rads2

Hello all,

I'm about to order parts for a timing belt job, and I was wondering if this list of parts is complete, or did I miss something? Should I change some more things while I'm in there?
Thanks for any input.

my87944s

I cant think of anything else I needed...

Mighty Shilling

Accessory belts?

Alternator and Power steering?

Turtle256

I am in the midst of re-sealing my 944S and replacing the belts. Give Rennlist Sponser Zims a call, they proved invaluable in the "while you in there" dept. The rep was very knowlegable and got me everything that I needed.

Turtle

rads2

Yeah I'll get them too, A/C belt and everything for a tune up. I need to buy the chain and cam chain tensioner too but $350 is a lot of $$$, is there any cheaper way to do this? Can I change the plastic pad in the tensioner, if so where can I buy it? I've tried Pelican and paragon and they don't have it.

Thanx

Brett Jenkins

Price the whole she-bang at Vertex and PAP also. I think I got all mine cheaper than that, with a new water pump, not rebuilt, but I ordered from several different places.

Brett Jenkins

Also, if you don't have the wrenches, flywheel lock, and stuff, you can get a good kit from arnnworx:

http://www.arnnworx.com/PorscheWebPa...netoolsets.htm

If you don't have the spanner or pin wrench, you'll wish you did.

Mighty Shilling

what he said ^

Zero10

I think Zims has it for the cheapest. I think the timing belt kit, including rollers is $121, and the front seal kit is $39.

I second the arnnworx tool kit. I've worked with it once, and I find the kriket even easier to use than the 9201 (have used both), although, I don't like how much you displace the belts while checking the tension. You have to remove the idler roller on the balance shaft belt to set the tension, otherwise you push the belt into the roller, and it affects the tension reading.

joseph mitro

i got my engine rebuild kit from Zims - their prices are pretty reasonable. i think your list looks pretty good. i was going to say "why not do the chain tensioner too?" but i saw your last comment. my only comment is....i balked at spending $300 for the whole tensioner too. one week later it broke and i spent over $3500 for the repair

rads2

ouch..., yeah I know I was looking at your progress with the rebuilt good work.
How's the the S after rebuilt?
I've found plastic pads for the tensioner at zims, but now you got me thinking.

Zero10

Zims has a _lot_ more parts than they list on thier web site. Give them a shout, and see if they have all the parts you need. I have found they always have really good pricing.

Mighty Shilling

One question, for those with the spring loaded belt tensioner, where the HELL do you put the Krikit tool? that's my only problem with it, I have no place to put it and have it be effective. it's always pressed against the tensioner or the belt cover, no room for it. This caused my readings to be way off, and when I had the belt tension set to what the krikit said was correct, I started the car, and the timing belt was WAY too loose... it was slapping against the timing belt cover.

KuHL 951

This is maybe a dumb question but is the later TB auto tensioner interchangable with early manual eccentric tensioner? Seems like a good way to save a few dollars doing this on the 87+ cars if they do swap out. I'm doing the 83 belts and front seal job soon. I guess I'll need to check out which water pump I have before I order; it was replaced by the PO about 20K miles ago.

Mighty Shilling

I think it might be, but you'll have to do some modifications to the block, including putting studs for the tensioner to bolt to. You'll also need new timing belt covers. my advice, blow up your engine from a long period of happy driving, then buy a new engine with the tensioner equipped. it really doesn't do that much benefit, and I'd MUCH rather not have the auto tensioner... it would make life much easier, because with the auto tensioner, to replace the belt, the tensioner MUST be removed from the car, whereas with the eccentric tensioner, it stays in place and the new belt is easily tossed on. Not to mention, you need to use a 17 mm socket to turn the tensioner (that spring is friggin TIGHT too, so it's kinda hard) and then a 13 mm socket to tighten down the bolts that hold it in place, while you're holding the tension with the 17mm in the correct position...

Like I said, I'd much rather my car was without the auto tensioner... Unless it was a 968 Auto tensioner...that you toss the belt on and go. AFAIK, no adjustments, keeps it in place at the propper tension at all times until the belt is replaced.