Matt Marks

There are lots of threads out there on how to replace the ignition switch and and steering wheel lock. However, I haven't seen one on how to remove a fully functioning ignition switch assembly and modify it so that the lock is no longer functional (as required by SCCA and other rules) and then re-install the switch sans lock...

Has anyone done this? I'd prefer to continue using my current ignition switch rather than go to a longacre or other push-button as the car is still occasionally driven on the street.

Any suggestions or pics would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Matt

993inNC

Matt,
I have done it before, can't remember the exact routine for getting it out, but there is a spring loaded "pin" that has to be removed. It allows you to still retain the ignition switch with no lock. The switch is just a VW unit and is fairly simple to get out. If I recall, you have to pull the steering wheel and blinker/wipper controlers, that allows you to get at the stock, pull the ignition cylinder and at that point it should be self explanatory. You will remove the cast piece that holds the Ig. swith to get the lock out. If you can get this far, you'll see what to do.

Sam Lin

Do a search on google or on either nasa or spec-944's forums for directions.

Sam

AJBERB

I actually just did it over the weekend. I didn't search any of the sights, but I probably should have. It may have been easier. Getting the switch assembly out is pretty straight forward. Just start with the steering wheel and work your way in removing stuff. The bolt that holds the assembly is accessed through a hole under the dash. At least it was on my 83. After the assembly is removed, the fun begins.

In a vise, I drilled out the pin until it wouldn't engage in the column. However, when I went to turn the key while the piece was in the vice, the key wouldn't turn. Apparently the pin needs to be preloaded for the key to turn. So I depressed the pin and used a screw to hold it in place. Then I used two part epoxy to keep the screw and the pin from backing out.

Like I said, there may be a better way. But that's how I did it. When I tried it before, I wasn't successful in disassembling the assembly without trashing it. Not disassembling it was my solution.

Matt Marks

AJ,

I'll need to pull mine out and take a good look as I can't visualize it. Sounds workable, though.

Did you test turning the key with the ignition switch out? Or does it have to be back in the steering column?

Thanks!

Matt

my87944s

What SCCA rule states you have to disable the steering wheel lock? Ive never had my local SCCA say anything about it.

Geo

Club racing, not auto-x.

AJBERB

You can test the key with it out of the car. The only mechanical interaction is in the key "barrel" with the tumblers. With the key in place, it allows a tab to turn the electrical switch that controls the power and ignition. When you have the ignition assembly removed from the column, you'll see the tab where the ignition switch was. You need to remove a small screw to remove the switch. As long as that tab rotates freely with the key, you should be good to go. Once you have it apart, you should see what I'm talking about. One thing though, getting the plastic covers on the top and bottom of the column that covers the key assembly can be a pain. I got lucky, but I wouldn't have been surprised if I broke one of them.

Have you had any luck with the other sites?

Matt Marks

Nasa forums has some info on it. However, I pulled out the factury manual amd the picture is pretty self explanatory as to what it looks like. The rub is that the pin looks to be MUCH more accessible on the early cars as on the late cars.

I think that I'm going to try to grind the pin down as it doesn't look like you can get a really straight shot at it with a drill.

AJBERB

I'm not exactly sure how the late model style is, but I was able to drill mine out from the end by starting a pilot hole perpendicular to the slope. Then move the bit down to the parallel with the steering shaft opening. I thought about grinding, but the pin was pushed out by the spring and wouldn't give me very good grinding force. That is on the earlier that is. Good luck and keep me posted.

KuHL 951

You know what is unusual. I got a complete set of early door handles, locks, ignition housing, and keys from a guy. I was testing the ignition key and seeing how the steering lock would retract when the key was turned all the way to the right and then drop down again when the key was turned off. Then I pulled the ignition switch off (with the key still in the cylinder) to test it, it was fine, and I put the back on. I had turned the key back and forth once or twice with the ignition switch off. Now the steering lock stays in the retracted position all the time no matter how I try to make it drop again. I wonder if this is some kind of "cheater' method to disable the steering lock? Nothing I do will make that pin drop again, the key still works fine, the ignition switch is fine, it just doesnt have the locking feature anymore. Does this seem right?

Matt Marks

Here's the solution - hadn't seen a writeup on any of the other forums, but here's what I did for a quick fix. Took about 30 seconds once I finished drilling out the bolts to remove the lock housing.

The one correction from the notation in the pics is that I used a small machine screw rather than the one that held the plug on. The screw is in on an angle (about 30 degrees) so that it passes between the locking pin and the housing...biggest challenge was finding the correct screw size lying on the floor of the garage use..

I'll put some JB weld on top of the screw to ensure that everything stays stuck in the unlocked position. Only downside is that the buzzer will no longer buzz if the key is in the ignition and the door is open.

But, since you have to lock the car with the key, I'm not worried about that.

I chose this route rather than spend half an hour or more wrestling with an angle grinder as the pin is hardened (once I found someone who had one).

Also, I replaced the factory anti-tamper bolts with standard 8MM bolts and washers so I wouldn't have to go through the pain of re-drilling, etc. if I ever have to re-do this.

seb928s

Pretty good write up. Mine just stopped working one day must be lucky. It looks pretty simple enough to do anyways.

Matt Marks

I'm going to hit my spare assembly with the a friends grinder just for kicks over the weekend. I'll post those pics as well once I finish.

Legoland951

I used the grinder and made the locking pin that goes into the column disappear. It took 5 min once the lock is off the column.