johnny1423

Hi all!!!
I knew it when i bought it....but now its hitting me.
The # 2 exhaust manifold has one of the two bolts broken off up in the head.
Of course this causes a lot of noisy leaking exhaust until the car gets hot(i guess the parts expand and sort of seal the leak.You can see the gasket flap in there.
I went to a good muffler shop and they would not even try.
My dealer says the engine must be raised, the entire manifold removed and then the remaining bolt could be tapped.6 hours labor and a $2 bolt!!!
Anyone have any other ideas?????
Thanks!!!!!!

Yabo

Oh this was a fun job... Do you have a dremel? are they flush with the head, or ar are they inset much?

Yabo

If they are flush or pretty close... https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-944-951-968-forum/142890-was-broken-exhaust-studs-now-i-got-them-out-check-it-out.html

johnny1423

only one of the 2 bolts is broken ....and no..its not flush...its up in there!!!

Yabo

have you taken off the manifold yet? Its hard to tell if its far up in there with the manifold on . its ok if its far up in the manifold port, but pretty close to flush with the head itself. SOrry just trying all the possiblities..

Peckster

I would not try to repair this yourself unless you have experience, and you'll have to get it fixed asap before you break the remaining bolt.

It's all part of the Porsche experience!

This is a good reminder why a PPI will more than pay for itself. You get a list of things that need to be done and what it will cost, then show it to the seller.

marksportcts

Your dealer must be stupid. Why raise the motor when you can just pull the head off the engine? We assume you have a 944, not an early 928.

Dave951M

No need to pull the head unless you just want to do it. Remove the manifold. Get a Dremel with a diamond point bit. Get a good dimple going with the Dremel. Switch to a right angle drill. I got the attachment at the local hardware store for $15, mounted it on a spare VSR 3/8 drill. Consult the chart for the proper size drill bit. then go one size larger. That helps get the meat of the EZ out biting the screw. You might have to shorten the drill bit if you don't have enough room, use a grinder for that. Drill the broken stud ALL THE WAY THROUGH!! I can't emphasize that enough. Skip that part and I'll flame you when you post back about how to remove broken EZ outs After drilling all the way through the stud, shoot some PB Blast through hole into the back of the stud. Take a break, have a smoke, whatever. Repeat PB step. Take another break for a couple minutes. Put the EZ out in the hole and remove the stud. This method works nearly every time I've used it whether on Porsches or Italian stuff. Don't force the EZ out, if it doesn't get the stud moving, drill out the hole in the stud another size larger, repeat the PB steps. Drilling all the way through relieves some of the internal stress in the stud that is keeping it frozen in the head. Again, there is no need to remove the head unless you get off on disassembling your car unecessarily. HTH

Granite 944

If you decide to use the easy out method (which I'm not saying is a bad idea, unless you've never done it), you'd better know exactly how to size it, drill it without oversizing the hole and use them properly, and as Dave said DON'T FORCE IT, or you'll be back asking how to remove a broken easy out, and then the fun REALLY begins. If you can get heat around the area while your trying to remove it, would be of help also.

Charlotte944

I have to echo what Dave951M said, but with a word of caution:

I had this exact same problem with my 951. The stud was broken off just below the flange surface, and I did not have the proper tools.

After much aggravation I decided to pull the head. After the head was off I drilled the bolt and inserted an extractor. Problem was the extractor was too small and I snapped it off in the stud.

At that point I had to take the head to a machine shop. $230.00 to remove the broken stud, install new valve guides, install new valve seals (they come in the head gasket kit), plus all of the "normal" stuff a good machine shop does.

awilson40

Laugh if you will...but I fabricated a bridge clamp to use the #3 stud to
clamp both exhaust flanges.
I'll fix it correctly should I ever need to remove the head.

blackcube

I did the same thing to my 1983 NA in 1989. I broke the EZ-Out off in the head while the head was on the car. After pulling the head, a local machine shop milled the stud-EZ Out combo out of the head, welded the head, surfaced it and then drilled and tapped the head for a new stud. Over 200k miles later, the repair has held. I think I paid around $200 back then, plus head gasket set, new belts and rollers, new studs and nuts, etc. I always intended to replace the head on my next overhaul which hasn't happened yet.

Dave951M

In using the EZ out method, I strongly urge going one more size up on the drill. The reason is that the standard drill called for will put the torque closer to the tip of the EZ out and that's where it breaks. By going larger on the drill (but don't get carried away) you move further back on the stronger section of the EZ out. I had two broken exhaust studs on my 951. I didn't even fully remove the headers. I just got them loose from the head, swung them out of the way and did exactly what I just outlined. The whole procedure took about 3 hours, start to finish. Now compare that to removing the t belt, balance belt, cam carrier, head, etc..... Your choice.