FS: Rear Swaybar Droplinks
05-24-2005, 02:15 PM
#63
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Thread Starter
Sure Chris. You can paypal me at serge944@gmail.com or PM me for my address to send a money order. I can ship immediately.
Eyal, I have considered it and havent been able to come with something that doesn't require to bore out the hole on the control arm. Maybe ill play around with an "over the control arm" mount, just like the weltmeister, which will give me clearance and allow to use an adapter. I'll have more free time this summer.
-Serge
Eyal, I have considered it and havent been able to come with something that doesn't require to bore out the hole on the control arm. Maybe ill play around with an "over the control arm" mount, just like the weltmeister, which will give me clearance and allow to use an adapter. I'll have more free time this summer.
-Serge
05-24-2005, 04:50 PM
#65
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Originally Posted by Serge944
Sure Chris. You can paypal me at serge944@gmail.com or PM me for my address to send a money order. I can ship immediately.
Eyal, I have considered it and havent been able to come with something that doesn't require to bore out the hole on the control arm. Maybe ill play around with an "over the control arm" mount, just like the weltmeister, which will give me clearance and allow to use an adapter. I'll have more free time this summer.
-Serge
Eyal, I have considered it and havent been able to come with something that doesn't require to bore out the hole on the control arm. Maybe ill play around with an "over the control arm" mount, just like the weltmeister, which will give me clearance and allow to use an adapter. I'll have more free time this summer.
-Serge
05-24-2005, 05:17 PM
#66
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It would require welding. I have welded a test pipe together and fixed some headers, but I don't have enough experience or skill to comfortably sell...
The main problem I encountered is the clearance under the control arm - to get any kind of generic spherical unit in there, the bar would have to be several inches lower. Not friendly for speed bumps.
If I do make something, I'll probably weld an M8 rod on some kind of clamp. IMO, the OE design isn't very good and it can be a challenge to improve it without seriously fatigueing the Al control arms. I think weltmeister has done a spectacular job on their front swaybar.
The main problem I encountered is the clearance under the control arm - to get any kind of generic spherical unit in there, the bar would have to be several inches lower. Not friendly for speed bumps.
If I do make something, I'll probably weld an M8 rod on some kind of clamp. IMO, the OE design isn't very good and it can be a challenge to improve it without seriously fatigueing the Al control arms. I think weltmeister has done a spectacular job on their front swaybar.
05-24-2005, 05:31 PM
#67
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I installed KLA ones very similar to these recently (PO gave them to me with the car), and I would add to step 1 that it is much easier to remove the old droplinks and install the new ones if the back of the car is perfectly even, i.e., if left rear is even slightly higher than right rear or vice versa -- which could happen if car was on uneven pavement or you had jack stands at different heights -- it will be much, much harder or almost impossible to get the bolts in and out. If the car is perfectly level, it is easy.
Originally Posted by Serge944
Rear Droplink Installation
1. Raise the car (it is convenient to use ramps but be sure to put jack stands under the car for assurance) and remove stock droplinks by undoing the trailing arm and swaybar nuts. Remove the swaybar to droplink bolt.
2. Set the droplinks to the shortest equivalent lengths.
3. Place 3 steel washers onto the trailing mount stud. Insert the droplink and the original washer and then hand tighten the nut.
4. Insert the swaybar to droplink bolt and place 3 steel washers in between the droplink and swaybar. Hand tighten the nut.
5. Repeat the above steps for the other side. Note: it may be necessary to loosen the center swaybar mounts in case the bar isn’t completely centered.
6. Once everything is hand tightened, torque the droplink nuts to 34 lb/ft (46 n/m). Torque the center clamp bolts to 17 lb/ft (23 n/m) if you had to loosen them.
7. Drive.
Printable Version: http://members.roadfly.org/knechtruprecht/Droplink.doc
1. Raise the car (it is convenient to use ramps but be sure to put jack stands under the car for assurance) and remove stock droplinks by undoing the trailing arm and swaybar nuts. Remove the swaybar to droplink bolt.
2. Set the droplinks to the shortest equivalent lengths.
3. Place 3 steel washers onto the trailing mount stud. Insert the droplink and the original washer and then hand tighten the nut.
4. Insert the swaybar to droplink bolt and place 3 steel washers in between the droplink and swaybar. Hand tighten the nut.
5. Repeat the above steps for the other side. Note: it may be necessary to loosen the center swaybar mounts in case the bar isn’t completely centered.
6. Once everything is hand tightened, torque the droplink nuts to 34 lb/ft (46 n/m). Torque the center clamp bolts to 17 lb/ft (23 n/m) if you had to loosen them.
7. Drive.
Printable Version: http://members.roadfly.org/knechtruprecht/Droplink.doc
05-24-2005, 08:23 PM
#68
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Thread Starter
Thanks for the tip schumi. That's why I mentioned loosening the center clamps as it will compensate for any imbalance. Not everyone has a perfectly level place to work. 
Ask me how I know.
I have no more droplinks available right now. I might be ordering some in the near future though if there is any interest.
Ask me how I know.I have no more droplinks available right now. I might be ordering some in the near future though if there is any interest.
05-30-2005, 10:15 AM
#69
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Thread Starter
Just wanted to make sure everyone got their orders. After watching Newman hoard mail in Jerry's storage, my faith in the USPS has decreased dramatically.
Also, if there is more interest, the soonest I'll be able to get more is mid July.
Thanks!
Also, if there is more interest, the soonest I'll be able to get more is mid July.
Thanks!
