Mighty Shilling

Ok, Just put a new oil pan gasket on the 924S because the last one was leaking all over the place. I tossed the oil in today and went snowboarding for the day, using a different car. got back, it's seeping from the front below the oil pump.

Do I need to re-do the oil pan gasket or can I toss some JB weld or something on there to hold it tight? we just got the cross member back on last night and filled it with a fresh pan of Mobil 1 (Not Cheap).

Chris_924s

Double check the torque on all the bolts, center out in an X pattern. IIRC (i'm guessing from memory here) It's like 4#, then 8# then 12#, the torque sequence is very important.

Did the old gasket come off cleanly? the new gasket shouldnt need any sealant.

I also used threadlock on my bolts so they wouldnt vibrate out again

Mighty Shilling

Well, first off, I hate to say, my torque wrench does not go below 10 ft-lbs, so I used the "calibrated wrist" tool.

Second, the old gasket came off cleanly, and we DID use sealant...is that a no-no? should I go in and remove it from the pan and get a new gasket? ($$$)

Finally, I thought it was torqued to 4 ft-lbs to 7 ft-lbs.

Didn't use the threadlocker.

Thanks for the reply Chris...I'm just angry and tired from a day of carving up the snow.

Peckster

Go for the JB Weld! Not. JB weld is crap.

Charlie

Clark's Garage has a very good write up on putting on the oil pan gasket. I would highly suggest reading their write up.
Charlie

Chris_924s

Geoff, I had to rent a proper torque wrench for the job. the sequence of bolts and 3 x retorque is mandatory on this one.

Mighty Shilling

Maybe I'll just go buy a torque wrench that goes that low...can't have too many tools... I did the propper sequence, just not the same ammount. I'll go double check the torque specs. I used the ones in the Haynes manual. Looks like tomorrow, I'm off to buy tools and more oil

Mighty Shilling

Ok, according to Clark's Garage, step 1: install bolts
Step 2: 3 ft-lbs
step 3: 6 ft-lbs

Chris_924s

Nope, IIRC i used a 3 x bolt sequence, last around 12 Ft-lbs. This is all from memory- I'll do some checking and post back.

EDIT- I stand corrected, 2X. Clarks Garage states 6 ft-lbs..

Chris_924s

From Clarks- Thanks for a tremendous resource!
Quote:

Remove the old oil pan gasket from the pan and install the new gasket onto the pan. Apply appropriate sealant to the corner areas of the oil pan gasket (refer to the discussion on sealants found in the Introduction section). I found it much easier to install the pan when I applied a small amount of adhesive in various locations around the outside edge of the gasket to hold it in place while installing the pan. I used 3M Trim Adhesive. However, DO NOT USE too much adhesive and only apply it to the very outside edge of the gasket or it will interfere with the gaskets sealing ability.

NOTE
In order to ensure a proper seal on the oil pan gasket, it is imperative that the torque specs and torquing sequence for the oil pan bolts be strictly adhered to. DO NOT overtorque the oil pan bolts.


Install the pan onto the crankcase using the mounting bolts but, do no fully tighten the bolts. Once all the bolts are installed tighten them using the torque specs and sequence shown below:

Step 1 - Install bolts
Step 2 - 4 Nm (3 ft-lbs)
Step 3 - 8 Nm (6 ft-lbs)

joseph mitro

hey geoff - i had a similar situation but at least my engine was out of the car. i installed the pan once using black RTV gasket sealant, torqued it down to fingertight, then 3, then 6 ft lb.

then i realized i left out the pickup tube seal, so i had to remove the oilpan, install it, and reseal the gasket. i used 3M adhesive to seal the pan the second time around, as suggested by Danno. do a search on his "bombproof" oilpan sealing method. it will probably help out.

mine is now leaking slightly at the rear after having put 80 miles on the new engine, so time will tell how this will hold. part of the problem may be that the oilpan was torqued twice.

Porsche-O-Phile

Did you seal the corners with either silastec or yamabond (LIKE YOU'RE SUPPOSED TO)?

Mighty Shilling

Awesome. thanks everyone for your help!

Danno, I'm gonna give your method a shot...I also did the oil pressure releif valve method of yours...for that, it's put the 4 bolts in the housing tight enough to hold it to the engine, then put in the valve, torque that down, and then torque down the housing?

Danno

"I also did the oil pressure releif valve method of yours...for that, it's put the 4 bolts in the housing tight enough to hold it to the engine, then put in the valve, torque that down, and then torque down the housing?"

Yup, sounds about right. You actually want to have the 4 bolts loose enough so that you can slide the housing around to center the hole for the valve. Then insert the valve while you're sliding the housing around. When it's centered, the valve will go in easily. Then tighten the bolts.

M758

I have done a couple oil pans. The key is to run through the torque sequence 5 or 6 times. Run #1 down finger tight and follow the sequence. What you will find is that the #1 bolt is no longer finger tight. Same for #2, 3 etc. So finger tight it again and run through the sequence. You will need to finger tight it few times. You know when you are done when #1 is still finger tight after running the sequence.

Now you can begin to actully apply torque to the bolts. By they time you are done you will have torqued it down 5-6 times. I have never used sealant, but both times I did this it was in an engine stand so the gasket was not slipping around at all.