Bleeding feeler post.
#1
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I am going to be changing my clutch master and slave cylinder, I have been doing some reading on the million and one ways you guys have bleed them. My question is is it possible to just put a hose on the bleeder port that goes to a jar full of fluid. then just pump away? That is the same as a power bleeder right? Minus the pressure?
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Absolutely possible. That's how I did both the brakes and clutch on my 924S in November after replacing the brake master cylinder, clutch, and clutch master and slave cylinders.
Bleeding fluid lines is not a complex procedure as some make it out to be. The idea is simply to fill the lines with fluid and push out any air that may be trapped inside. Just remember your H.S. physics lessons -fluid is less compressible than air- and go to it. And make sure that hose you connect makes an airtight seal, otherwise you'll be there an hour later coming up with all kinds of new and colorful quips.
Bleeding fluid lines is not a complex procedure as some make it out to be. The idea is simply to fill the lines with fluid and push out any air that may be trapped inside. Just remember your H.S. physics lessons -fluid is less compressible than air- and go to it. And make sure that hose you connect makes an airtight seal, otherwise you'll be there an hour later coming up with all kinds of new and colorful quips.
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Oops...good call, Azn...I misread his question and should revise my original statement: It helps to have someone close the bleeder screw while you give the pedal a few solid pumps to push the air toward the end of the line. Then have your helper release the screw so the fluid/air under pressure blows out. Then have them close the screw while you release the pedal and repeat.
The idea of having the line in a bottle of fluid is so no air gets sucked into the system if you accidentally release the pedal before the screw is closed and so you can see if there are still air bubbles coming out.
Sorry for the confusion.
The idea of having the line in a bottle of fluid is so no air gets sucked into the system if you accidentally release the pedal before the screw is closed and so you can see if there are still air bubbles coming out.
Sorry for the confusion.
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Last edited by garthfan; 02-26-2005 at 10:19 PM.
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www.stoptech.com has all the brake info you ever wanted to know and they know what there talking about
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www.stoptech.com has all the brake info you ever wanted to know and they know what there talking about
Definitely check out the link; I'm sure it has good info. But, again, not a complicated thing. Air compresses: bad. Air allows boiling brake fluid to vaporize creating compressive space: bad. Just make sure the lines are good and solid with fluid and that there are no leaks and you're good to go.
Good luck to ya'!
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Get a Motive Bleeder. For $45 it's a good investment. I've done 3 master & slave changes and each time it has bled them perfectly in a couple minutes with no fuss. It's great for changing your brake fluid every year too.
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Didn't read everything closely, but I disagree that you can't do it without someone closing the bleed screw while you lift the pedal. You do need this at the end, but every brake system i've ever flushed, or bled, I've simply filld the reservoir, pumped in, hold it a second, let it up, push down hold, etc.. until you get new stuff comingout into the jar, then at this point have someone close the bleed valve when letting up the last few times to get remaining air and last of the junk out. Never had a problem,
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Thanks, I have done lots of caliper changes, and When I was in A&P school We bled the brakes on small aircraft with the glass jar and hose method, but the larger aircraft have 3,000 psi and an accumulator.
I think I'll get a pressure bleeder to save time on the porsche though....
Thanks
I think I'll get a pressure bleeder to save time on the porsche though....
Thanks
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Ditto on what pete944 said. Get yourself a Motive Power Bleeder. I changed the clutch slave cylinder last month without one... bled it manualy (primed by pumping first) with my Mom working the pedal and watching the fluid level. It took like 2 hours at least.
Last night I changed the clutch master cylinder and this morning I bled the clutch master and slave cylinders AND all 4 brakes in about 15 minutes total... all by myself... using the Motive Power Bleeder. I'm sold and it was TOTALLY worth every penny.
-David
Last night I changed the clutch master cylinder and this morning I bled the clutch master and slave cylinders AND all 4 brakes in about 15 minutes total... all by myself... using the Motive Power Bleeder. I'm sold and it was TOTALLY worth every penny.
-David
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It is true that bleeding fluid lines should not be complicated. However, after replacing the clutch master and slave cylinders, it can be a real 'beach' getting the air out of THAT system. It is very common to have trouble with air in these lines as can be verified in the archives.
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lol I guess it's like learning arithmetic with a calculator as opposed to learning it by writing it all out.... ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I've bled more systems than I can remember including on the Porsche clutch system and with two people doing it it's never taken more than about twenty minutes to do the whole deal. Never owned or used a pressure-bleeder of any kind.
I think the key thing is making absolutely certain there's no leaks into the system anywhere. But, to each there own.
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I've bled more systems than I can remember including on the Porsche clutch system and with two people doing it it's never taken more than about twenty minutes to do the whole deal. Never owned or used a pressure-bleeder of any kind.
I think the key thing is making absolutely certain there's no leaks into the system anywhere. But, to each there own.
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#15
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Thanks for all the replies, Just one more question.... I have never used a power bleeder before so I was wondering how it works. does the hose hook up on the bleeder port then push the air up throught the system?