shortyboy

i remember reading someones post on how to modify the early 944 manual rack to fit a late offset car.by cutting and welding in the late tie rod ends to the early rack.who has done this?and can you give me some instructions on doing so.i dont feel like paying $150+ for 1 late manual tie rod assembly.thanx in advance!!!

shortyboy

bump

RMills944

i guess you could cut and weld, but the late tie rods are just shorter - just find out how much shorter and cut that much out, and weld it back together. You better get them straight though. There was a later 924/944 model that used a manual rack setup. If you can find those tie rods, you'd be better off just buying them, but thye are hard to find.

Manning

Late tie rods are longer. Also, the (updated) manual tie rods are female with tie rod ends that screw into them while power steering are male with ends that screw onto them.

Travis pointed out that you can get some metric threaded rod from McMaster-Carr and screw a hunk into the manual tierod to make up the correct length, then use an end from a power steering tierod screwed onto it. Simple solution.

Steve PH

Although the tie rod ends which screw on to the rack are different dependant on wether its fitted to a power or manual rack, the end connecting to the hub is the same. So just get the correct tie rods for the rack.

AznDrgn

There was talk before of making extension sleeves so you can retain the correct tie rod ends and just extend the early tie rod enough to be usable on a late car.

luckett

Does anyone know the difference in mechanical advantage between the PS and manual rack?

I've got PS, but recently one of the rod ends broke relegating me to a manual/non PS rack. I don't mind the extra effort (unless I'm parking) and prefer the feel of the non-PS, but I'm wondering if I should just keep the PS rack in non-PS config or go for a manual rack swap. Is there a big enough difference in mechanical advantage to do the swap?

chris

Dan Gallagher

just buy the right tie rods from a porsche dealer, they arent common but are available.

Dan Gallagher

part # 944-347-033-03

Steve PH

[Does anyone know the difference in mechanical advantage between the PS and manual rack?]

Pro's: The power rack is quicker ie there are only three turns lock to lock were as the manual is 3.5, doesn't sound like much but when dealing with tight hairpin bends or tricky chicanes (on track!) the power rack wins !

Con's: when running unassisted the power rack is heavier to turn, noticeably more so at low speed. There may be issues in simply disconnecting the pump, maybe one of the other guys could elaborate what these issues might be ?

BTW I have a converted power rack on mine (re-jigged to fit a manual steering shaft) It rocks !

luckett

How can the shaft make a difference in the mechanical advantage? I think you're talking about the gear.

Re-jigged??? What do you mean by "re-jigged"? Did they have to cut, jig, and weld it?

Yes. If you reread my post, I already know this. No issues in diconnecting the pump. You just have to make sure the rack is lubed.

Where did you get this info? I'd like to confrim these numbers before I make a decision. Is it in the shop manuals?

shortyboy

lindsey sells them for $160 for 1,just wondering if someone has done this method.thanx

Jakerx

lindsey sells what for $160?

Dan Gallagher

dealer is cheaper

Robby

I'm just curious.... I drove a 931 awhile back & I did not like thte manual at ALL... it was much easier to turn the wheel on-center... BUT, when I would get past 1/6 turn or so, it would start to get much heavier... the weight was non-linear... the feel was not linear at all either... the whole thing just didnt give a good feel.... i'm wondering if this is anything like the way a manual is supposed to feel....? Everyone says they are heavier, but, again, on-center to ~1/8 turn or so was MUCH easier... If something was wrong w/the car, then, it was not a good example for me to rely on... I wanted manual, but, after that, not.... I'd like to try another.... anyone near Knoxville TN? Atlanta or Charlotte, etc? I would LOVE to get rid of the leaking probs.....


Also- it's the GEAR that changes geometry I believe.... the manual geometry makes for easier turning, but, w/out power, should still be harder to turn, etc.... this is my understanding.... of course, my experience tells me the opposite... I could also tell that more turning would be required in S-turns, etc.... just like Steve said....

I would like to make my power steering heavier but same linear response, feel, etc... My Momo wheel made it tougher to turn- 350mm- 300 or 280mm would be perfect for weight, but, would look ridiculous,,,, ive heard of people using heavier "valve springs" but no one has been able to confirm....