alarm box in early 944
#1
Burning Brakes
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alarm box in early 944
I pulled out the alarm box. Prior to installing the jumpers described in Clark's Garage I tried starting the car. The car started OK !
I believe the car shouldn't start. Can someone confirm it?
Probably the PO had it rewired somehow...
I believe the car shouldn't start. Can someone confirm it?
Probably the PO had it rewired somehow...
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I was wondering if someone could test it on his/her car, i.e. disconnect the alarm box, and see if you can start the car. The alarm box is behind the radio, and can be accessed after removing the the lower console panel on the passenger side (4 screws).
Thanks.
Thanks.
#4
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indeed, there is a separate lock cylinder near the driver's door, but I don't have the key. Does it mean that if the cylinder was left in the "alarm inactive" position, one could remove the the alarm box, and still start the car?
Does anybody know exactly how the alarm is set up on early 944?
It's important to me, because I'll be doing electrical troubleshoothing of DME related stuff, and would like to know if the hookup in my car is as specifid by the factory, or PO modified, etc
Does anybody know exactly how the alarm is set up on early 944?
It's important to me, because I'll be doing electrical troubleshoothing of DME related stuff, and would like to know if the hookup in my car is as specifid by the factory, or PO modified, etc
#5
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Originally Posted by Stan944
indeed, there is a separate lock cylinder near the driver's door, but I don't have the key. Does it mean that if the cylinder was left in the "alarm inactive" position, one could remove the the alarm box, and still start the car.
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I actually have the key (I think) but it doesn't turn the lock - must be corroded mechanism. I don't care too much about the alarm, but am trying to troubleshoot if this might be related to my engine stalling problem.
I have the schematic from the FSM, but it's incomplete, and I can't understand how it works. Is it just one power line to the DME that gets disconnected, or more?
I have the schematic from the FSM, but it's incomplete, and I can't understand how it works. Is it just one power line to the DME that gets disconnected, or more?
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#8
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Thanks Adam, it's very interesting.
Just had a funny thought: removing the alarm box may be a way of protecting the car: the thief drives away, the batery keeps getting discharged, and the thief gets stranded half an hour later!
Just had a funny thought: removing the alarm box may be a way of protecting the car: the thief drives away, the batery keeps getting discharged, and the thief gets stranded half an hour later!
#9
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Hi Stan,
My 931 has the same factory alarm system. With the alarm key turned 90degrees in the lock, the engine would turn over but it definitely would not start. My lock was stiff too, bathe it in WD40...
As to your engine stalling, I had the same problem, turned out to be a bad (dirty) connection at the box.
Arthur
My 931 has the same factory alarm system. With the alarm key turned 90degrees in the lock, the engine would turn over but it definitely would not start. My lock was stiff too, bathe it in WD40...
As to your engine stalling, I had the same problem, turned out to be a bad (dirty) connection at the box.
Arthur
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Well, looks like there is no single answer to my question, strange...
Arthur, was it a connection at the ALARM box you're talking about?
I'm getting really tired of my stalling problem. I'm afraid to drive to work now, cause I drive in heavy traffic. Much of the time there is nowhere to pull over in case it stalls again, there are stop and go section, and people would kill me if I got stalled and started testing the car. I installed a few test circuits, I carry the jumpers to bypass the alarm box, but it didn't happen for the last few days. At this rate, I won't fix it by the summer... I wish it just stalled permanently, so that I could properly diagnose the problem.
Arthur, was it a connection at the ALARM box you're talking about?
I'm getting really tired of my stalling problem. I'm afraid to drive to work now, cause I drive in heavy traffic. Much of the time there is nowhere to pull over in case it stalls again, there are stop and go section, and people would kill me if I got stalled and started testing the car. I installed a few test circuits, I carry the jumpers to bypass the alarm box, but it didn't happen for the last few days. At this rate, I won't fix it by the summer... I wish it just stalled permanently, so that I could properly diagnose the problem.
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Stan,
The problem was at the alarm box connector. Is your lock cylinder vertical (disarmed) or horizontal (armed)?
In my opinion, you should free the lock with lubricant, arm the alarm system, attempt to start the car. If the car starts, then a) the box is dead or b) somebody has rewired something.
Arthur
The problem was at the alarm box connector. Is your lock cylinder vertical (disarmed) or horizontal (armed)?
In my opinion, you should free the lock with lubricant, arm the alarm system, attempt to start the car. If the car starts, then a) the box is dead or b) somebody has rewired something.
Arthur
#12
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Arthur, the cylinder lock slit is horizontal, so unless the whole cylinder was mounted the other way, it is armed! It migt have been rewired though. I suspect the system was rewired a long time ago, and I might have to look for extra wiring. Some poor soldering might be the key to my INTERMITTENT stalling problem.
Thanks
Thanks
#13
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This was my ordeal, too painful to type
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ght=alternator
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ght=alternator
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ght=alternator
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ght=alternator
#14
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I tried disconnecting the alarm box using the procedure from Clark's Garage. The car did NOT start, but cranked, with the two jumper wires connected. The alternator light kept blinking while cranking.
Actually, I couldn't follow the procedure exactly, because there were no black/white strap nor yellow/red strap wires in the harness. I connected terminals 1 and 4; 7 and 8, according to the picture below (view towards the alarm box):
Did I connect it OK?
The alarm box is labelled:
5AA003722-00
911.637.104.00
Actually, I couldn't follow the procedure exactly, because there were no black/white strap nor yellow/red strap wires in the harness. I connected terminals 1 and 4; 7 and 8, according to the picture below (view towards the alarm box):
Did I connect it OK?
The alarm box is labelled:
5AA003722-00
911.637.104.00
Last edited by Stan944; 01-26-2005 at 05:51 PM.
#15
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...and I was wondering if someone had the electrical schematics of what's inside the alarm box? Or at least info on what gets connected/disconnected when the alarm is (de)activated.
I know the green wire goes to the ignition coil. Is it the input or the output signal for the alarm box? Is it OK just to disconnect the green wire from the alarm box?
Thanks, Stan
I know the green wire goes to the ignition coil. Is it the input or the output signal for the alarm box? Is it OK just to disconnect the green wire from the alarm box?
Thanks, Stan