car washing techniques
#17
I have one hose bib with soft water. I use that and a synthetic chamois. Also using a squeegee (CA Blade) really helps. One other thing, dry the car in the shade. I have a white car and that in itself is an advantage!
#18
If you have not waxed your car for a while or at all, I have two words for you:
Cut and Buff. IMHO. Once you get the contaminates off with the cutting, lay a good solid coat of hard wax on there. Now what you use is your business, but I used good old hard turtle wax and it looks great. Once the wax is on, just dry it. Chamois is what we use at the dealership on new cars and works best.
Cut and Buff. IMHO. Once you get the contaminates off with the cutting, lay a good solid coat of hard wax on there. Now what you use is your business, but I used good old hard turtle wax and it looks great. Once the wax is on, just dry it. Chamois is what we use at the dealership on new cars and works best.
#19
Hey Man
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Maybe it's a hot dusty climate thing out here but I've tried so many waxes over the years. For some reason when my black cars sat out in the sun any dust or pollen would get embedded into the top layer of wax. Everytime I would try to use a Calif. Duster in the Summer to clean the car, only part of the dust would come off. I guess that's why I'm so sold on polymers, the dust comes off in any weather without a problem. I only wash my garaged cars about 4 times a year now; the polymer and duster does a great job in between washes. Bug buildup after a run now requires only a wet towel to remove them and a dry one to buff out again.
The cut and buff suggested above is good advice as long as you are careful and really know what you are doing; a dirty pad or too long in one spot can cause some serious swirl marks and damage to clearcoats and they are very hard to correct. The same thing goes for claybars if used without the proper lubricants. I use the cheap stuff (think orange can) on the other 2 cars that sit outside and are not as important to me.
The cut and buff suggested above is good advice as long as you are careful and really know what you are doing; a dirty pad or too long in one spot can cause some serious swirl marks and damage to clearcoats and they are very hard to correct. The same thing goes for claybars if used without the proper lubricants. I use the cheap stuff (think orange can) on the other 2 cars that sit outside and are not as important to me.
#20
The Mr. Clean autodry car wash does a pretty good job without leaving any spots on my black car. There may be a few from spray on the hood, but I can take care of those really quick.