car washing techniques
#1
car washing techniques
Everytime I wash either one of my cars Black & dark blue, I get a crapload of waterspots. It is really annoying. Anyone have any way to avoid this catastrophy?
oh Mr clean autodry is a joke.
oh Mr clean autodry is a joke.
#5
Wax On, Wax Off
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yeah, if the water spots are etched into the paint, you'll need some polish to remove them. As for general washing to avoid water spots, after you're done rinsing, take the nozzle off the hose, so it's the large stream of water, and just pour it on the car. you'll notice the water sheets right off (espescially if it's been recently waxed) and it leaves very little to be hit with the Chamois.
#6
Hey Man
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We have very hard water in my area and spotting is a serious problem. Don't laugh but I use my leafblower to dry the car after each wash. It works fast and gets the water out of the nooks and crannies that always drip for awhile (mirrors, door handles, tailights, hatch). It also prevents the streaks and swirl marks caused by a cotton towel to dry the car. I only use a 100% polymer treatment, I haven't used wax in over 6 years on my cars. If the waterspots are already there use a clay bar or cleaning polish first to get back to smooth paint or clearcoat.
#7
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I use a waterblade and a synthetic chamois. Good results, but it is a bit slow. Maybe I should try the towels rather than a chamois...
If you live in a "hard water" area, the white water spots are probably calcium carbonate.
-Mark
If you live in a "hard water" area, the white water spots are probably calcium carbonate.
-Mark
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#8
Wax On, Wax Off
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Mark, I've used the same technique for a while, and I switched to that from towels, because the towels I used left lint all over the car... a pain in the **** to remove...
My chamois is the synthetic one sold at Griot's garage...
My chamois is the synthetic one sold at Griot's garage...
#9
Nordschleife Master
Good quality terry cloth towels.
Keep hosing the car down so the car does not start to dry before using the towels. One towel for drying and another for buffing.
Keep hosing the car down so the car does not start to dry before using the towels. One towel for drying and another for buffing.
#10
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
I only use a 100% polymer treatment, I haven't used wax in over 6 years on my cars.
I also agree that hard water is the biggest problem. I also agree that the water blade is essential for my guards red paint job. I've had one for over 4 years.
Additionally, never ever wash your car in direct sunlight. Always make sure you wash it when the surface of the car is actually cool... never ever hot.
#11
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Originally Posted by GOBOGIE
Please explain more about your 100% polymer treatment?
I also agree that hard water is the biggest problem. I also agree that the water blade is essential for my guards red paint job. I've had one for over 4 years.
Additionally, never ever wash your car in direct sunlight. Always make sure you wash it when the surface of the car is actually cool... never ever hot.
I also agree that hard water is the biggest problem. I also agree that the water blade is essential for my guards red paint job. I've had one for over 4 years.
Additionally, never ever wash your car in direct sunlight. Always make sure you wash it when the surface of the car is actually cool... never ever hot.
My guess is Zaino's. I use it and its great.
#12
Hey Man
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Actually I've gone back to Dri Wash'n Guard. I used it for years and loved it. No silicons, no solvents to dissolve your paint, and works great on clears and dark colors. I feel it's a waste on white cars. Then Zaino came out. I did the whole full weekend Zaino multi-step thing(it's serious work folks). It looked great but after a light rain storm on a hot day I noticed that the top layers had weird pits from the standing water and car sitting in the sun for a couple hours The Zaino pits were very hard to fill without stripping it back down again. I wasn't about to go through that whole weekend project again; apply, cure, wipe, apply...see a pattern here? I quit worshipping at the Church of Zaino 2 years ago.
Anyway the Dri Wash is so easy to apply, bugs and bird turds wipe off with a damp towel after a run, and it never leaves a residue in the cracks. It's not cheap but gives me the perfect balance of a car that is easy to prep, deep shine, repels most everything, and works great with a Calif. Duster. This gives me more time to drive than polish. The only drawback is having to buy it through a distributor but they are all over the internet. A 32 oz. bottle lasts me about 6 months for 3 cars but I clean them often. My friend gets it for me at cost so it's not too bad. I think Mother's has a new product that's very similar but I haven't tried it yet.
As with any good product you have to start with good paint first, nothing works well over a car with contaminants in the paint. A good wash down with Dawn and hot water is usually all I need to get back to clean paint. Since using a pure polymer I've never had to claybar again, nothing really sticks to it. WARNING: Never ever use Dri Wash on Pergo flooring like my wife tried, made the floor feel like you were walking on ice...the kids loved it though until I stripped it off...they could slide a good 15 feet across the living room.
Anyway the Dri Wash is so easy to apply, bugs and bird turds wipe off with a damp towel after a run, and it never leaves a residue in the cracks. It's not cheap but gives me the perfect balance of a car that is easy to prep, deep shine, repels most everything, and works great with a Calif. Duster. This gives me more time to drive than polish. The only drawback is having to buy it through a distributor but they are all over the internet. A 32 oz. bottle lasts me about 6 months for 3 cars but I clean them often. My friend gets it for me at cost so it's not too bad. I think Mother's has a new product that's very similar but I haven't tried it yet.
As with any good product you have to start with good paint first, nothing works well over a car with contaminants in the paint. A good wash down with Dawn and hot water is usually all I need to get back to clean paint. Since using a pure polymer I've never had to claybar again, nothing really sticks to it. WARNING: Never ever use Dri Wash on Pergo flooring like my wife tried, made the floor feel like you were walking on ice...the kids loved it though until I stripped it off...they could slide a good 15 feet across the living room.
#14
Burning Brakes
When i am done rincing my car i put in the garge to dry off where it is in the shade.
THe reson for water spots it the water on the car evaporates before u dry it off with a dry towel. TO avoid water spots after rincing get your car to a shaded cool area where the water will not evaporate as quick and then dry the water off with towels. That will help avoid the water spots.
Hey Black cars may be a SOB to keep clean but when they are clean they are one of the prittiest things on the road!!!! my black 944 my be hard to clean but when it is it is one of the coolest looking cars on the road (i may be a little biased though)!!!
THe reson for water spots it the water on the car evaporates before u dry it off with a dry towel. TO avoid water spots after rincing get your car to a shaded cool area where the water will not evaporate as quick and then dry the water off with towels. That will help avoid the water spots.
Hey Black cars may be a SOB to keep clean but when they are clean they are one of the prittiest things on the road!!!! my black 944 my be hard to clean but when it is it is one of the coolest looking cars on the road (i may be a little biased though)!!!
#15
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Originally Posted by Porschephile 924
yeah, if the water spots are etched into the paint, you'll need some polish to remove them. As for general washing to avoid water spots, after you're done rinsing, take the nozzle off the hose, so it's the large stream of water, and just pour it on the car. you'll notice the water sheets right off (espescially if it's been recently waxed) and it leaves very little to be hit with the Chamois.