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How to move the torque tube

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Old 02-24-2005, 05:31 AM
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medicboy101
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Question How to move the torque tube

Ok Replacing the clutch and resetting the clearence for my sensors. Tranny is out (again) and I moved the tube back as far as it would go. It is hitting the crossmember in the back so I removed the shifter rod and tried rotating the tube and the housing but still in the way it either hangs up on the axle or hits the fuel tank. I still don't have enough room to get the clutch cover off. I tried shifting the engine to the right as the manual says but the driveshaft is still in the way. Am I missing something? Could the engine have been shifted back I am not the oringinal owner. 87 944 manual.
Old 02-24-2005, 08:24 AM
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IceShark
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You must have the shift linkage forward enough if you got the transaxle out. So if you have the base mount of the shifter removed and any forward mounting brackets removed (I don't think an NA has any since no wastegate) then you should be all set.

Those darn ears welded to the tube like to hang up. I twisted the tube and had a helper at the rear and we were able to slide it back after some monkeying around. I think it would have been rather hard to slide back very easy without two guys working on each end.
Old 02-24-2005, 09:00 AM
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tomc_85.5_944
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Ditto on the two guys thing. I struggled with mine for a couple hours before getting it partially back, then realizing you have to take the crossbar that the tranny hanger is mounted to off. When we moved mine I was at the rear, twisting and pulling, and my buddy was at the front picking up and pushing.
HTH
Old 02-24-2005, 10:36 AM
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PeteL
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Second that on removing the crossmember that the Tranny mounts to, that permitted the torque tube to get all the way to the spare tire well with a good bit of rotating pulling etc.
Old 02-24-2005, 10:39 AM
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medicboy101
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Thank you both. I did remove the shifter stuff and then rotated it and then started hitting the crossmember. If you took yours off (the crossmember)did that give you enough room?
Old 02-24-2005, 12:28 PM
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Red1
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Originally Posted by medicboy101
If you took yours off (the crossmember)did that give you enough room?
Yes. It's only held on with two 19mm bolts. Comes right out, gives you plenty of room.
Old 02-24-2005, 01:45 PM
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medicboy101
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Default Thanks

Thank you to all that replied. Will tell you later today how it went.
Old 02-24-2005, 10:36 PM
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medicboy101
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It worked like butter. New question trying to set the gap for the sensors and noticed lots of surface rust on the flywheel should I cleean it off?
Old 02-25-2005, 12:25 AM
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a bit late, you could have just pulled the sensors up all the way in the bracket and not touched the bracket bolts at all. This keeps the depth set and the sensors out of the way. Maybe a quick run with a wire brush wouldn't hurt anything. Good luck
Old 02-25-2005, 11:07 AM
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Red1
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Originally Posted by nine-44
a bit late, you could have just pulled the sensors up all the way in the bracket and not touched the bracket bolts at all.
Yeah, I wish I'd known at the time that the guide tube inside the bracket would slide out. Instead I had to do it the hard way. No harm done, I was able to set the gap easily enough. Big thanks to Kevin Baker for being there to help out.
Old 02-25-2005, 12:18 PM
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medicboy101
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see the other thread about the reference mark. I aquuired the car from during a trade got ride of one of my CJ-5 jeeps to a friend of my little brother he was going into the army in a few months and broke the tranny for the second time. The first time he replaced the clucth and broke the sensors in the process. He replaced everything had a problem starting it took it to the dealer they "fixed the problem" lasted all of about 2 weeks and then he broke the tranny and gave up. I got it running with a tranny but still had the starting problem after checking everything out replacing the injectors (that did help a little) and going though all of the other points in the manual I was left with only the sensors as a possible problem it had a little clutch chatter so I wanted to check it out anyway. Now I found the the reference stud is much shorter then stated also a third sensor track with two studs is closer to the engine the sensor holder that I took off has a broken off piece to hold another sensor. I cannot be sure but maybe this cover and flywheel or sensor holder came from a turbo or something else along those lines. I have a call to the friend but he is overseas at this time to see what he did. I cannot find a connector for this sensor in the engine compartment. any guess's. I have a copy of dealer manual and the pictures in it for are copywrited for 85-86. I also have the turbo manual and will be looking at that later today.
Old 02-25-2005, 12:19 PM
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medicboy101
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sorry about the spelling in the last one.
Old 02-25-2005, 01:36 PM
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Dude, you're beginning to ramble. Slow down a little bit. The gap from the sensor to the stud can be adjusted, so don't fixate on the length of the stud.

Did I read you correctly, you think the sensor bracket may be broken?
Old 02-25-2005, 05:20 PM
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medicboy101
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Default Ok lets try this

Yes there is a break in the cast. It is near the pivot hole. Part of the casting number is missing from the tang. The casting number between the sensor holes is 944.101.321.0 I tried downloading a picture but it said it was to big I will work on that. The flywheel has two more reference screws on it and also a hole in the clutch housing for another sensor. Is there one or is this a universal porsche part for different applications. I did find a picture on the net of this bracket with the extra sensor but no caption of where or what it came off of except a 944. (I got this to upload) I checked the clearence between the reference screw and the sensor almost .150 inches, this was with the other sensor set to the ring gear spec. So again would this have caused the starting problem? And is there another sensor or was there a change? again a 87 944 na
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Old 02-25-2005, 07:28 PM
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Red1
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Originally Posted by medicboy101
The flywheel has two more reference screws on it and also a hole in the clutch housing for another sensor.
Ok, (on my turbo) there were three reference screws on the flywheel. Two traveled the same arc, and they were on the side of the flywheel closest to the engine. Those (I believe) serve a purpose for some diagnostics, but I honestly never got a good answer from some knowledgable people as to what exactly they were for. The lone screw on the clutch side of the flywheel is the one you need to be concerned with. (My replacement aluminum flywheel only had the one reference screw.)

The gap I needed for the turbo was .8mm, or .0315". I set it to that and have driven 300 miles since finishing the clutch without a hint of any problem. The gap you said you have is considerably bigger. That may be it. I was told the gap tolerance was .8mm, +/- .05mm. That's .0295" min to .0335" max.

I hope that helps.

BTW, you should be able to source a used sensor bracket from places like Parts Heaven or Oklahoma Foreign. You're not the first person I know of that've had a broken one.


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