CCW Wheel pics please
#17
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Originally Posted by MPD47
Kevin let me upload some. I was out of town yesterday night/this morning. They'll be up in 10 minutes.
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#19
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Thanks for the pics Mike.
I was actually thinking about going with the anodization because I think it wil be easier to keep clean. My car is a daily driver, and while that doesn't actually mean I drive it every day (I live in the cite so I take the bus everywhere), I do drive it in bad weather sometimes. I think keeping the whole thing polished is going to be a pain in the ***. Won't brake dust wipe off the anodization fairly easily as long as it isn't left to build up too long? I also think so much shiney would be a bit much on a lighter colored car like mine.
I was actually thinking about going with the anodization because I think it wil be easier to keep clean. My car is a daily driver, and while that doesn't actually mean I drive it every day (I live in the cite so I take the bus everywhere), I do drive it in bad weather sometimes. I think keeping the whole thing polished is going to be a pain in the ***. Won't brake dust wipe off the anodization fairly easily as long as it isn't left to build up too long? I also think so much shiney would be a bit much on a lighter colored car like mine.
#20
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Kevin,
If you are going to order the anodized centers I would ask John if he could relieve the edges of the webs first like they do on the polished centers. I'm not kidding about those sharp edges, you WILL cut yourself if you use your fingers to wipe things off. I use a stiff brush on the centers and they clean up very well; brake dust won't 'wipe' off as the surface is actually pretty rough, at least on mine they are. I still think a clearcoat sealer would be a good idea but I don't think that's an option CCW offers. That gray finish on Skips wheels would look great with your paint color.
Steve
If you are going to order the anodized centers I would ask John if he could relieve the edges of the webs first like they do on the polished centers. I'm not kidding about those sharp edges, you WILL cut yourself if you use your fingers to wipe things off. I use a stiff brush on the centers and they clean up very well; brake dust won't 'wipe' off as the surface is actually pretty rough, at least on mine they are. I still think a clearcoat sealer would be a good idea but I don't think that's an option CCW offers. That gray finish on Skips wheels would look great with your paint color.
Steve
#22
Race Director
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"Also, does anyone know if I'll run into any problems running the "track" wheels on the street? "
Well, usually track wheels have thinner rims for light weight. The BBS race wheels I have uses a 4mm thick rim vs. the 5mm thick ones on their 3-piece street wheels. I guess the difference in weight would be 2-3 pounds. ANyway, I bumped my rim on the kerb while parking, which would do nothing more than a nick on a heavy 1-piece cast wheel. In this case, it completely bent my BBS rims and I had to get another one at $300/ea.
ALso found a crack on one of the inners halves, thought I had bad CV joints with some clicking. Turns out the crack was wiggling when it came to the bottom and made some noise. It was the leaking air that finally got me to take that wheel in and they found the crack when they took the tyre off.
So... it's like every other design & engineering issue. A wheel has to deal with compromises in its function and purpose. Too heavy duty of a wheel will hurt your performance on the track. TOo light of a wheel will be vulnerable to kerbs and potholes on the street. From the data I've been able to gather, the CCW wheels are about 1-2lbs heavier than my 17x10.5/11.5" BBS wheels, so they may have a little more meat on them. But the photos above shows the rim to be just about as thin as mine...
Well, usually track wheels have thinner rims for light weight. The BBS race wheels I have uses a 4mm thick rim vs. the 5mm thick ones on their 3-piece street wheels. I guess the difference in weight would be 2-3 pounds. ANyway, I bumped my rim on the kerb while parking, which would do nothing more than a nick on a heavy 1-piece cast wheel. In this case, it completely bent my BBS rims and I had to get another one at $300/ea.
ALso found a crack on one of the inners halves, thought I had bad CV joints with some clicking. Turns out the crack was wiggling when it came to the bottom and made some noise. It was the leaking air that finally got me to take that wheel in and they found the crack when they took the tyre off.
So... it's like every other design & engineering issue. A wheel has to deal with compromises in its function and purpose. Too heavy duty of a wheel will hurt your performance on the track. TOo light of a wheel will be vulnerable to kerbs and potholes on the street. From the data I've been able to gather, the CCW wheels are about 1-2lbs heavier than my 17x10.5/11.5" BBS wheels, so they may have a little more meat on them. But the photos above shows the rim to be just about as thin as mine...
#23
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Watching how others drive at the track, and me too, going over the "turtles" and grooved sections near corners is done intentionally. The forces have got to be high.
Good track wheels will be light and strong to handle this. That's why they're mostly forged and $$$ compared to cast street wheels.
I think the biggest risk for damage comes from running low profile tires on the bigger rims.
Good track wheels will be light and strong to handle this. That's why they're mostly forged and $$$ compared to cast street wheels.
I think the biggest risk for damage comes from running low profile tires on the bigger rims.