David '96 993

How many hours to do the rod bearings (what do shops quote)?

Also, while in there how long to do the main bearings?

I did a search, but was not able to find the answer going back almost a year.

Thanks.

joseph mitro

gotta remove the engine to do the main bearings.

rod bearings - i'm guessing 12-14 hours for a shop to do it. longer if you're doing it yourself. gotta drop the crossmember, oilpan, and various other fun exercises

M758

Well,
I just happen to be in there.

It took me about 2.5 hrs to get to the rod bearings on my 944. So given time to replace and get it all back together I would figure 8hrs time. Now that is of course for a NA and also the manual steering rack made things a bit easier.

Not possible to do the mains without pulling the engine. If you are doing the mains you might as well redo the entire engine. All the seals and things. I would figure this to be about 32 to 40 hrs worth of work pull the engine, disassemble, clean, rebuilt and reinstall. Note these are time for me in my father back yard with engine hoist and no lift.

David '96 993

Thank you for the responses.

Joe,
I am getting the car ready for this season and want to try to do any preventative maintenance to try to prevent any rod bearing issues.

Porsche-O-Phile

What about cross-drilling the crank and using a baffled oil pan? Those seem to be the top suggestions for preventing the classic #2 spun bearing problem.

camelot

Has anyone ever tried "roll out pins"? I used them once to replace the main brgs on a charger 440. They go in the oil holes in the crank . As you rotate the crank by hand it pushes out the brg. Reverse the procedure to install. This of course is after you plastigage. I remember having to loosen all main brg caps to give the crank some latitude. I question if the oil pump would restrict the movement seeing as its driven by the crank. The total job, rods and mains was done in an afternoon. The pins were made by federal mogul, back in the 70's (when I did the job) Haven't seen them or heard about them lately. But I'll bet an older mechanic might remember them. Alex

special tool

Camelot - You have obviously never seen the underside of a 944 engine. It makes a big three engine look like a nancy-boy woosy piece of ****. The girdle clamps ALL the bearings at once and is about 2 inches thick. - FIVE mains, too

camelot

Nasty! Seen one on an old FE (ford ) once but it didn't interfer with the mains that much. Now that you mention it your right I don't think they would work on a pcar . Alex

David '96 993

All good suggestions, but I am limited to the "mods" that I can do to the car as it is a Spec car and there is little I can do (even to prevent oil starvation).

The one mod I can do is an oil/air separater. I will do that shortly after the bearings.

I do change the oil after EVERY track event and look carefully for any metal shavings and watch oil levels carefully.

M758

David,
You may baffle the oil pan and drill the crank as these are reliablity only mods. Reliability mods are allowed this year. If in doubt contact Tim C.

My engine will have a baffled pan and for some strange reason the crank in my 84 motor had already been cross drilled. I was skeptical of the cross dilling effects, but Greg Fordahl posted some interesting information on NASA forums about this.

David '96 993

Thanks Joe. I just sent an e-mail to Timmy.

I am running with POC this year, so I am hoping that they are going to adapt those rules as well.

I want to do everything I can to keep the engine healthy.

Peckster

I did the bearings on my tyrbo while in there because it's such a big job dropping the pan. But on an N/A, it seems like a lot when it's not a big deal getting in there. If your oil pressure is good and there's no noise, I wouldn't bother.