944 Sloppy Shifter Syndrome
#1
Drifting
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944 Sloppy Shifter Syndrome
My 1986 944 with 170k miles has developed Sloppy Shifter Syndrome. There's a lot of lateral play in the shift **** (over 1"), which makes finding the correct gear feel like guesswork. Will a new shift lever do the trick?
#3
Three Wheelin'
Easy fix.
Go to your local Radio Controled hobby shop and get a section of K&S 7/16" O.D. brass tubing and a package of JB Weld Epoxy.
Disconnect the shift lever from the shift rod.
Drill the shift rod with a 7/16" bit.
Cut a piece of tubing that is just a tad shorter than the pin on the shift lever.
Epoxy the brass tubing to the shift lever pin.
When the epoxy has set, reassemble the shift linkage with a little grease.
Go to your local Radio Controled hobby shop and get a section of K&S 7/16" O.D. brass tubing and a package of JB Weld Epoxy.
Disconnect the shift lever from the shift rod.
Drill the shift rod with a 7/16" bit.
Cut a piece of tubing that is just a tad shorter than the pin on the shift lever.
Epoxy the brass tubing to the shift lever pin.
When the epoxy has set, reassemble the shift linkage with a little grease.
#4
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Sean - If your sloppy shifter problem is like mine was a few years back, a new shift lever will probably help the problem, but it may not completely solve it. I replaced the lever soon after I bought the car, it helped 50%, but I have wanted it better ever since. When I had the clutch replaced and short-shift kit installed I asked the shop to replace whatever other linkage was worn at the same time - for whatever reason (they forgot, or decided that *they* didn't think it was worn enough), they reassembled the car without replacing the necessary parts. Now I have a car with a new-ish shift lever and a short-shift kit... but it's still too sloppy (side-to-side about 1-2") for me.
Bottom line: The lever is cheap and easy, and it will solve most of the problem. If you want to completely fix it, you have to lower the tranny and replace the linkage - more of a major expense. I'd suggest just getting a lever know, then do the rest when you find yourself pulling the tranny (when it's time to replace the clutch, rebuild the torque tube, new t-bars, etc).
Bottom line: The lever is cheap and easy, and it will solve most of the problem. If you want to completely fix it, you have to lower the tranny and replace the linkage - more of a major expense. I'd suggest just getting a lever know, then do the rest when you find yourself pulling the tranny (when it's time to replace the clutch, rebuild the torque tube, new t-bars, etc).
#5
RL Community Team
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Yeah it's your lever. To be sure, pull up the shift boot (leather one, then the rubber one) and inspect the lever's pin for wear (see attached image). You can replace it or do what Charlotte944 said.
#6
Another fix might be the ball cup bushing at the bottom of the shift lever. I also had more than an inch of play in my shifter and replacing the ball cup bushing cut it down to about half an inch, and I can use reverse without having to hold the shifter in place now.
Cost about $3.
Cost about $3.
#7
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You know..........
the 924's and 968's had a bushing that sat between the shift lever and the rod, for some reason this wasn't in 944's
I just ordered a couple of these straight of PET, even with a new shifter, it is still sloppy: Click Here
the 924's and 968's had a bushing that sat between the shift lever and the rod, for some reason this wasn't in 944's
I just ordered a couple of these straight of PET, even with a new shifter, it is still sloppy: Click Here
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#8
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
the 924's and 968's had a bushing that sat between the shift lever and the rod, for some reason this wasn't in 944's
#9
Burning Brakes
could be all that has been mentioned. the "high" nut and bolt with the rubber bushings on the shift linkage ontop of the transaxle secures the lateral movement of the shift rod. check everything up at the lever and check the bolts on the shift linkage. just jack the rear of the car and it is easy to get to.
#10
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Matt: The PET shows those bushings (4 of them) for the 924 models, maybe when i said 924's you got confused with the 924S? didn't check the PET on the S models, only the standard models
#11
I replaced my shift rod, bushing and all only to find out I still have a sloppy shifter. Check, but you may have to replace those bearings in the rear like was previously stated. FWIW - I have my old shift rod that is in very good condition (pin) if you want it, $15 shipped. (Beats $50 for a new one) I'll take a picture, if interested, shoot me a PM.
#12
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Originally Posted by hosrom_951
maybe when i said 924's you got confused with the 924S?
Originally Posted by fezz
the "high" nut and bolt with the rubber bushings on the shift linkage ontop of the transaxle secures the lateral movement of the shift rod. check everything up at the lever and check the bolts on the shift linkage. just jack the rear of the car and it is easy to get to
#13
Hey Man
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If it is just shift lever and shift rod wear, this is still a very good repair procedure:
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
If the slop is coming from the rear like Jonathans is it won't help you at all.
http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech-july-03.htm
If the slop is coming from the rear like Jonathans is it won't help you at all.
#14
Look at what zerMATT951 and kuHl 951 have said. They have the right idea. The lever will wear, and when you replace it, definately replace the cup bushing (IT WILL MOST LIKELY BREAK WHEN YOU TAKE OUT THE LEVER ANYWAY).
As for the shift rod that goes back to the tranny - there is a fix for that too because the end of that rounds out. That is what kuhl's link is for. I'd do that too if your shifter slop is that bad. I bought 2 shift levers in a year because I thought that would fix the slop and the rounded end on the shift rod going to the tranny was worn and in turn wore the new shift lever down very fast instead. Get the lever, cup bushing, and do KuHl's fix all at the same time - it's not hard.
As for the shift rod that goes back to the tranny - there is a fix for that too because the end of that rounds out. That is what kuhl's link is for. I'd do that too if your shifter slop is that bad. I bought 2 shift levers in a year because I thought that would fix the slop and the rounded end on the shift rod going to the tranny was worn and in turn wore the new shift lever down very fast instead. Get the lever, cup bushing, and do KuHl's fix all at the same time - it's not hard.
#15
It could even be the bolt being loose where the shift rod bolts to the lever arm rod. You don't have to remove the transaxle to get to the shift linkage up there. A pair of car ramps and a mechanic's mirror would help though. There is no mystery here - it is a very straight forward linkage. Once you get a good look at what is going on, the problem will be obvious.