PeteL

I always jack up one side at the center point, place jack stands and repeat on the other.
I use the Torsion Bar Carrier ends for rear jacks since they are round and the top of the stands fit nicely. Up front, I go under the frame rails. Never had a problem.

theedge

Ive done the center lift and both stands on one side many many times, never a problem at all. Even having my jackstands under the front donuts, but my jackstands are old school ones that I think my dad made, VERY shallow top to them so they work great on the front. I hate newer jackstands because they have such a HUGE dip in them and the top is so goofy.

I dont use actual ramps anymore. Had one seriously bad experience so I return them. I use some homemade ones to get the front of the car up and inch or two to get a normal jack under the center lift point.

ApexCars

What's wrong with using the front jacking points for the jack stands? The pic on the previous page has them marked do not use, why not, aren't they made for holding the car up? I use the center jack pont to lift and then stick my stand under the front jack point. The point of the stand fits into the hole in the donut and the donut sits in the dip. Is there something wrong with this? Is it a question of hurting the car or of it slipping off? If its a slipping issue, then I'm not too worried becasue the way mine stands fit feels very secure. Also, if I'm going to be under there, I put the wheels or something under the corners of the car to catch it just in case. That way I figure I might be stuck but at least I won't get crushed.

MTM

For some reason they are not very strong. I tried putting a regular flat jackstand there once and it collapsed on the inner side of the circle (the part that touches first when you are jacking one side of the car up). Maybe it only works well with a stand that has a point like yours.

JDeitz951

I do the same. I use the 6-ton stands with a piece of 3/8 x 2 x 4 plywood in the saddles. They make a nice crushing sound. On the intial lift on both sides, I go up high enough to get under the front rail with the stand at the lowest setting. The rear one goes in set 2 teeth higher. Once both sides are up like this, I jack under the front crossmember and raise the front high enough to raise both front stands 2 or 3 teeth.

IMPORTANT: Then I go around a tap the stands with the jack handle. They should make a dull sound. If one rings, it's not supporting any weight. I then raise that side and put another wood shim in. Then all 4 make the dull sound and I know it's safe.

Done it dozens (sorry not hundreds yet) of times, take 15 minutes going up. Coming down takes 4 or 5 minutes, but I always stand back ready to jump out of the way if it tries to kill me. So far so good.

BASIC SAFETY RULE: Don't be a weenie, nobody lives forever! OK, it's not much of a rule, but what the hell. And keep the cell phone within arms length when you work alone. Otherwise, keep your pen knife sharp so you can hack your arm off when the car traps you. Like that guy in the canyon did. That would be cool. Heh-heh.

luckett

This central point does not exist on the 968s.

Scootin159

My understanding is that the factory used these points to hold the car up during assembly. The thing is there's a few differences between how they used them and using them with jack stands. For one, I'm not sure if they were used while the car had a motor in it or not. For two, the car was statically sitting on the pads, and not being lowered onto jack stands at an angle, or balancing on two stands while the other side was being lifted, etc. And for three, they used specially designed pads (kinda like a hockey puck with a 1" steel pipe shoved through the center) at these points.

Scootin159

How would you jack a 968 then?

Lemming

When I replied early on, I did not yet have my 968 and therefore assumed that it had the center jack point: after getting my 968, I realized there was not a center jack point. The method that I have been using for the 968 is to jack the car from the rear jack point and place stands under the front jack plate and in the rear, under the torsion tube. So far this has worked but is not as simple. Extreme car must be taken since the car is not jacked at the same rate (front and back) due to the asymetrical jack point. The 924S is much easier to jack.

I don't really like the method that I'm using for the 968, if anyone has a better way, I'd like to hear it.

luckett

Front: jack and jack stands on front cross member.
Rear: jack on rear jack points, hub where the shock bolts on , or torsion tube; jack stands on torsion tube


It requires doing both sides of the rear independently, but the jack stands are very secure at these points. On occassion, if I'm feeling lazy, I jack it from under the transmission. It is not recommended to do so, but I've never experienced a problem with it in five years of ownership. I'm sure the tranny mount was not designed for that kind of load, but seems to handle it ok..

Scootin159

I do have to say, that for having put so much thought into some things on the car...I wish they had put a bit more thought into how to jack the car up.

JDeitz951

See this thread for more on this topic...

https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turbo-and-turbo-s-forum/207136-jack-rear-from-transaxle.html

Mark Lue

When I was in Daytona for Rensport Reunion I saw 2 different 944 teams putting the Jack stands under the torsion tubes to support the rear of the car, ever since I have been doing the same. I can't see any harm in doing this and yes the torsion tubes just settle right into the saddle shape of the jack stands.

Serge944

I've have never had a problem with stands while jacking side by side.

Scootin159

I remember hearing somewhere that the torsion tube housings aren't strong enough to support the car either. Seems kinda odd considering that the weight of the car is held by them during driving...but I guess it wasn't so much the torsion tube housing mounts as it was just the housings themselves.