance belt - right. Honestly, I'd be happy if we stop hearing of stories about the balance belt being off by a few teeth or simply 180 degrees out. That simply should not happen - there is no room for interpretation and it's just not that hard. Then, and only then, try to keep the belts from singing the blues. Make a chart to hang on the wall - tattoo it on your forearm - get it right. It infuriates me to hear of this repeatedly being done by Porsche/Euro shops - it's like torquing wheel bolts to 150ft/lbs - just DON'T do it.

Trade secret. Can't say. Trust the tensioner!

Honestly, do you remember the game "Operation". You can get the kricket on the t-belt if you remove the roller above the auto tensioner - AND, also remove the kricket from the belt area far enough to actually read it. This is where a steady hand comes into play - if you touch anything, you can easily through off the kricket arm. The 9201 is a little easier to get on and read in this case. That doesn't account for the $485 difference in my opinion though.

Through others' experience, doesn't it seem like belt failures happen because it was too loose and skipped a few teeth or the belt was too old and fell apart. Not too many "Man, I think I was off by 3 lbs on the tension and now I have bent valves". The shop I used to take my car to said the number one cause of fail belts was old age causing stripped teeth. He also said that those who don't bring their car back for the 1500 mile retension deserve no mercy.

User 41221

The concern on overtensioning isn't so much that the belts will break, its because overtensioning will cause the rollers and the waterpump seal to fail prematurely, which can lead to major belt problems.

I hope y'all didn't take me wrong, I was trying to say the same thing that Matt and Skip are saying... regular attention to your belts is THE key, not what tool you use. I do stand by my comments that using a Kriket (or better yet, Bruce's set up!) is a much better alternative than doing it by hand. If anyone of you "I don't need no stinkin tool" guys want to come by KC, I will be glad to buy you a beer AND demonstrate how far off and inconsistent you can be setting tension by hand, with a real live test of the Tool vs "by hand", done several times in a row.

Regards,

944_S_TYPE

Bruce, On 87 and later models I pull the Water pump mounted roller and Guide. This allows for more clearance with the tensioner. Piece of cake.

Skip

Yup - I'm wit'ya. That's precisely the reason I kinda prefer to do it by hand. Too tight is too tight - even if it is the "spec". Car runs, doesn't skip a tooth and isn't binding the rollers/cogs/pulleys. That's the goal, right... goes hand in hand with the opinion that there is too much emphasis on a number. This isn't head bolt torque - it's a piece of rubber. (dig, dig, dig...)

And risk losing our status as all-knowing emechanics, no sir. I'd rather continue baffling you with bull****. Lead me not into temptation, ...

A trip to KC would certainly include me retensioning my belt - to fit more BBQ in me belly!

FrontPorsche87

I have determined that the timing and balance shafts belts, along with tensioners and rollers
need to be changed on my 1987 944 N/A. While the mileage does not bear out the need, 8000
since changed along with the water pump, it has been 5 years. I just purchased the car in October
and found the many of the original service records. I just received the 4 piece Timing Belt Tool kit
with the Flyweel lock, tensioner tool, balance shaft lock and Krik-ket belt tool. I have downloaded the Clark's Garage
instructions and list of tools and will now order the kit with the belts and rollers. Since this will be a "maiden voyage"
into the timing belt thing, any other guidance would be much appreciated. I will have my very mechanically inclined
son-in-law who volunterred for this mission LOL.

ElRicardo

Quite often there are local 944-philes who ware willing to help out or guide. Consider sharing you location and someone might chime in with an offer to help!

FrontPorsche87

Thank you for your reply, I will look into this

FrontPorsche87

Thanks for the information Tom, much appreciated

curtisr

It's not like they've a monopoly on dumb labels.


I promise...


Well there goes my Sunday night bath plans...


Are you sure?

ste1999

Just done this solo on my 968 for the first time, I found the ArnnWorx tool pretty easy to use, comes with detailed instructions.

Legoland951

It appears your balance shaft belt is touching the idler roller in the picture (below and to the left of the gauge). It is supposed to have 0.7mm space between the belt and the roller. This is why people have the whine on their belt assembly as the roller is not made to turn all the time. This is not common knowledge as I have seen shops that charge $100+/hour doing the same thing.