Can't Toe In - Rear Suspension Problems
03-05-2005, 11:31 PM
#1
The Carnage King
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Can't Toe In - Rear Suspension Problems
I'll explain this the best I can, as my knowledge is limited on the topic. I'm finally starting to button my car up and get down to the last few items on the list. So today I met up with John (Redline Man) down at his shop a few hours away to do the alignment on my car. My dad and I trailered my car down, got it unloaded etc without any problems and that's about where the easy stuff ended. We had a short wait to use the alignment rack (Not a problem gave us a good excuse to go over some of each other's projects and get lunch 
) So we get back, I pull the car onto the lift and John get's started. Basically to the best of my knowledge the car will not toe in at all, the photo of the rear alignment is as far as John could get it, it stays at a negative toe, 100% of the time, it physically will not toe in. John suggested I check the torsion bar bearings, which I plan on doing but I figured it couldnt hurt to throw something up here. I cannot be the only one who has had this happen. The eccentrics seemed to be in fairly good condition still, they showed minimal wear. The car does show a light hit in the drivers rear that I didnt know about 
thankfully it doesnt seem to be effecting the suspension. Anyway, here are photos from today, any suggestions are welcome to fix my problem.
Our Tow Rig
John's and My cars
On the lift.
Rear suspension.
As far as the rear would go
) So we get back, I pull the car onto the lift and John get's started. Basically to the best of my knowledge the car will not toe in at all, the photo of the rear alignment is as far as John could get it, it stays at a negative toe, 100% of the time, it physically will not toe in. John suggested I check the torsion bar bearings, which I plan on doing but I figured it couldnt hurt to throw something up here. I cannot be the only one who has had this happen. The eccentrics seemed to be in fairly good condition still, they showed minimal wear. The car does show a light hit in the drivers rear that I didnt know about thankfully it doesnt seem to be effecting the suspension. Anyway, here are photos from today, any suggestions are welcome to fix my problem. Our Tow Rig
John's and My cars
On the lift.
Rear suspension.
As far as the rear would go
03-05-2005, 11:37 PM
#2
Race Car
hm, weird. so does negative toe mean toe-in or toe-out? looks like it means toe in.
i've got 1/16" toe out and it sure made my car feel tailhappy on the track today.
sorry can't help with why it's doing that.
i've got 1/16" toe out and it sure made my car feel tailhappy on the track today.
sorry can't help with why it's doing that.
03-06-2005, 12:50 AM
#5
Rennlist Member
How much neg camber are you running in the rear? And was the camber already set before trying to adjust the toe?
I have found problems getting good toe-in numbers when I have my rear camber set above -2.8 deg or so.
I have found problems getting good toe-in numbers when I have my rear camber set above -2.8 deg or so.
03-06-2005, 11:34 AM
#6
The Carnage King
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Originally Posted by Oddjob
How much neg camber are you running in the rear? And was the camber already set before trying to adjust the toe?
I have found problems getting good toe-in numbers when I have my rear camber set above -2.8 deg or so.
I have found problems getting good toe-in numbers when I have my rear camber set above -2.8 deg or so.
Gator if you can find your sheet and post if/how you fixed it, that would be AWESOME.
03-06-2005, 11:51 AM
#7
Three Wheelin'
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He probably knew how to do it without it, but did he ave the special tool?
THe alignment shop I took my 944 to the last time had the same problem. They chained it down and pulled it to spec. At that point it was at the limit of adjustment, which meant that something was going to have to be replaced to adjust it further.
THe alignment shop I took my 944 to the last time had the same problem. They chained it down and pulled it to spec. At that point it was at the limit of adjustment, which meant that something was going to have to be replaced to adjust it further.
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03-06-2005, 12:59 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Dropped the rear suspension since the last previous time it was aligned? Do you have the specs the last time it was aligned (what was the rear toe then)? Still have the stock rubber bushings on the spring plates?
For not getting enough toe adjustment, either the trailing arm is not sliding on the spring plates, or the spring plates have shifted to the rear.
If the rubber spring plate bushings are failing (Im assuming this is what he was referring to as a torsion bar bearing?) there could be some movement of the spring plates, but not much when it still has the torsion bars. And it would be unusual for both sides to have the same problem with the bushings at the same time and to a similar degree, but its possible.
Are the torsion bar end caps centered in the carrier flanges? If the bushings are shot and the spring plates have shifted to the rear, you should be able to see it.
Otherwise, the trailing arm is not moving/sliding forward enough on the spring plate. Because the two parts are dissimilar metals (alum and steel), they tend to corrode quite a bit at the interface over time and with moisture. I would pull the 2 bolts and the eccentric (camber adj) for the trailing arm/spring plates and make sure there isnt alum oxidation built up in the spring plate slots, this could limit the travel.
For not getting enough toe adjustment, either the trailing arm is not sliding on the spring plates, or the spring plates have shifted to the rear.
If the rubber spring plate bushings are failing (Im assuming this is what he was referring to as a torsion bar bearing?) there could be some movement of the spring plates, but not much when it still has the torsion bars. And it would be unusual for both sides to have the same problem with the bushings at the same time and to a similar degree, but its possible.
Are the torsion bar end caps centered in the carrier flanges? If the bushings are shot and the spring plates have shifted to the rear, you should be able to see it.
Otherwise, the trailing arm is not moving/sliding forward enough on the spring plate. Because the two parts are dissimilar metals (alum and steel), they tend to corrode quite a bit at the interface over time and with moisture. I would pull the 2 bolts and the eccentric (camber adj) for the trailing arm/spring plates and make sure there isnt alum oxidation built up in the spring plate slots, this could limit the travel.
