FS: Rear Swaybar Droplinks
05-21-2005, 04:08 AM
#50
Nordschleife Master
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Los Angeles
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Hello,
Eyal 951 here, you may remember me from previous drop link posts such as "the skeptic"
Well I installed these the other day, and now I see how they work, and how their so much better. there bar is so loaded, that these things make the whole thing act as an always ready system. the sway bar responds much quicker, since its pre-preloaded, not like stock where when turning, the sway needs to take out slop in the rubber bushings and (possibly) bend the endlinks, before the sway bar does its job.
Of course the difference is not miraculous, but i do feel what they have done. A nicer, quicker responce from the rear in turns, and it seems like a bit less initial understeer as well... I'll give you guys more after i drive it some more.
~Eyal
Eyal 951 here, you may remember me from previous drop link posts such as "the skeptic"
Well I installed these the other day, and now I see how they work, and how their so much better. there bar is so loaded, that these things make the whole thing act as an always ready system. the sway bar responds much quicker, since its pre-preloaded, not like stock where when turning, the sway needs to take out slop in the rubber bushings and (possibly) bend the endlinks, before the sway bar does its job.
Of course the difference is not miraculous, but i do feel what they have done. A nicer, quicker responce from the rear in turns, and it seems like a bit less initial understeer as well... I'll give you guys more after i drive it some more.
~Eyal
05-21-2005, 04:21 AM
#51
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Eyal 951
Hello,
Eyal 951 here, you may remember me from previous drop link posts such as "the skeptic"
Well I installed these the other day, and now I see how they work, and how their so much better. there bar is so loaded, that these things make the whole thing act as an always ready system. the sway bar responds much quicker, since its pre-preloaded, not like stock where when turning, the sway needs to take out slop in the rubber bushings and (possibly) bend the endlinks, before the sway bar does its job.
Of course the difference is not miraculous, but i do feel what they have done. A nicer, quicker responce from the rear in turns, and it seems like a bit less initial understeer as well... I'll give you guys more after i drive it some more.
~Eyal
Eyal 951 here, you may remember me from previous drop link posts such as "the skeptic"
Well I installed these the other day, and now I see how they work, and how their so much better. there bar is so loaded, that these things make the whole thing act as an always ready system. the sway bar responds much quicker, since its pre-preloaded, not like stock where when turning, the sway needs to take out slop in the rubber bushings and (possibly) bend the endlinks, before the sway bar does its job.
Of course the difference is not miraculous, but i do feel what they have done. A nicer, quicker responce from the rear in turns, and it seems like a bit less initial understeer as well... I'll give you guys more after i drive it some more.
~Eyal
05-22-2005, 10:59 AM
#53
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Eyal 951
what year Miata do you have? My freind and I are driving up to San Jose this weekend to look at one for him, a nice 10ae.
~Eyal
~Eyal
Last edited by KuHL 951; 05-22-2005 at 12:09 PM.
05-23-2005, 01:47 AM
#55
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Nov 2003
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Got mine on Saturday, Thanks Serge! They look awesome. I can't wait to get them on the car. Dors anyone have pics of them installed? does anyone have any suggestions on the best way to preload them? Thanks again Serge!
05-23-2005, 02:31 AM
#56
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You don't want to pre-load the bar unless you really know what youre doing. Set them on the shortest equivalent length (threads arent exact on all) and install them that way.
You may want to loosen the center swaybar mounts in case the swaybar wasnt perfectly centered before.
Place three washers between the droplink and the trailing arm and three between the droplink and the swaybar. They should be properly aligned with this setting.
Good luck.
You may want to loosen the center swaybar mounts in case the swaybar wasnt perfectly centered before.
Place three washers between the droplink and the trailing arm and three between the droplink and the swaybar. They should be properly aligned with this setting.
Good luck.
05-23-2005, 06:26 PM
#58
Pro
Join Date: Mar 2005
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Serge, what three washers? Mine came with one metal washer and one nylon washer per drop link end. So four metal and four nylon in the set. I used one metal and one nylon per bolt, was I supposed to do something else? Also, one of my nylon washers split when I was tightening the bolt. Shoould I replace it immediately or just keep an eye on it and replace it if it falls out? How tight should the nut be? If anyone could post pics of a correct install I would appreciate it because now I'm thinking I did it wrong and my car may explode or something. 
05-23-2005, 07:42 PM
#59
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
1st batch I sent out came with nylon washers. 2nd - with steel washers.
Installation is the same (substitute the nylon washer with 3 steel ones) - their purpose is merely to space the droplink to that it is approx 90 degrees with the trailing arm.
Apex - sounds like you did everything right. I'm sorry I dont have pics - my 86 car is gone and I didnt have a digital camera at the time. Also, I'm sorry the nylon fell apart, I was worried about that and therfore resorted to steel for my later sets... The torque should be 34 lb/ft. PM me if you want me to send you 12 steel m10 washers to substitute all the nylon. Or you can easily acquire them at a local hardware store. I wouldn't worry about it immediately, nothing will break if it fall out. You should replace it though.
Installation is the same (substitute the nylon washer with 3 steel ones) - their purpose is merely to space the droplink to that it is approx 90 degrees with the trailing arm.
Apex - sounds like you did everything right. I'm sorry I dont have pics - my 86 car is gone and I didnt have a digital camera at the time. Also, I'm sorry the nylon fell apart, I was worried about that and therfore resorted to steel for my later sets... The torque should be 34 lb/ft. PM me if you want me to send you 12 steel m10 washers to substitute all the nylon. Or you can easily acquire them at a local hardware store. I wouldn't worry about it immediately, nothing will break if it fall out. You should replace it though.
05-23-2005, 08:10 PM
#60
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rear Droplink Installation
1. Raise the car (it is convenient to use ramps but be sure to put jack stands under the car for assurance) and remove stock droplinks by undoing the trailing arm and swaybar nuts. Remove the swaybar to droplink bolt.
2. Set the droplinks to the shortest equivalent lengths.
3. Place 3 steel washers onto the trailing mount stud. Insert the droplink and the original washer and then hand tighten the nut.
4. Insert the swaybar to droplink bolt and place 3 steel washers in between the droplink and swaybar. Hand tighten the nut.
5. Repeat the above steps for the other side. Note: it may be necessary to loosen the center swaybar mounts in case the bar isn’t completely centered.
6. Once everything is hand tightened, torque the droplink nuts to 34 lb/ft (46 n/m). Torque the center clamp bolts to 17 lb/ft (23 n/m) if you had to loosen them.
7. Drive.
Printable Version: http://members.roadfly.org/knechtruprecht/Droplink.doc
1. Raise the car (it is convenient to use ramps but be sure to put jack stands under the car for assurance) and remove stock droplinks by undoing the trailing arm and swaybar nuts. Remove the swaybar to droplink bolt.
2. Set the droplinks to the shortest equivalent lengths.
3. Place 3 steel washers onto the trailing mount stud. Insert the droplink and the original washer and then hand tighten the nut.
4. Insert the swaybar to droplink bolt and place 3 steel washers in between the droplink and swaybar. Hand tighten the nut.
5. Repeat the above steps for the other side. Note: it may be necessary to loosen the center swaybar mounts in case the bar isn’t completely centered.
6. Once everything is hand tightened, torque the droplink nuts to 34 lb/ft (46 n/m). Torque the center clamp bolts to 17 lb/ft (23 n/m) if you had to loosen them.
7. Drive.
Printable Version: http://members.roadfly.org/knechtruprecht/Droplink.doc